Russell griffiths

Move into the double garage, add a bit of a wooden extension to it, put things like a woodburner in the extension to dry clothes and boots, small shower and kitchenette buy a shipping container for your furniture/ junk.

Yep.

I take those blue things out and cover in white ct1 and re fit, I’ve found they are not very airtight.

Don’t do it, it’s not needed. I put a small wall in the wrong place, crowbarring it up actually lifted chunks from the screed.

My usb sockets have no power, until you flick the switch for the 3 pin outlet, this then powers the usb as well.

Non load bearing stud walls go directly onto the screed, you fix the sole plate down with a no nails type thing. load bearing walls need to go down to either the block n beam designed for this or down through the block n beam onto a foundation below the floor. all depends on the loads the wall is carrying.

Definitely looks like a cavity problem to me freezing water between the cavity fill and inner and outer leaf pushing the outer brickwork apart.

With this photo of yours, why is there an independent I joists as a rafter, then a steel web posi joist as a ceiling/ floor joist when both jobs could be done with a fabricated truss.

Not a single birds mouth in my roof. all the wall plates were cut to the pitch angle of the roof. if you have a false ceiling, is it at actual ceiling height, or higher up. if at ceiling height then can you not use a standard truss. do you have a cross section drawing of the whole thing.

What’s the steel joist for in d35 if it’s just to support those rafter ends and it’s going to be visable and need boxing in, then that’s a terrible detail. my I joists fitted to a ledger board fitted to my icf blocks.

You’ve had it replaced properly, and now want to bodge it back up to look like the shite it did before. leave it alone. the large upstand is to allow for water bounce.

More details needed. is this just a hobby, one weekend a month, just in the summer, or full time work space 8-5 all year round, heating in the winter, cooling in the summer. lots of glass for natural light, or is that a no no for painting. what’s the access like to get to the build site, this could dictate a build method. what do you want it to look like blocks can’t be left bare so it will need either rendering or cladding in something. fire regs, how close to a boundary is it, this will dictate the outer finish options. and the budget, what do you actually want to spend.

Extension lead and a dehumidifier

Aluminium or aluminium clad timber. i doubt you will find a fully aluminium door with a very good u value. we used a timber door from norrsken that came in under £2000.

I killed them a long time ago 💥🔨🔫🪓🔪⚰️⚰️

Who designed it, what do they say. Imho it’s not normally done like that. pouring any concrete under something will result in the concrete dying and shrinking back from the slab you are trying to support. in the underpinning world you would normally pour the concrete and leave it 50-75mm low, you allow the concrete to go sufficiently hard and then fill the void with a structural dry packing, this dry pack is rammed in so firmly that you use a club hammer and block of timber to ram the mortar packing in, smashing and smashing untill it won’t take another trowel full. this dry pack doesn’t shrink on drying because it has such a low water content. the other method is a liquid structural grout, again the concrete is poured leaving a 10-15 mm gap, this gap is filled with a very liquid high strength grout, you will need to block the gap up with timber and leave a small opening to pour it into. all depends really on how crucial this floor is for supporting this steel post.

Standard brick saw with a diamond blade, your brickies will have one, it will only be 30-40 bricks needed across patio door. I cut a couple of thousand chunks of Cotswold stone, now that was a silly idea.

@G and J extend the insulation outwards, carry your brick work around the house, but when you get to the door area change to a brick slip cut from the facing bricks you are using. that way you can keep the brick look and increase the insulation amount with a 20mm thick brick slip over the face for the step area.

If you need any advice we used a good planning consultant in Cirencester pm me if you need them.

If it’s rusted shut, then pull the whole thing out of the ground, it will be mounted on top of a big pipe you can get your arm down to reach the tap.

Set the lintel and let it go off. the lintel will be set slightly further back than the face. get a piece of timber and set it level with the lintel and prop it from underneath, lay the blocks with a mortar bed angled inwards. Lay the blocks to a level until they sit down and touch the timber. allow to go off and remove timber. in this weather they can slide all over the place. @Canski might have some tricks up his sleeve. don’t forget your cavity tray and weep holes.

You need to brush up on this, zero rated for a new build, invoiced at zero by contractor, not 5% unless you are getting mixed up with a conversion not new build.

Who specified this insulation? and who said 100mm cavity, has it been built to the drawing.

just to confuse the situation a bit more I did this on an icf build. 500 kpa Xps.

Only if you use a contractor to supply and fit the materials, they then invoice you with zero rated vat.