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Russell griffiths

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Everything posted by Russell griffiths

  1. Russell griffiths
    being a welding god you should be able to knock something up in a jiffy.
  2. Russell griffiths
    On a different note are you having any external insulation over the durisol blocks ? if so then is this little cold spot really an issue. To completly think a bit differently why not leave them in until concrete is cured, remove timber, smash the granny out of the threaded stud smashing it through to the inside, use a drift to punch it 50 mm into the outside face, cut off flush inside, fill hole outside there i I bet that will get yer brain tingling.
  3. Russell griffiths
    Already suggested that ?
  4. Russell griffiths
    I am thinking of icf so have watched a lot of vids on it. I would want something ready for when you pour in case it goes out of plum, like some studs pre cut and a load of screws handy or a couple of acrow props. Unless you are 100% it ain't going nowhere.
  5. Russell griffiths
    Thinking of our new build rather than this old crock we live in now, if you have the timer remotely situated how have you got the flex from the towel rail to it ? Have you replaced the flex that they are supplied with.
  6. Russell griffiths
    ta very much.
  7. Russell griffiths
    Could I use an immersion timer. @Nickfromwales
  8. Russell griffiths
    Looking at your pic it all looks jolly strong, but do you have any provisions for making it plum. Even after the concrete is poured I would want a way of checking plum and the ability to adjust if necessary.
  9. Russell griffiths
    Following on from another thread, what sort of timer can be used with an electric towel rail, the flex outlet is already in position but is permanently on so I would like the ability to run it for a few hours a day.
  10. Russell griffiths
    They do actually make a thing for this exact purpose,for shuttering carpenters, it is very much like a piece of 3/4 overflow pipe it is placed inside the shuttering and the threaded rod goes through it, leave threaded rod in until fully cured and then remove, you will be left with a very neat 3/4 Diameter hole you can then fill.
  11. Russell griffiths
    If it's got that many holes in it, he's half way there.
  12. Russell griffiths
    Have you done this bloody job yet? Your god like status is slowly ebbing away.
  13. Russell griffiths
    Getting away from kebabs and potholeing can somebody explain a bit more about the ipx4 rating on the towel rail. I have just taken an old towel rail down as I didn't like it being close to the new shower I put in, but to be honest we really miss it so a safe version would be really welcome. The power supply was always on the other side of a stud wall in the airing cupboard so that is ok, the old one just looked so crap it had to go. Cheers off out to get a kebab now it's made me feel hungry.
  14. Russell griffiths
    The last place I built had a100mm slab, but had thickening beams criss crossing it for strength and to stop cracking, after all the faff of digging out the beams I thought it would have been so much easier to go for thicker all over. So we seem to have deviated a bit from the original question which was pipe location. So if I have a 100mm slab where would the best place be to have the pipe, bottom, middle 150mm slab where would the best place be to have the pipe, bottom ,middle
  15. Russell griffiths
    Hmn ok so rethink the mesh, any other ways to fix the pipe except hundreds of cable ties. Would really like to keep the pipe out of the way in case of any crazy men with a long drill bit
  16. Russell griffiths
    We are just designing at the moment, we know we can get away with 100mm of concrete as a non structural floor slab,just a few internal non load bearing stud walls. But for the extra cost I would rather go 150mm as I'm a bit ott and like things chunky. I suppose I could use mesh with pipework tied to mesh which would put pipes at 70 mm below slab finish so well out of harms way. The reason I wanted to do it without mesh is I will be doing 90% of this build myself with just some hired in labour so thinking if I can get a mix delivered that has the same strength as a slab with reo without having to handle all those sheets of reo and holding up on chairs then I can cut out a step making it easier for me to complete on my own. I will ask a few questions regarding slab design.
  17. Russell griffiths
    Got a pic.
  18. Russell griffiths
    If doing a concrete mix with ss fibres added instead of mesh is there a system to have the pipe located more centrally in the slab. All of the clip down systems I've seen fix directly to the insulation.
  19. Russell griffiths
    Hi all, is there an optimum location within the floor slab to position the pipe work, for example in a 150mm floor slab laid on insulation could the pipe work be pinned to the insulation or is it better to be located centrally in the slab fixed to the reinforcement mesh. I like the the idea of fixing it down low in the slab just for piece of mind of fixing anything to the slab while the build continues it is out of harms way. Cheers.
  20. Russell griffiths
    Stick it on with pigeon s--t then cover with sikaflx use your finger to shape the sikaflex so it looks like a weld, and bobs your mothers brother. As long as you don't have to take it for an mot. Will be fine. Tbh if the whole of the roof is a bit iffy why not lay a few lengths of timber across and sheet it with galvanised sheets, you could find one patch could be the first of many.
  21. Russell griffiths
    TBH you need to think what this is for and how long until you sell it on. Welding to that with a stick will be a pita unless you are a welding god. Which you are probably not as you wouldn't need to ask the question. I would cut a patch larger than affected areas, clean area and prime stick patch on with stickaflex or ct1 smear around edges and smooth off with a paintbrush dipped in appropriate thinner, prime and paint over the whole patch. Go to pub with money saved from all those bent twisted welding rods. Ca Ching.
  22. Russell griffiths
    As @Barney12 said it's been a long day and my brains fried tonight. Ignore me please.
  23. Russell griffiths
    The way I see it is this 1:40 is as he said for every meter you drop 40mm so over 15m would be15 x 40 =600 so your 540mm is not far away. I stand to to be corrected but it's how I've always looked at it.
  24. Russell griffiths
    Need a pic really. If the strap is nailed to the frame on the outside of the membrane that will be a pain. I would think you would need to cut around them, poke your new Dpc up fold cut membrane back down and repair membrane with appropriate tape
  25. Russell griffiths
    We built with a very similar build up, we added another damp course sealed to the outside of the timber frame,fitted over the sarking board but under the weather membrane, this then crossed the cavity with weep holes fitted above any moisture falling down the cavity was ejected outwards.
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