Russell griffiths

Chuck one end back down the loft hatch, then chuck it down the stairs. then chuck it out the front door. You will need to be fairly violently with it, having fitted 100’s of metres of this you will struggle to kink it. Mark your plenum location and run a length from there back to the manifold you will be surprised how quickly 150m disappears why did you buy 150m 50m rolls are a pain🤣🤣

If it’s a timberframe house, then why add icf, I’ve built in icf so nothing against it. I just cannot see the point in mixing building types, especially when one is light and the other very heavy. Ive also renovated a timberframe house. The easiest thing to do is remove every single sheet of plasterboard, sort out the insulation, beef up the frame if needed, re wire, re plumb, then re board and plaster. Its better to rip it all back to bare bones than fanny about trying to get one bit good at a time, you end up with a miss match of old and new and bits that still are not good enough.

Pvcu trim comes in long lengths and various widths, won’t need painting, get it to match the colour of the window, or just white. Stick with some sort of no nails.

i used this company, bent and powder coated to my design cheaper than I thought.

Why. After you have built whatever you are building you will find that fat or thin mullions is something that was not important, but a good quality airtight good u value window is more important. I spent days mocking up dummy frames to see how thick they would look, our sliding door has double the frame compared to the windows, now there in I never notice the difference, but I do notice how airtight they are and how the keep the heat in or out.

If you are selling next year then it’s not worth it, stick £20 extra on the gas bill and get it sold.

Internal wall or external why not buy a door with a side light already fitted as one unit. What is that wall holding up, as no lintel in drawing.

I looked into them 5 years ago and couldn’t find anything to put in the plus column, so the got dismissed.

I think you should have looked into it a bit more, disregarding a product because a couple of people on a tv programme made a hash of it, isn’t really a good measure of a product, the people involved in that show shouldn’t really have been allowed anywhere near it. Silly old lady and her neighbour helping, yea that’s going to work. 🤣🤣

Don’t do the plastering course, you will not be doing this yourself, same for the rendering. Things you can do as a keen diy’er demolition level site set out dig foundation, or lay insulated slab lay drains build icf walls. Fit roof trusses fit facia soffit fit roofing guttering fitting windows first fix plumbing electrics you can do a bit if you find a nice electrician to help fitting insulation plaster boarding fitting skirting and architrave fitting doors fitting kitchen decorating Tiling second fix plumbing. things you won’t be doing laying floor slab laying screed plastering rendering crack on bud, I wish I was 27 again.

I think your missing the point a bit, buy the howdens staircase, build a plywood box to fit under it to get your height, then put it on Facebook at the end and get £100 back for it. If you need winders just build them out of ply and chuck it on the bonfire in a years time.

Cannot see anything in that video that isn’t available almost everywhere, are you talking about a truss clip, this sits under a truss and nails in the side. Or there’s something called a triple grip, this nails to the side of a joist and down to a wall plate. Do a pic of what hat you want to do.

Check with your supplier, mine sat out in all weather until the roof went on, probably 6-8 weeks, I believe it’s all waterproof glue like a version of D4 glue on steroids.

Spell checking bloody iPad. Its not a metro beam. It’s a kerto beam, basically laminated plywood cut into a solid timber profile so just like your 9x2 or 225x 48. Whatever size your after, your joist manufactures should do them.

Don’t bother. I read your other post, for such a small amount of blockwork your heat loss from a regular joint to a thin joint is so small it’s not worth even entertaining the idea.

The big problem with fitting the ledger board before the pour is the braces for the icf, if the ledger board is in the way it’s a right pain to fix the bracing. If your heights and design allows it to be fitted first then that’s what I would do. After that go for top hanging the joists, no hangers needed so money to save, and the sit really flat, just get the design done around that because there will be extra blocking between the joists to prevent sideways twisting. You will also also need some very very straight timber for the ledger board. i would use a metro beam from the joist manufacturer for them, and tell them if there not straight you will not accept them.

Oak or pine, I would never fit oak before plastering, but if pine then prime them and undercoat and chuck them in.

Would you not be better off (expletive deleted)ing of those gash saniflow and gravity feed to a proper twin pump station, that can handle pumping turds without blending it up into a poopie smoothie. 💩🥤

Cut the fence both sides of the stump, chop stump out some how, or get a stump grinder in. Then go and buy a new 10m roll of fence and knit it in to the original chain link, it’s fairly easy if you look at how it’s made. If you go this way, come back here and I will talk you through it.

Talk to Andrew Jones ,THE VAT MAN look him up on Facebook.

Why would it need the A393, why not just tie it up in 10mm bar. How does the cost of loose bar compare to sheet ?? is it still just based on per tonne price or is sheet a premium price??

Why are you sourcing mesh from a builders merchants. Go straight to a steel mesh supplier. Total construction supplies in the west maids did mine, 40% cheaper than a merchants.

Leave the screed alone, adding any heat in my opinion is asking for trouble, get all the doors and windows open and let the breeze do its thing, trying to rush drying it is a recipe for problems later. If you needed it dry faster faster you should have used a faster drying product. It is what it is, get on with something else.

As far as I’m aware, that design alone will be far too bouncy, and will rely on a substantial glass balustrade and glass handrail structure to give it the strength needed.

Wood is a fairly good insulator , don’t make that job more complicated than it needs to be. Just get that ledger board bolted on solid.