Russell griffiths

I think this is the problem, if you haven’t chosen your top coat the go to system on bare plaster is cheap contract Matt thinned down. you then buy you top coat and it says not to do that. you sort of need to know the finish and work backwards.

I’ve got a couple of newly plastered walls that are not giving me good results when painting them. so I did a bit of YouTube research and then phoned 3 different paint manufacturers technical help lines. the old school method has always been to mist coat new plaster with a diluted cheap emulsion paint, normally contract Matt or wickes cheap white rubbish, dilute it down slap it on everything and then away you go with your chosen top colour coat. the problems seem to be occurring with the new breed of washable scrubbable matt paints, they give good cleaning properties but you get the trendy flat Matt finish that a lot of the in vogue colour schemes call for. these new paints will not stick properly to contract Matt and need an appropriate primer used as the mist coat. somebody was having these problems a while ago but I hadn’t really looked into it then. look into better mist coating or pick your top coat first and go from there. just don’t buy some cheap white and start slapping it on. hope that helps someone.

In England you can build under permitted development for planning and a building notice for building regs, 3 inspections maybe 4 and your ready for sign off. 🤪

Why use a 65 when a 150 is really not expensive, don’t be skimping on a couple of quid.

Internal sliding grilles. ugly but the only thing I know that works well.

I have two septic tanks and one treatment plant, we don’t use anything different than standard stuff you buy in Tesco, we try to use minimum bleach down the toilet. that is it.

It would be classed as a conversion not a new build. so building regs for conversion and vat rate for the same. if you apply to knock it down and replace it, then it will be a new dwelling. we used an excellent planning consultant in Cirencester, pm me if you want a number.

A lad on here called @Patrick bought his own machine and did it himself, he then sold the machine. have a look around there’s a second hand machine out there somewhere being used by self builders.

Only having a brief look but is your drawing scale way out. according to the drawing, the eps upstand and bit that pushes in is wider than the sips. however in your pictures the eps bit that inserts looks to be 50-75mm wide. im really not happy with that eps standing above the sips kit without it being fully waterproofed, any water getting through the aluminium flashing will be trapped against the sips kit.

Not in this country, but my house in oz was piled foundations with the short piles only 600mm deep before hitting rock, we drilled into the rock and resin fixed starter bars into the rock, the pile was then poured and anchored to the rock by the starter bars. as the house got wider each pile was slightly deeper as the rock sloped away. it’s very common over there to scrape the soil away and secure steel posts to the rock.

Some manufacturers say you don’t need to land the end of a sheet on a joist, as long as you stagger the joins. look on all the fixings instructions for different makes.

You lay the sheets across the joists not with them.

I thought about the amount of bags needed and thought he would need 4 blokes to do this, two mixing and two laying. seems like a lot of hard work when you could just pump it in.

The upvc arch formers look a bit naff in my opinion. I would also worry about getting them sealed to the windows well. im also not liking the window placement and would want to see it set further back into the warm part of the construction. all depends on what sort of house you are trying to build, one that just passes building regs or something better.

I looked at them then dismissed them, don’t remember why it was a couple of years ago.

We had a quote from wren, and Schmidt the hand built one was 2-3 grand dearer than wren and the same price as Schmidt my computer won’t let me upload a pic at the moment our hand built one still has mdf doors, to go oak would have been a good few thousand more.

Depending on what look you want, we wanted handle less but didn’t like the look of the metal trims used for the area your fingers go in, we ended up going with a local company who handmade it all in a small unit a couple of miles from us. the trim to put your fingers in is in solid timber, we went with oak, but the do walnut if you want a darker look.

What is going on the inner wall, insulated plasterboard, or just dot n dab boards. if you are having a lot of wall units you might want to fit something to the wall to fix the units to. whatever you do I’m sure you can pad the surface out enough to fly over the face of the steel to hide it. or talk to the engineer and see what you can do to change the size of the post.

Do you not have a foundation plan I wouldn’t expect the post to go down to the foundation , but instead sit on some concrete blockwork that brings it up to around dpc level or floor level. this lifts it out of the wet damp zone. concrete wise I would just widen your strip footing in the area of the post.

A block wall will give next to no sound insulation you will end up building 3 walls, block in the centre and two skins of some sort for sound and insulation properties.

Are these to sell both, or will you be living in one. i would want something far more robust if I was living in one of them, a stud wall with the correct boarding will meet the regs, but i would want something better. as mentioned above sound transfer will be very relevant as well.

Yep.

Some makes do have extensions however I don’t think they are available for that valve you have, do some searching. I think you will end up tearing that wall apart. having two different teams fit first and second fix can be a recipe for disaster I’m afraid.

I need to update a boundary, I’ve been told it can take up to a year 😂🤦🏻‍♂️

Flexible tile adhesive the single part bagged stuff, not the ready-mixed stuff out of a tub.