joe90

Not sure what you mean by this, imo gravel is perfect especially around the boot sink (great idea) my build was surrounded by gravel (crushed granite) because of a high water table and worked perfectly (and looked good).

Despite being an avid DIY er and will tackle anything I hate painting and with my build I subbed that out. On the subject of northern speak……

Like @Conor I have two, a de Walt (mains) which is brilliant and does almost anything and a cheap Titan 5j for the few big jobs. Both have seen a whole house build, will probably get rid of the Titan now I have no use for it. I also have a de Walt cordless for general use and again is brilliant https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-d25033k-gb-2-5kg-electric-sds-plus-hammer-drill-240v/564fu

I was lucky that a local road next to my build was planed and relayed and got a good deal on the planings. I found them good, was over previous fairly solid ground, pushed about with the JCB and compacted with a big diesel roller, never moved but depends on how the edges are dealt with I guess.

On a similar theme, a nephew of mine got a roofer to repair a leak but found extensive rot and a quote for £20k for a new cut roof. Said roofer has done good work for my nephew before and he took my nephew up on the scaffold to show him the extensive damage he found. As my nephew knows nothing of building and prices he contacted me. Knowing the size of the roof and lead work etc required I think it was a reasonable quote. On top of this the roofer could do the work immediately (before winter sets in) and has a good reputation locally and with my nephew. It can be a nightmare out there regarding trades people and when I was working ALL my work was from recommendations which IMO is the best way to pick trades people.

Interesting article on the French straw house which proves it can be done but was suprised to see internal plaster was gypsum.

I was thinking ridged concrete (an old neighbour of mine with a steep drive did this to good effect).

Personally and in my garage I use metal back boxes and plastic conduit to at least head height, some might say it’s OTT but it looks so much neater… 🤷‍♂️

If using a ramp rather this steps then I would want a rough surface for shoe grip.

Small bales typically used are 18” so only 2” more then my brick and block walls with 200mm filled cavity. My point was people fear straw as flammable ( it’s only a problem during the build with bits of loose straw lying about. A compressed bale is a bit like a telephone directory, difficult to set fire too and once lime rendered inside and out bomb proof). Straw bale is used in two basic styles of construction: “Nebraska”-style structures, which resemble Southwestern adobe-style architecture and use the straw for structural support; and post-and-beam construction, with straw-bale infill for insulation. Some structures incorporate both of these styles. Not sure of the U value of straw but at 18” it must be pretty good. mind you I changed my mind and built in brick and block in the end, mostly because at my age I paid a main contractor to do the heavy work 🤷‍♂️

Frankly it’s only to stop sideways motion or uplift so need (IMO) to go overboard, screws and rawlplugs will suffice IMO. how are fixings the lintels in place?

The lime render turns into limestone. There was a picture on the internet some years ago after the California fires and the only thing left standing were the walls of a straw bale house. Straw is an excellent recycled material. Just needs to be kept dry whilst building (hence my plan to create a scaffold and clad shell during the build).

I don’t buy that block as difficult to get airtight, it’s down to attention of detail (I don’t like membranes and tapes) I looked at loads of different build types (from straw to sips) and ended up with brick and block with 200mm cavity and rockwall batts.

Can I ask why you want to run it up through the slab? I ran mine through the wall, used ordinary un insulated pipes, insulated with thick insulation and wrapped in tape self amalgamating , much cheaper (and shorter straight through the wall).

I have drilled into and fixed with rawlplugs into concrete lintels many times, just try to avoid the steel.

To join a cable I would solder the wires, use heat shrink tubes on each wire and also total external and wrap in tape self amalgamating.

I guess it depends on how steep the ramp will be as slipping might be a proboem 🤷‍♂️

I too was keen on straw bale a few years ago but didn’t go ahead with that for various reasons, yes wind driven rain will be a real problem up there in my opinion. Straw bale started in dry America mostly. I was going to build a scaffold shell to build mine in so it was rain protected until the lime render was completed,I went with brick and block in the end as it was more acceptable to mainstream building methods.

Yes my plant cupboard was In the downstairs cloakroom with a washing machine In it as well.

Well spotted. Could be dangerous if used like that (could throw the workpiece at the user).

I feel strongly about the Grenfell situation, I don’t believe it was about principle designers it was about producers being allowed (wrongly) to make up their own safety conclusions. BCO.s and building regs should be controlling this IMO.

Brilliant (cheap) idea

I have no idea what bounce figure I have but cannot detect any bounce at all simply by calculating for 600mm centres but installing at 400mm.

I once had a skip lorry wheelie, several of us hanging on the bumper, it was full of wet soil/clay, reason really was anti tip wheels (those behind the rear tyres) sunk in soft ground (wish I had taken a photo) managed to find a couple of sleepers under them to get it away.

Your point?