joe90

I don’t think so, we stood by our guns and didn’t let the EU bully us, let them think we didn’t mind having no deal (even if we did really) good negotiating skills IMO.

I am not sure you need a structural engineer, building regs and info from here should suffice I recon. I designed my own MVHR instal, it’s not rocket science and fairly straightforward, quite a few of us has done the same. Enjoy your reading and bring on those questions.

(Gets me out of doing the veg fir tomorrow ?) been there. Done that. You are not on your own with this crowd, lots of very useful Advise and opinion, don’t be afraid to ask, we are a friendly bunch ?

Welcome, a tame architectural technician in our forum, great, I am sure you will be welcomed by others.

Correct No.

@bradders3109 at the risk of upsetting someone, I am not a fan of architects and the only reason I employed one was to convert my pencil drawings to CAD and add annotations in “building speak”. He managed to cock that up and he had to do it 3 times. I designed my house and I did it within budget!!,. You might be better off with an architectural technician, they do all the drawings as you want them (and may be cheaper).

He should know!!! If not people here will tell you. (As per above).

I did, as suggested by the welsh dragon, why would you not, costs pennies. I did not use a decoupling mat but I cut into the screed (a little) across doorways so if a crack was going to happen I created a weak point for it to happen exactly where the tiles stop/change . Rather than grout this tile join I used flexible mastic to cope with any movement. (Or I will do when I get round to my “to do list” ?‍♂️).

Welcome to THE self build forum. If 9” are not necessary structurally then I agree with @PeterW, 140mm would save money/blocks and give you more room or insulation. We love questions so bring it on ?

We are yet to see if that is true, however, the public voted which way they wanted it. As I have said many times, I had no problem with the common market as was, but objected to the “United States of Europe “

Yes, having voted leave I am pleased a deal appears to be sorted, just waiting now for “captain hindsight” and “seaweed” to tell us it’s not good ?.

I agree with the above, it’s petty the neighbour won’t do the pointing, offer to pay the builder direct to do that and do your guttering. Makes perfect sense for all the work to be done at one hit, I am sure the builder would agree.

I wonder how it was originally jointed, ally to copper?, perhaps you can get that bit out and try again, do you have immersion backup for Christmas?

I also don’t do a legionella cycle due to not one single case of the disease in domestic properties (this info from a previous thread ).

I always have had a hankering to try making my own stained glass, perhaps nightschool or something when we return to normal (whatever that is ?).

Yes that would be fine, flat bit first then drill pilot hole, or pilot drill then countersink to 5mm deep.

I like @Gav_P doors using plugs over recessed screws but original type doors just used nails, personally if you can’t plug after screws I would use lost head nails https://www.toolstation.com/lost-head-nail-pack but glue as well as the nails are a bit short to hold in those boards.

Yup, I wanted to drain my rain water to a local ditch after explaining clay won’t work with a soakaway and my BCO agreed (common sense).

There is no wrong way, just make it open the way you want!, if the ledges are on the same side as the door stops just make them a little shorter like @Gav_P SIMPLES. Try not to complicate things.

Our relative humidity is about the same, I have an enthalpy unit and it won’t reduce indoor humidity (shame), as per @PeterW you need industrial units like I did after plastering to get it down.

All the above makes sense, but I still can’t work out what that random vertical copper pipe is for that the valve is balanced on?

? that’s me alright, thanks

I agree with @ProDave above, so is your bill £5100 and he is deducting £600 till the snagging is done?, if that’s the case it seems fairly resonable .IMO.

I fancied using ASHP water as it’s COP means cheaper to run than direct electricity. can you post the controls stuff Peter as Googling “Shelly” didn’t work (for me?).