joe90

Yes I have some of those, damn usefull.

More than likely the water is entering where the pipes enter the manhole.

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This is why I always go full plans, no making it up as you go along. Good for you for checking and you need a serious chat with your builder.

@ProDave I love the “cat ramp” (I presume. ) could be a little more elegant tho 🤷‍♂️

Traditional use "They" is traditionally a third-person plural pronoun used to refer to groups of two or more people or things. Singular use "They" can also be used as a singular pronoun to refer to an individual person of unknown or nonbinary gender. This is called the "singular they".

Ground will always be damp, DPC needs to be continuous outside of any concrete. Can you dig up around the skylight and waterproof the outside of any concrete ?

I made some small guttering for a little outhouse here made from 32mm drainage pipe cut in half and glue gunned together, or a funnel glued there with a pipe attached 🤷‍♂️

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Really difficult to suggest a solution but might a little dam of silicone bead to stop the water tracking where you don’t want it then it should drip into a container or somewhere it won’t cause trouble. emoji was not meant to be sad but “what the feck do you do?”

However on these fittings it’s the olive that produces the seal, it annoys me (OCD) with people that put PTFE tape on all threads 🤷‍♂️

Yes, if the olive is not sitting right no end of tightening will help, use a jointing compound to lubricate the olive/nut junction.

We would have soon put her straight on that one 🤷‍♂️

I always fitted the velux to suit the tile/slates, much easier to input timbers where required .

+1, however I always went full plans as I didn’t want any surprises, I have even argued successfully with BCO,s on site if they tried to deviate from what was accepted originally.

Yes Yes i was told I needed an aborist report about an old hedge near my build by the planners but I contacted the councils own arborist and told him about the hedge and that I proposed an exclusion zone to machinery with sheep fencing and posts and he agreed it was sufficient, the planners didn’t like it but after I told them their own aborist agreed it they could not argue. money for old rope springs to mind

It has to be said also that selling a house with no upstairs heating might be more tricky (even if it’s not used!!!)

I put no heating upstairs but enough sockets in places to run oil radiators or heaters for the odd day or week they might be required. I could not even see the need for wired spurs for heaters as a 13 amp socket is sufficient. How many days a year would heating be required upstairs?

So you are guessing that the joists are at fault. Squeeky floorboards are just that and is usually fixed with driving nails in further after floorboards have shrunk over the years OR using additional screws. Why do you say that? The middle of the joist is the best place to drill holes. To strengthen the joists simply glue blocks tightly in the notches.

Welcome (if a bit late!!,,) any contributions welcome.

I had forks on my JCB, not used much but a godsend when I needed them.

I don’t know if I agree with “most of us on here as buildhubbers are the exceptions,” I certainly didn’t, I wanted enough space but affordable to run. I did this with plenty of insulation, airtight(ish) and a plain rectangle with a long face to south for max solar gain, with conservatory to magnify that gain (despite being told it would overheat, which I didn’t). .

Get it in writing (of any sort).

I too have come across similar, I am sure they are not all like that but quite a few.

From what’s been said this is not the case if it requires blowing to remove the water. Down in Devon lots of butle pipes are used for drinking troughs out in the open so I would just do 1 and 2. Even if it does freeze and break the pipe you will not loose water (till you turn it on next spring)