Russell griffiths

I would think you need to look at how you are going to get a good finish If you want this as you finish concrete before the final floor covering goes down, tamping with a board will not be good enough, you will have to trowel the surface up when it has started to set, you will need to make up a board system so you can reach the whole way across to the centre, you will only know when it is the right time to trowel up by having a go and looking at the finish, if it's to wet have a cuppa and try it again in ten minutes.

It's fairly common to have 2 pack kitchens abroad and when you want a change you take the doors off and re,paint.

I was going to say make them out of mdf completely finish, and then take and have sprayed with 2 pack or epoxy. I built a dressmaking table for the wife and spayed it with epoxy primer and then 2 pack white. It has a better finish on it than furniture from a shop.

Any reason the pipe needs to be round? Why not a fibreglass rectangle 100 x32 would this fit in the batten area behind the cladding.

I would always tie it in case you get a stray end trying to pop up. As you walk on one sheet you may find you dip it down which causes the end to try and lift. as an aside I would really try and protect those doors before you struggle through with the sheets.

I was going to come up with a few ideas but it looks like the other lads have it covered. What i I would say backs up nick in that your pipe is a bit small I wouldn't rely on doing some calcs on water volume common sense would dictate that any foreign debris will block that in a second, I would definitely use a larger pipe.

Why?

I'm sort off not understanding what stage you are at. You said foundations where in, have you built up your brickwork to dampcourse level? Or are you casting a slab that a frame and brickwork sits on? Maybe be a bit more of an explanation of what you have done so far, with pics, will get a few more answers.

Sorry to state the obvious but your sips supplier will surely sell these.

Rectum damn near killed them.

Perfect that's what I was thinking. What i I would like to know is why shouldn't I do this? thanks dave.

On a hotel water system we did every threaded joint had a liquid thread lock compound on it, after hundreds of joints I don't remember having 1 single weap anywhere could be worth having a hunt around for a liquid sealer.

This is exactly how I had to do ours on our last house, square tap spout, asked the plumber who did the first fix and he said that is just how they are, take it off add a new piece of tape and re instal, I agree I doesn't seem right I even split a tap spout as I forced it around into the right position.

This @ProDave is exactly what I am thinking about. Can you say why you did this? Do you think the insulation on the stud/jamb surface will help with cold bridging from inside to out. Any pics.

I don't think having it underneath is a requirement I'm just thinking of how to leave a larger tolerance around the window, be it at the top bottom or wherever, just to allow for proper squaring up and height adjustment. Imagine a room with 4 windows where you would want the heads to all be exactly in line having 20 mm to play with could be a godsend when it come to lining them all up.

@MikeSharp01 can you elaborate on the fire regs, if the main structure is wood with a wooden window fitted how would having a 15 mm layer of insulation impede on fire regs? Are you you saying the 15mm layer could provide a gap for fire to pass through rather than a solid 190mm stud for arguments sake, assuming the window frame was fitted tight to the studs in the first place and no gap left and filled with expanding foam. What am I missing here.

If you laminated 3 layers instead of 2 you could stagger the joints more 3 x12mm ply fully glued would be massively strong. Many different ways to achieve this all probably perfectly strong enough as you say it isn't carrying a load.

I suppose it is @jack could this bottom piece be eps300 if it is dense enough to put under a foundation it should hold up a window.

So if a 25mm gap was left all around and a 15mm strip of insulation fixed to the timber structure that would still allow 10 mm for a sealing strip or expanding tape/ foam. Im just trying to think that any out of squareness or slight miss measure can be taken up in this packing area rather than trying to shoehorn in a window into a Miss made opening,

Why would you class it as structural @MikeSharp01 If any fixings pass through into the timber frame is it not just a packer or filler just the same as expanding foam would be ?

Ok so I have read various topics all covering problems between the sizes of the openings and the actual window sizes. so can anybody tell me why I can't do this. If I have a window that is 1000mm x 1000mm why can I not make the opening 1030mm x1030mm so 15mm clearance on all 4 sides, in this 15mm clearance I will have a sheet of 12mm rigid insulation cut down to the same width as the timber frame, that will be stuck to the rough opening prior to window instillation allowing for 3mm all around for final sealing. In in the event of slightly inaccurate rough opening or to allow for a bit out of square the insulation layer can be trimmed or tapered to take out any inaccuracies, and then sealed in the opening. Just a thought, tell me why this is either stupid or not necessary. Cheers.

I have looked at this and I interpreted to mean that the garage floor can be level and the house level but there must be a height difference between the two, the height difference can be made up with a slope rather than a step, i was proposing with mine to run the height difference out over about a 1m so it will look like a mini disabled ramp. And will not encroach on the garage space. Why would you want a garage floor that was not level.

If you buy a load @Vijay I will have it off you when you are finished.

Cedar would work well but it would be a completely different kettle of fish to your external variety,it would need to have a different moisture content as bringing your external cladding type timber indoors would make it do all weird and wonderful things.

You can't beat tapping a nail in and pulling the tape measure out. Personally I would save my money on a digital tape and buy one of these. And as Declan said a good metal tape not a cheap plastic thing.