joe90

Heat from your house is getting into the loft by the sounds of it and the moisture is condensing on the cold roofing felt, the loft should have adequate ventilation (from outside) to remove any moisture that is there. I have come across loads of lofts where the insulation is sodden and the felt running with water. Definitely ask your builder why this is happening (then post that here so we can see if it’s BS ?‍♂️.)

yes.

I still think ground screws would be best for you/that location with insulated timber timber floor. Any ground heave from flood or roots will have minimal impact.( I prefer woodwork to concrete/bricklaying). I think the cost is worth the lack of hard graft shifting concrete etc, just wind them in to the level you want ?.

thats what I described before, but they should go under the felt otherwise the same pooling behind the facia will occur.

Trust you to notice that.........you pervert?

When I opened my account with the local builders merchant I told him what I predicted to spend and that my main contractor also had an account with them which would supply his input for our job, the manager agreed I could have the same discount as my builder, result ?

With the facia that high the felt has no slope at the bottom, so any rainwater/condensation will pool and maybe find nail holes which will give damp in the house. So I think your only options are 1/ lower facia board, 2/ cut some off the top of the facia board 3/ take off several rows of tiles and battens and add tapered wedges to the rafters under the felt to line up better with the facia. With this option trial and error will give the right “wedge”. just spotted @JFDIY idea above about slates instead of short first row of tile, worth a try (but it won’t cure pooling on the felt)

Ah, didn’t realise they were plain tiles, different “fish” to other tiles (double lap like slates).

Duh! I can’t open those pics?

@sheepie you say the founds are in, does that include the slab, if not put yours in lower to accommodate more insulation. DIY UFH is easier than radiator plumbing IMO. loads of advise here.

Some people/roofers/builders do this but I think is does not look right myself. You may be able to double up the first batten so the angle is shared with two rows of tiles. Many houses in Bristol (council house estates) did this, don’t know why but it looks ok.

Which fixing did you use in the end.?

Frankly I had not heard of corfix so looked it up, I am impressed........https://www.corefixed.com

Mine is running more in this cold snap, but yet to see it defrosting ?

Is the house newly finished?, if it is I believe it will take quite a while for the fabric to heat up, luckily our was finished at the end of winter so spring temps helped but I ran the UFH for weeks (on immersions ?) to get it up to temp, then I got the ASHP working.

No idea ?‍♂️You need to ask the builder what it is so you know for future reference (and get him to fit a lid).

Just make sure the plasterboard (should be 12.5mm) is the same as the blank length of the fixing or they won’t work. I never had a setting tool, just a spanner type thing that stopped the fixing from spinning.

I agree with your assumption, as I was reading it, “torn felt” ran through my mind before I had finished. Good job it’s newlok as you said, easy to remove/replace slates/tiles.

but unless your building a house to sell on it’s not a business. I installed MVHR for quality of life, I have a tv because I like it and can afford it. I don’t have granite worktops because I think they are massively overpriced (and not that easy to look after/based on kitchen installation fir years and hearing from customers). I am always surprised by people having new range Rovers on the drive but living in a pokey terraced house. I would rather have a detached nice house and drive an old Merc (? oh I do). It’s all about life’s choices not necessarily justification.

Oh yes, after building fir many years I can do everything perfectly now, I just can’t physically do it anymore ?‍♂️

Well done, beautiful job, you should be proud of yourself. Love the comment about not being able to do the work of two 21 year olds ?, wait till you get to my age!.

I agree with @Nickfromwales about the self tapping ones, glueing into plasterboard has never worked for me, when I have used them I use wood screws instead of the self tappers supplied as they have turned themselves out breaking the plasterboard then you have a a lager hole to deal with.

After using nearly all types on offer over the years I still say the hollow wall anchors I posted above are the best, gives you four metal lugs that act as a rivet to the plasterboard that gives a permanent threaded fixing. gives an example of how they work https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/the-only-drywall-anchor-you-should-ever-use/

I don’t believe my stove gets anywhere near those temps, but in a well insulated house it does not run fir more than a couple of hours at a time.

I prefer these for plasterboard https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hollow-wall-anchors-8-16mm-m5-x-52mm-10-pack just make sure it’s not in a stud, but if it is then just use a wood screw ?