joe90

I did!!! My VAT chap spotted that my builder had made a mistake and he gave me back about a grand (£1000) and apologised. (I told you my builder was a good chap. )

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c9wryxyljglo#:~:text=The chairman of the HS2,frustration at the UK's regulations.

Shame it didn’t blow down in the storm!!!!

No,, that’s an in line washing machine/dishwasher 3/4” connector. Are you sure your machine came with a 1/2” ? Measure it.

Wot @Iceverge says above 👍.

Yes, get on to them.

Here is mine on a standard 3/4? Fitting

Ah, I misinterpreted your post. Can you check the paperwork to see if it’s mentioned, if not what model is it?

Washing machine connections I have always used are 3/4” not 1/2” 🤷‍♂️ https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-compression-washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x-3-4-/51231

I too built a pantry with sone shelves, some drawers, door racks, baskets for veg which works very well (I have no photos unfortunately

I guess so but I know ziltch about resin (is it hard wearing fir a plant room floor 🤷‍♂️)

Depends on what “look” you are after, I did “cottage” and quarry tile was perfect, however inside a plant room should be “fit for purpose” not “design statement”. 🤷‍♂️

I did my porch in quarry tiles and they looked fab and bomb proof Frankly any tile will do the same.

We build timber framed houses so why not? They seem to do it in the USA. I would guess the house builders know their market, what is cost effective and what sells so something must be stopping them. I do also think we in the UK are partial to brick (I know I am) or block as a “solid” house. IF I were to build again (which I am not) I think iwould build timber frame with brick skin.

Haven’t we all !!!!! It made me even more angry and intent on fighting them when my LPA rejected my application. Revenge was sweet when I won on appeal. You dont have to be confident with the council just prove them wrong 👍

Only pleased to help mate, I agree with you about injected DPC,.S, I would remove skirting both sides, depending on brick type or mortar used cut the softest one starting from the door frame, one foot at a time, slide in DPC membrane overlapping as much as possible and pack with slate if you have any or pack with mortar as best as possible, leave enough space to get the saw back in and carry on till you reach the wall. Labour intensive but best solution IMO. You might get a few bricks come loose but you can pack them back in as you go. Don’t try to do all of it in one go, let stuff go off before moving in too far to avoid settlement. (shame your not close I have loads of slate you could have 🤷‍♂️) let us know how you get on 👍

I used to do fixed price work simply because the customer needed certainty on their spending. However estimating is a hard thing to do and to be fair to myself I always put a (shit that didn’t work) caviet in. Rarely did a job go completely to plan so I can live with that. One of my last jobs before retiring had several “oh shit” moments and when I presented the bill the customer insisted on paying me more than quoted because they were very pleased with my work and didn’t try to charge more come the end.

I think that’s a brilliant site for a new build but I had to fight and even go to appeal for a replacement build…. (Bloody planners). The old orchard is non productive so almost brownfield 🤣 . We are short of housing in this country but planners don’t get it. I would find a good local planning consultant and get their take on it.

, I was right , new plaster up to mid height, and not all the way to the door frame (which is why your dotted line was vertical near the frame 🤷‍♂️). I will,put money on waterproof render is under that new plaster. Again if it were me I would inject or physically cut a DPC near floor height behind the skirting. (In a previous renovation I cut a DPC into a whole cottage with a brick hand saw one foot at a time slipping DPC membrane in as I went, took weeks but worked.) OOH I LIKE THE PLASTIC ZIPPY DOOR TO KEEP DUST OUT 👍

That would be my guess, damp rising above the previous “cure”. Houses should have a damp proof course because below ground is damp. I can’t see why a horizontal damp line on an internal wall could be caused by damp on an adjoining wall. Let’s see if others here have another theory.

I think the wall has previously been “cured” as I said above with waterproof render (but shows it’s not!!!,) it’s a shame it’s all decorated as any work will cause mess. Unless you want to hack plaster off you won’t know. I would look into either an Injected damp course or cut a physical one in. It would mean removing the skirting board but save lots of messy other work

But the wall is interior 🤷‍♂️ so both sides are internal?. With some damp proofing plaster was removed up to approx 1m and replaced with waterproof render. You don’t mention the other side of this internal wall..

Very often riding damp was “cured” by waterproof render from ground to 1 m high. Has this been applied in the past which might explain why “damp” shows above this line. Alternatively is it damp or stain?

Yes I would ask them what planning policy was broken? So slabs not allowed but a lawn acceptable 🤷‍♂️

Not as an electrician but as a builder some laughed at the level of detail of my quotes but I hate ambiguity and it only leads to arguments. Never had a single problem with a customer (unless they were a dickhead)).