Russell griffiths

You should drop your worktop height down 75mm to make it easier to work on. I’ve just dropped ours to approximately 850 for my shorty wife.

The third block you listed is half the size of the others, so you need to buy twice as many, and lay twice as many.

The problem with icf over her is a lot of stuff is cut and pasted from American or Canadian regs. they have earth quakes and other severe weather, we get very few major weather incidents. my structural engineer said to me that you wouldn’t put re bar in a block built wall, so why is it needed in a concrete one with less joins. the only reason I see the need for reinforcement of a basic straight short wall would be if it was holding back a load, like a semi basement, or any roof load pushing outwards onto it.

The only steel in my nudura build was specifically aimed at constructing lintels above openings, none in any of the walls as specified by the SE. I did however put some in 😉

That’s what I thought, nothing going down it apart from water, so 1-80 would work fine.

What’s the 150 pipe for. apart from that I can’t see a problem.

I made 4 of my windows smaller on a nudura build, spray foam eps 100 directly to the reveals. dont overcomplicate this, just continue your airtight strategy over the extended piece of eps, so wider tape or extend the liquid membrane out further. windows will just need longer screws in the straps.

Yes, unless you are in a conservation area, then everything is covered.

If it comes out with a few wacks of a large crowbar then take it out, if after 10 minutes of sweating you can’t move it then leave it there.

75mm diameter at breast height. A cherry tree is certainly not a large shrub.

There’s no clips holding that pipe, so surely it’s not finished, I would get it all clipped and secure first, the right hand corner presumably goes to the machines. if running two washing machines i would either want it in 50mm pipe, or two pipes.

Scrape off the flaking paint, and give it a good coat of Hammerite paint. or find a metal primer that goes over rust and paint it with that first.

They do make a nice product, I’ve worked on a couple and they always feel very well put together.

Go and buy a length of eaves tray, or known as plastic tray that supports the roof felt, one piece will only be £5 get one and see if this would work, it would need to go under the roof sheets so you will need to unscrew them and poke it in. it might need trimming back to stop it showing indoors. got to be worth a punt.

Nope chasing services into woodcrete blocks is a non starter, it eats any form of cutting tool, if you go for a diamond disc it grinds the cement particles away but then sits there trying to burn through the wooden part. definitely re think this. as for screwing plasterboard onto woodcrete. I would say you need to go and visit a couple of woodcrete builds to decide your best approach. I’ve worked on two now and the surface finish to the blocks is nothing like flat enough to screw directly to.

The backside of these is normally in far worse condition than the bit you can see. get it replaced.

AONB has no bearing on it.

Looking at the topo your ffl is more or less exactly the same as outside ground level. this should have been picked up ages ago. do you have elevation drawings showing how the house sits in the plot. I would stop work, your ffl needs lifting 300mm or more depending on what you want. do you have any ridge height restrictions for planning.

I would say it depends what this house is for. is it your forever home or are you going to flick it off in 3 years and build another one. forever home build it as best you can, selling it go for just passing building regs.

(expletive deleted) me how can sealing up a poxy bit of conduit turn into some shit show about if it should be sealed on the outside side or on the inside. FFS just stick some (expletive deleted)ing silicone in it.

Because you said blockwork are you happy you have mitigated against the cold coming through the blocks, do you need to insulate this reveal ? once these bits are sorted it’s up to you how much frame you show. 25-30mm of frame here then the opening sash.

Stick a laser up that frame and it will show you the true extent of the shiteness that you have been left. call them back. there’s absolutely no way they can argue that’s ok.

Just the ends. ,don’t be overthinking this.

Who have you had quotes from, I used metal Soloutions in Bolton.

I used green coat plx, very happy with it. when I priced it it was half the price of zinc.