Russell griffiths

I think that's what I said. see your learning. @saveasteading

Why not take the garage ceiling down and do it from below, you can then update the fireproofing between the garage and bedroom.

That’s better. carry on sir.

FFS NO, NO ,NO ,NO. I TOLD YOU WHAT TO USE, WHY DO YOU WANT TO USE SOME GASH DOWN PIPE.

TBH your lucky you even have plaster, I’ve seen some horrible things behind kitchen units. bare walls, half plastered, dead rats. once the kitchen is in surely you won’t see any of this, however I can see you point about creatures. talk to the electrician and get him to slide a short piece of flexible conduit over the wires, then use expanding foam to seal the hole up.

Get some white air conditioner outdoor trunking, it’s the stuf they use to put air on pipes inside, lag that shit pipe you installed and put it inside a nice neat white trunking, it comes with nice radius bends and all sorts of stuff. f##rk me got you out of trouble again 😘

Re plumb it and keep it all internally.

Needs a drawing and spec.

Plus one to brazing.

Aluminium clad timber, triple glazed. im in awe of our windows every morning when the condensation is on the outside and the inner frame and glass are actually warm to the touch.

Looking at your new drawings with the old approval on it, your argument looks fine to me.

I actually made two scale models, including all the new hedges and other planting. I don’t know if it made that much difference but I did it because a member on here had done it a year previously. I knocked down a 60m timber building and replaced it with 220m!! when you have this meeting could you ask for time to prepare two scale computer generated cgi’s, full colour with all the landscaping in them. From a slightly funny angle which is how my brain works. they keep mentioning this bloody hedge and the view from the road. what is to stop you cutting the bloody thing down, they will see the house then. Maybe keep that as a bit of ammunition

Have you thought about getting two scale models made up, or two computer generated images exactly to scale.

Of course you can make it but is it worth 2weeks of your time to save £200. You will still need to buy the materials. and do you mean birch ply not beech. this very simple set was about £400. I can’t imagine the time it would have taken to make them.

If you don’t give a f##k you can do what you want 😂 everything is possible, you might need to move a joist to allow room for the trap. you might need to buy a tray that has a different position for the trap lots of options you need to establish what you have under the floor and how the new waste will connect to the original in floor pipework. most showers are a bodge up of poor pipework, flexi wastes and generally a complete pile of crap. it’s a pain but you will most likely need to rip the old one out and then come back with some pictures of what you have under there.

As far as planning is concerned do nothing. with regards building regs you need to ensure this new area complies with everything, fire escape, etc etc. building inspector will not care you have moved a wall or divided a space, as long as it all complies with the regs. you will never see planning again unless you get a complaint about something from a nosey neighbour.

Holiday cottage on it, if your in a sought after area.

My leaf blower would do this nicely. the only thing to sort out is some sort of liquid to bond them together.

As long as you don’t mind lots of mess everything is possible I would go back to the original structural engineer and get their opinion.

Don’t pay the £150 yet download a couple for the one off price, I think they are a few quid each lets have a look somebody put a pic of one up recently and it was missing lots of detail. have you bought a digger yet.

If you are doing this it’s not cheap, so do it right. your VCL goes over the inner most pir and under the battens. it needs to be connected to the floor in some way and also needs to pass up through the first floor, your insulation also needs to pass up through the first floor joists. if you make a good job of the inner pir you can use the foil face of it as a VCL by taping it together, then you tape it to the floor and upper ceiling to form a continuous line. imagine drawing your house, then get a pen and drawer a line around your house as the VCL you must drawer this line continuously until you get to where you started without taking your pen off the paper.

Why on Earth are your architects planning guy not attending what the bloody hell are you paying them for. as I said mine had an argument for every thing the council guy mentioned she didn’t say much, but every word was absolutely glorious, she countered everything the council guy said to the point that by the end of the meeting the council guy just said put everything you have just said in writing to me and I will pass it. There is a saying get your ducks in a row. this is exactly what you need to do, you will only get one chance.

Can you not get a meeting before the outcome, to try and workout what the likely outcome will be.

You are best of getting rid of all that rubble, that is not a good base for porcelain tiles. scratch all that out You will need a good base of type one for porcelain with a solid mortar bed. get rid of all that rubbish and then you will be able to peg out you heights better.