Russell griffiths

The backside of these is normally in far worse condition than the bit you can see. get it replaced.

AONB has no bearing on it.

Looking at the topo your ffl is more or less exactly the same as outside ground level. this should have been picked up ages ago. do you have elevation drawings showing how the house sits in the plot. I would stop work, your ffl needs lifting 300mm or more depending on what you want. do you have any ridge height restrictions for planning.

I would say it depends what this house is for. is it your forever home or are you going to flick it off in 3 years and build another one. forever home build it as best you can, selling it go for just passing building regs.

(expletive deleted) me how can sealing up a poxy bit of conduit turn into some shit show about if it should be sealed on the outside side or on the inside. FFS just stick some (expletive deleted)ing silicone in it.

Because you said blockwork are you happy you have mitigated against the cold coming through the blocks, do you need to insulate this reveal ? once these bits are sorted it’s up to you how much frame you show. 25-30mm of frame here then the opening sash.

Stick a laser up that frame and it will show you the true extent of the shiteness that you have been left. call them back. there’s absolutely no way they can argue that’s ok.

Just the ends. ,don’t be overthinking this.

Who have you had quotes from, I used metal Soloutions in Bolton.

I used green coat plx, very happy with it. when I priced it it was half the price of zinc.

Cut the conduit proud of the membrane by 5mm, Push the cable through with loads of spare, silicon the cable into the conduit and seal the conduit to the membrane, it’s that simple. if you want to be more thorough you can buy a square of membrane that has a small stretchy area in the middle designed to be placed tightly over pipes and taped onto the membrane.

@Nickfromwales one for you

You can buy built in fridge and freezer and use them perfectly now, they just don’t have a pretty white door on them.

I believe you will need fire rated downlights downstairs, find the ones that don’t need a hood.

I’ve seen some stuff, but those chimney caps are hilarious 🤣

You might work on those houses, but do you live in one and pay the heating bill. I thought you wanted to improve your house, not make it the same standard as the shite being turned out by the mass house builders. the non breathable stuff will act as a good vcl but very little in the way of insulation. im afraid if you want better you need to consider the stuff the mass housebuilders turn out to be very poor. we have some of the worst housing in Europe. if you want to build something better, stay here and ask more questions and do more research. aside from that have you had a look at the condition of your wall ties if your place is one of the first cavity walls built, corroding wall ties can be a problem.

Be careful don’t believe the manufacturer, look at independent research. it would be the last product i would use.

I think you will need to forget the small fridge, maybe turn that into just storage, the fridge and freezer could just be off the shelf built in units, and then you need to get busy with your carpentry skills.

That must be one of the earliest cavity walls around.

You could, but get the flooring guy in to give you a spec and see if there happy, it’s the fussiest trade I’ve come across.

As above just buy built in fridge and freezer and build cabinets to suit. all mine are built in and I have cut large holes in the service void that comes on the cabinets to allow more airflow than is required. (I hope ) ps, Pinterest is a ba##ard, cost me thousands.

Don’t do a bloody thing until you have a LVT contractor, then let him do everything, as soon as you touch it they won’t warrant any of the work they do.

If you look at all the YouTube videos on how to pick a euro style cylinder, and then the link to buy the tools, I’m afraid you can only do so much. with the scum cutting off bike locks in broad daylight, until the courts start locking them up for a longtime you are just waiting for it to happen to you. there’s absolute scum everywhere and it should be totally legal to shoot anybody you find on your property.

I think this is the problem, if you haven’t chosen your top coat the go to system on bare plaster is cheap contract Matt thinned down. you then buy you top coat and it says not to do that. you sort of need to know the finish and work backwards.

I’ve got a couple of newly plastered walls that are not giving me good results when painting them. so I did a bit of YouTube research and then phoned 3 different paint manufacturers technical help lines. the old school method has always been to mist coat new plaster with a diluted cheap emulsion paint, normally contract Matt or wickes cheap white rubbish, dilute it down slap it on everything and then away you go with your chosen top colour coat. the problems seem to be occurring with the new breed of washable scrubbable matt paints, they give good cleaning properties but you get the trendy flat Matt finish that a lot of the in vogue colour schemes call for. these new paints will not stick properly to contract Matt and need an appropriate primer used as the mist coat. somebody was having these problems a while ago but I hadn’t really looked into it then. look into better mist coating or pick your top coat first and go from there. just don’t buy some cheap white and start slapping it on. hope that helps someone.