Russell griffiths

I think you need to stop and start a new thread on how to fix everything there. in your original post it was pointed out the poor design and cold bridge, as I thought you had already built this I didn’t bother pushing it. now seeing that picture it shows the cold bridge is still there and you are in a position to fix it. and being that the block has just cracked it will give you chance to fix that bit as well your door needs to sit on a layer of some form of insulation, you then need insulation up the front insulating the front and leaving the doors sitting on that block work you are asking to have a drippy wet internal cill. take a wider angle picture or a drawing showing your external insulation added.

Didn’t look at the cill. do you need a drainage channel, is there not a porch roof or something above the door, I would only have the channel if you think you will be getting a fair amount of water there.

Put the drill back in and chew the rawl plug up. go and buy a bigger better quality plug. look at the fisher fixing ones.

Yep that works.

I noticed this post earlier but didn’t want to comment in case it came over too negative john is right in your cold bridge. TBH that is a terrible design and you will suffer with bad condensation on the steel and the bottom of the glass. look at johns latest post and try and relate that to the rest of the design. anywhere you have a path for cold to come into contact with warm will be a place for condensation to form. you need to isolate all cold parts of the build, foundations, exterior walls, roof junctions.

My norrsken ones are 1500 high.

Foot traffic do nothing vehicle traffic dig down both sides and cover with 100mm concrete capping, ensuring its wide enough to spread the load.

In my mind the epdm must lap over the parapets completely, not up the face, not half way across. then get a full aluminium/ steel powder coated capping that covers the parapet and down both sides. lift your cladding slightly higher so the aluminium/steel trim hangs lower or you will see a gap.

As mark said, it’s the wall thickness that will decide the weight 25 x25 x5mm. Will be heavier than 30x30x1mm wall thickness have a think how it’s being welded this might guide you choice of wall thickness. 1.5mm isn’t a bad place to start. remember we have seen your welding previously. 😂😂😂

The timber idea is terrible use something appropriate for sitting down there, compac foam or plastic angle. why can you not use the fibreglass angle. if your drawing is correct you already have a big thermal bridge from the blocks to the floor

Why not icf, very diy friendly, build it on your own apart from pour day. only block the road on pour day for 4-5 hours. or as I said previously I joist stick built and pumped in insulation. as far as I’m aware using sips you will need to add further insulation somewhere either external or internal, there’s many ways to do this, don’t get stuck on one method without exploring the others.

I have never seen a site with such bad access as @Patrick, he built on site using I joist and filled with blown in insulation. maybe he could share some pics.

That 600mm depth is nonsense, you can run drains as shallow as they need to be, as long as they are bedded correctly for the depth you are using and covered correctly to add the level of protection needed. if most places started at 600mm down as they leave the house you could be metres below ground by the time they reach the destination. you still haven’t provided a picture so we are all guessing here. pipe can sit 30-40 mm above the footing and enter the house via a hole left in the brickwork with a lintel over the top. your builder should know all this it’s fairly standard. put a picture up.

The thing with 68mm studwork that I don’t think people think about is running services putting a cable through the centre of a stud puts it only 30mm from the surface, which as far as I’m aware isn’t deep enough to keep it the recommended 50mm in to give it half a chance of not being screwed through. im aware it should be in a safe zone, but good practice and all that stuff. 68 for wardrobe walls and anything non important 89 for dividing walls.

Why was it not put in the tallest part of the loft. sorry but that’s fairly crap and needs moving over. Don’t just think about the insulation, what about the broken airtight layer, your asking for trouble with that void above the tank. im afraid I’m on building controls side. move the tank, re plumb it and fix the insulation.

I think this is why he needs to talk to bc, I’ve been told even a flat rail that makes up part of the railing could be used for a foothold. but this was something I did 5-6 years ago, so it could be a bit of common sense has come into play. I have a bc officer who has overlooked a couple of things on my current place as common sense says it’s fine.

Obviously ask building control, you might find a pragmatic one. height wise it needs to be 1100 high, but if you mount it on top of that wall, you must ensure the wall can’t be used as a step up, if you can step on it then you will need to measure your 1100 from the top of the wall not the roof height.

We need a picture you say above the foundation, that’s ok, but then you say above ground, that’s not ok. they can go above the foundation, but below floor level and below dpc level.

Look at the model of hinge and look up its load rating. you might need a heavier hinge I have a few 800wide 22thick finsa mdf which is very dense.

You need a TOPO survey with all your heights marked, otherwise it’s all just a rough guess. whats to stop you building up the far end of the garden.

MBC timberframe will do the slab and frame.

Set it up correctly for the house, the static doesn’t matter as it will be raised up on stands or blocks, you can also have a fair bit of pipe above ground for the static to get a good fall, install a rodding point at the static end and jobs a gooden. word of warning when connecting to the static make sure you strap the pipe up securely, I know a chap who used his toilet for months without knowing the pipe had come of, poo mountain under the caravan.

Go and talk to a plumber ask him if he would fit one. guarantee if you fit it he will say don’t call him when it fails. lots of things work, but is it right, is it a robust solution or just a rough way of doing something not for me I’m afraid, 50m of poo filled pipe is not something i would want to mess with. and I’ve spent many hours in poo filled trenches. I will leave it for you.

A macerator fitted behind the toilet will 100% not work in your situation distance is to far, pump not powerful enough. anybody that suggests it will work, keep there name and give them a call to fix it when all that shit is backed up and under pressure. you will need a sewage pumping chamber fitted outside the man cave so the pump pushes the turdy water away, rather than near the road and sucking. allow £1200 at least for the tank and pump. or if your clever you can make one out of concrete rings and get your own pump. if it’s only light use go for a single pump, some have two and some have a back up alarm.

I know nothing about how this crafting thing works. but owning various plots of land over the years I would say you should put your own track in. you can never be fully in charge of your destination if you are relying on access through another person’s property, it will always have some further implications one day.