joe90

Ah, if you have architrave fitted that’s awkward as these type of hinges are usually fitted “on the same plane”. So you either need to cut out a section of architrave fir each hinge or!,,,, you could do like this BUT the countersink in the hinges on the frame side fir the screws will be on the wrong side so you will need to carefully countersink the hinges WITHOUT going right through ?

Yes, dry ridges are usually like this.....

Yes, just been looking, photos show high level windows in frosted glass. I think you need to decide if you would ever want to extend the same, if so you need to object (IMO). I installed windows in a property much the same on the boundary but it was a neighbours drive so not a problem.

Block plan shows 200mm away from boundary.

Nice, right, prop the door in the opening with gaps as required and fix hinges, simples ?

Probably has some inhibitor in it.

@zoothorn 3 temporary scrap pieces of door stop (or anything else) tacked onto frame where hinges and catch will be, something on the floor to give required gap. What hinges are you using?

Yes good idea re gap, I hate sticky doors and people tend to forget about paint thickness. Personally I like to hang the door including the catch first then apply the stops to fit the door exactly.

Glad it’s a bit better for you, when I did up my first nearly derelict house (no heating at all and NO insulation) many decades ago I used to put a fan heater on an old clockwork cooker timer (that could take the load) as my alarm clock on the floor next to the bed, I would wake to the “clunk” as the timer switched the fan heater on and dozed as the room warmed up. Panel heaters with timers are fairly cheap on Ebay so might help fir these very cold nights.

Welcome to THE self build forum, lots of knowledge and ideas from those that are doing it or who have done it recently, were a friendly crowd so ask away (remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking ?)

I have LVT over electric mat heating within a thin adhesive but no insulation, floor stat is set to 25’ to stop floor/LVT overheating. I don’t want to stop the heat getting to the LVT but it is limited.

Before now I have strapped a piece of 4x2 to the top of a ladder and tucked it over the ridge and back end of ladder on a scaffold tower. I know ladders are not supposed to be used this way (I am only 9 stone) but it’s worked for me (but i ignore H@S ).

Yes, as Peter says, release those ridge tiles and have a proper look. When our builder was slating our roof he tapped each slate with his hammer before he fixed them, when i asked he said sometimes the slate has been stressed and will crack later (frost/heat) so a tap with the hammer will break them before they are fixed.

I remember the GBF where Tony heated his UFH with one of these elements and had to put an “old” bulb in the guest bedroom to heat it for a family member (if I remember correctly ?).

Post the planning link, we need more info.

Make the flex short enough so it does not catch on anything / trip hazard.

Easy peesy to put the element in, they have a rubber o ring to make water tight so hand tight then a “tweet” with a spanner but don’t overtighten.

If I remember correctly 70w, you can get thermostat controlled ones as well .

Yes, in fact I had to change the elements to lower wattage as someone scalded themselves in the guest bathroom ? My ASHP heats water to 48’ only (which is hotter than it sounds when doing the washing up!). Yes, the COP of the ASHP but as we had no UFH upstairs the work/grief was not worth it for the short time they are on and only in winter (IMO).

I went electric with low wattage elements, timer . Easy peesy

Vented tumble driers waste their heat to the outside, condensing driers keep the heat within the house and (most) of the moisture condenses out to a container/drain.

I second @Onoff method of batten and large circular hole cutter, done this loads of times very successfully.

personally I do not like drying clothes indoors, I have seen so much damage done by this being done (mould, sagging ceilings) . However some here dry clothes in a room with an extract to the MVHR and they say it works well!

I concur, I didn’t put an extract in the airing cupboard, it’s central to the house so any (minimal) heat that escapes warms the upstairs (in fact SWMBO says the airing cupboard is not warm enough ?).

for that reason I used a recirculating hood with charcoal filters and the extract 2 mtrs away. Works well Aint going to happen Why, I just made sure 13amp sockets were in position for a small portable electric rad if required (and they haven’t).