Russell griffiths

I personally would go for the full topography survey, you may be surprised that there not that dear. Why. Because you will use it a load more than you think you can send it electronically to anybody who needs it you will need one if you need a flood risk assessment you can give it to the surveyor to mark out the location for the new house you can give it to the Groundworks guys to set out drains etc etc ours cost £600 but our site mapped was aprox 400m by 100m and consisted of aprox 1200plotted points it would be the first thing I would do if buying another piece of land.

It can go up through the slab, but will need putting in a duct to enable it to be replaced if the need arises. I would run it around the house and only under the slab at the point it needs to enter the building. You will probably bring it up in your plant room or whatever room you are having all your water and mechanical wizardry in.

So more by luck than judgment, I'm planning on having a fairly large 750mm roof overhang over the windows and also the roof under the windows is only 15 degrees so easy to walk on.

I have seen the flooring continued under the second story many times it seams to be a detail added for extra bracing within the frame. So they are using the floor sheets as a sort of lateral brace and a spreader tie.

https://pin.it/bpLBAgE This is the sort of thing I'm thinking of, they are indeed called celestory windows you clever bloke @PeterW

Pic added if you look at the sloping roof I can spin this 180degrees so it can either slope north to south or south to north so putting that strip of skinny windows in either the north face or south face. Any thoughts appreciated.

https://www.houzz.co.uk/photo/65633706-siga-house-contemporary-exterior-cincinnati

Ok so due to our planning officer?We are having a bit of a re design. So I will try to explain but I haven't got any drawings done yet so can't upload any but might be able to find an example on the web. We are having some high level windows installed in a wall just below a vaulted ceiling. Now I can turn this roof 180 degrees with out it effecting much. I am concerned with high level windows that allowing light in that we want, will also allow solar gain and lead to overheating in the summer. These windows can either face due SOUTH or due NORTH they will be aprox 4.5m long and 750 high. I will try and find some pics.

Dunlop volley, tennis shoes.

SIDE TRACKING ALERT. How did we get from vaulted ceilings to chopping the bottom of your doors??

Yes to be honest I've never known one I've put in fail. I just hate additional joins if not needed. I thought I would have been able to buy the tap and a couple of adapters to make it a bit longer.

Any good to you. I use that site all the time has so many ideas in one place.

https://www.houzz.co.uk/photo/5537422-astro-designs-contemporary-kitchen-and-bathroom-design-contemporary-kitchen-ottawa

So it turns out the idiot designers aren't clever enough to work out old style brass stop cocks are 30mm longer than the new plastic ones, do they not make an adapter to lengthen the valve. Had to faff around adding a straight join just to add in a tiny bit of pipe. Oh how I hate unnecessary joins and potential leak points. ?

aha. You hit the nail on the head. This is where I get my dislike for all the fancy European windows the opening configuration seems crazy (to me) does anybody make a good sliding window. All our previous windows where sliders so allowing external fly screens which also double as a security screen so a window can be left ajar a bit if needed.

Having lived in Australia for a few years I know that good quality bug screens are available for windows and doors. Im not interested in any aftermarket looks like a dogs dinner load of poop, i can find exactly what I need in oz the problem seems to be the windows and doors they fit to are single glazed ? So not exactly any good over here. Anybody got any experience with American or Canadian made windows.

So if I go and get the new plastic one, what are the chances that the fitting lengths will be different and I will need a fancy adapter or something, or are they clever enough that they made the plastic ones longer so a bit of trimming is all that's needed. What you reckon @Onoff @Nickfromwales @PeterW

If I was there with my digger I could find that pipe in two minutes flat????

This is probably going to start another question I will need to ask. Is mvhr going to work in our situation.

Ok, so in the back garden we have a lake, but it has a bit of a downside which is the flying creatures, everything you can imagine buzzing about. So we need windows capable of having bug screens fitted. We also need these on a couple of large sliding doors as well. All I keep coming up with are the couple of American companies. Anybody got any experience. Cheers russ.

So trying to get my head around how to get ducts from room to room across a vaulted ceiling do I run it in the ceiling void between the joists in amongst the insulation? What about the airtight layer? Or do I have a deeper service void under the airtight membrane? Whats everybody done.

See you bloody northerners have got all the money.

Could you not recover costs from those who plotted in wrong place.

Sorry sounds crazy to me. Work out where all your drains are going put your pipe work in tape up the ends or cap off. Install ufh screed on top. Dont try and reinvent the wheel it's been done this way for ever. The thing to to think about is if a pipe is for the drain of a kitchen sink it is easy to put a couple of 45 bends in to get it exactly where you need it, the same for a vanity, you will need to be a bit more accurate with the toilet waste but again many of the pan couplers will allow a twist around to allow for perfect alignment. I think the only waste where you will need to be millimetre perfect would be a sink with no pedestal or vanity to allow any wiggle room.

Is there a good make or one to avoid. It's 32mm so a fair bit of water in it I would prefer quality rather than cheap and shite. Cheers.