joe90

??

So did we as a site supply but it does not mean it’s habitable (tho it might be wise to turn it off and say it’s not connected yet!)

Ha, you’ve not been there, even squatters would turn their nose up at his dungeon.

Make sure you have a site notice on the gate cus when they fall down your temporary stairs or fall over all your crap everywhere you are covered ????

@pocster, (I think I have a buyer fir you, dont forget my 10% ?)

Unless they are frozen, then we can ?

Yes. Planners don’t like building forward of an existing build. How close is your side wall to your boundary/neighbours wall?. Your plans show windows on the first floor to the neighbours side!. Extending your side house wall next to your neighbour may be difficult IF you can get planning anyway.

I wonder where you could buy some glazing for a flat roof, perhaps you could even walk on it ?

I always tell people to go by reputation, not flash adverts, find a proper GRP roofer and ask for customers who have had work done by them and are willing to get a call from you.

Nothing wrong with the lantern as long as it’s on a 150mm minimal upstand (and a waterproof roof ?).

7 meters.

Can’t see your waste pipe? Is that boxing in plasterboard?, personally I would cut into that, put a strap boss as @PeterW says above wherever you can closer to the floor. What’s going in that space between cabinet and boxing in?.

Do I need a licence or permission? Not usually. Anyone is allowed to extract up to 20,000 litres per day without a licence or a charge. If you do want to extract more than this, you will have to get an abstraction licence from the Environment Agency.

I hate flat roofs myself but have done quite a few but in GRP (my favourite flavour). I always put a slight fall on a flat roof and never had one problem. Those upstands, tiles and quality of work is crap IMO (SORRY).

Immersion heaters are usually 3kW (I have two in my tank as backup either together or separately) showers go up to about 10kW.

@amavadia can you post a pic of the stack or is it fully enclosed?

I would contest that, our planners tried to tell us our residential/curtilage was minimal but our deeds showed different and I challenged them to come up with their evidence (fir which they had none) and I could provide evidence that the whole area was in fact garden, they backed down. (Unless your planning permission specifically specifies that). I found many challenges on line where councils tried to dictate curtilage. Our old cess pit was in our field outside the garden.

@NandM why not post some drawings (freehand will do) I am sure you will get some new ideas to think of.

Yes, plant must be within 30m of pumping vehicle.

I believe (but can’t find a link to) that a concrete slab should be poured over the pipework and the pipe in pea gravel so the weight of a vehicle is taken by the surrounding ground and not the pipe. In my drive I did not bother but only because it was under where cars were parked and it was quite deep. My builder told me he has seen pipework driven over above ground with no damage, it’s quite strong.

I renovated a cottage in Shropshire, miles from the coast but digging down I came to sand (the Shropshire plain used to be underwater decades ago apparently), the BCO asked me to just put some steel mesh in the footings, job done.

Or the house ?????.

A local drainage contractor told me to trench min 200mm wide, 100mm of drainage stone, perforated pipe on this and fill above with same drainage stone, topped with membrane and topsoil if required. Theory being clay silt will settle to the bottom of the stone before filling the pipe, should last many years (this is what he does round here and been in business for many years).

I too have been told that the membrane will clog faster in clay like I have.

+1 on warmstar.