joe90

Well no, penetrating can’t occur on a party wall as both sides are “indoors “ but rising is obvious.

Felt trays at the eaves is always a good idea IMO, as the bottom tiles are not resting on a tile below something should be there to keep the tiles in line, either double battens or facia board plus eaves trays.

On a previous semi detached house I had for a short time damp appeared in the party wall and I traced the cause to a blocked rainwater drain which was actually the neighbours but on the boundary. I cleared the drain, removed said plaster, let it dry for a few weeks, replaced plaster and no more problems. See if you identify the cause (drains, soil above DPC etc.)

However, as I have mentioned before I designed my build and only had an SE to work on two steels required by BC, no Architect or technician and the build was exactly what I wanted. Perhaps I am lucky that I knew exactly what I wanted and I am sure not everyone can do that but assuming (as someone has said on here before regarding my build) that without an architects input mine was a boring box. (Which others have disagreed with).

Conditions C.2 Development is permitted by Class C subject to the condition that any window located on a roof slope forming a side elevation of the dwellinghouse shall be: (a) obscure-glazed; and (b) non-opening unless the parts of the window which can be opened are more than 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which the window is installed So yes, not PD unless a and b above, which in my mind is bonkers (unless there is a site line into a neighbours house !!,!). This would be my choice, you have abided of the rules (but can peel it off later,) if the neighbours can’t see it how can they complain, and if they do and planning get involved (which will take forever) say it fell off and I will get some more guv. https://www.amazon.co.uk/vgoltd-Frosted-Adhesive-Privacy-Bathroom/dp/

Not at all On what grounds can the neighbour complain 🤷‍♂️

If you cannot see into your neighbours then what the feck is the problem???.?

Yes I did, I had one extract vent left over so piped it to the top of the warm loft (as that is where any heat would rise too).

I get that, whilst I tend to “potter” in my car I find it difficult to potter on my Moto Guzzi 🏍️

Yes my glue (can’t remember the type) was pricey. Also I vacuumed each bit of floor just before laying down the glue to make sure it was dust free.

This presumes both cars have the same tyres, correct pressure etc etc, I think it’s a bit presumptuous. I have only rear ended a car once when I was 17, the brakes failed (it was an old banger) so I must be doing something right. I have done a speeding awareness course, Road I knew well and I knew that around the bend was a 30mm limit, well there was a copper with a speed gun and I had a smile on my face, TILL I got a speeding notice a week later, they changed the speed limit to 20 mph but my periphery vision did not pick up the change 🤷‍♂️.

The flooring supplier usually recommend/stipulate the best adhesive (ours did).

+1, I hate floating floors. Plus the glue will help transfer the heat better.

+1, your either too close or not 🤷‍♂️ (braking distances in the Highway Code are way out of date .)

Can you see into their house from the new skylights?

I too am not “qualified” to lay bricks, my recent garage was dead easy, kit form and looks good. Just another possibility to consider,

Welcome to THE forum for self building, plenty of good advise here from people that have done it (not trying to sell you stuff). What’s your preferred method of build?

Question @Gus Potter, what percentage of over engineering is applied to building structural calculations.? I did a job for a customer and the BC officer insisted on a huge timber support (which I and the customer thought was OTT). The customer was a plane designer and he told me they worked on 5% over what would break 🤯.

I wrapped mine in tape self amalgamating. BT use it for waterproofing cable joints. https://www.toolstation.com/self-amalgamating-repair-tape/p55262

I always line up velux,s with the roof tiles, never heard or seen tile and a half pan tiles 🤷‍♂️

I was arranging my daughters house insurance yesterday and was suprised to read that we had to confirm oil central heating was not used 🤷‍♂️

I use one of these, gives a good riven edge. https://www.toolstation.com/slate-cutter/p57659?store=PF&utm_

It sounds like you can retain the concrete for the inner leaf and use a different lintel for the outer leaf. @Gus Potter is your man as per his post above 👍

Right that’s a cavity catnic with brick outer support. However the drawings don’t show “how” it’s to be done. Are you using a builder? He should know.the new catnic is the full depth of the wall so no room to leave the concrete lintel in place plus it looks like it is currently supporting both inner and outer brick/block skins.

Depends what those concrete lintel are supporting? Roof? Floor? Whatever it is will need to be temporally supported if they are removed. I used concrete lintels in my new build (inner skin only, brick arch outer) perhaps you could post up the engineers drawing so we can see the detail better.