Russell griffiths

Ceiling will be double boarded, with a vapour barrier i had thought of comparing it to two separate dwellings what would a detail be for two separate dwellings ? If they shared the same roof covering, like a pair of semi detached houses.

Hi, can anybody offer any comments on my rather poor sketch i have an attached garage on an icf build we are currently working on at the end of the garage is a gable wall, on the other side of the gable wall is a bedroom so looking at the sketch we have a solid concrete wall running up to the underside of the roof covering, the top of the wall will be covered in rockwool insulation my question. Is there a risk of fire traveling along the roof battens, should the battens be stopped in The middle of the wall and some sort of fire stop installed between the batten ends. Hope that makes sense. Black things are rafters blue shaded thing is the top of the wall red lines roof battens

Thanks all will talk to the building control guy, we are a long way off finalising this.

Have you considered using an i joist for the walls and getting it stick built on site, no crane no forklift, 2 chippies and a good set of drawings

Is your build @Dreadnaught not single storey ? if so I would think no crane needed, just a telescopic forklift with a mast extension. Or a tracked mini crane, lots about nowadays, typically used for installing heavy windows, I can’t think that any of your panels will be that heavy. What sort of weight are you talking about

At the moment the house is designed as single storey, it is in effect a fancy bungalow however we have a vaulted ceiling at 5m high the two bedrooms where going to have ceilings with voids above to house the mvhr and ducting, however as it has grown up it looks like an enormous amount of space that could be used as my wifes craft , sewing area.

Morning all, since our building is springing up the height is looking slightly larger than I had imagined and I’m thinking of putting in a mezzanine level would this be something that I need to discuss with the planners or is it a case of talking just to the building regs guy. From outside the house you would never know it will all be internal alterations. Any thoughts.

Can mbc not source these a friend of mines timberframe came with all linings, skirting architrave im probably stating the obvious as I’m sure you’ve asked.

Who are ya, who are ya. Shouted in football hooligan type voice.

That looks like the one I was thinking of @Blob the Builder some good details in that. I think it is certainly something I would do if building timberframe.

My mate has a converted garage type warehouse instead of keeping downstairs as commercial he divided the building in two left half commercial garage, right half two storey dwelling, this way he had less problems with noise fire regs and all other stuff he has a house all his mates are envious of, massive garage big enough for 10 cars and walks 5passes to be back in his apartment in the centre of Melbourne pits probably worth a couple of million dollars as there was no chance of ever buying a residential plot that close to the city.

There is no need to move the door , just do the job properly with the right materials if you say that there is only 500 mm of brickwork above then prop the whole lot up on acrow props and take all the brickwork down in the new opening right up to underneath those purlin supports then install the steel and build it up in new brickwork this will save having to try and keep just 6-7 courses in place as you hammer and bang about if you try and keep the brickwork above I guarantee you will disturb it, and you will have to pack the steel up under the old brick work so you might as well take it all down and rebuild nice and fresh. I would like to think under all that loft insulation will be a wall plate of some description just build up to the underside and pack and re bed under it.

Have you looked into spares for the bobkat its not a massive player in the mini digger market over here.

What is the terrain like, we have lots of trees, I purposely bought one without a cab as I new the glass would get smashed all the time this has turned out to be completely true.

Yep get a digger, we have a chunk of land and I find I can pop out for an hour of an evening in the summer and do all sorts of things that I would put off. Personaly I went for a 1.5 tonne machine, for a couple of reasons access I can squeeze it through a 1100mm gap so around the back of the house no problem less ground damage, I can sneak across the lawn and sit on a sheet of ply and not leave a mark. Parts are cheaper that machine you are looking at needs tracks, price a pair up and compare it to a pair for a 1.5 tonne machine. The power and ability my machine has surprises me every time I use it i have a kubota u15. 2000hours, cost me £7250 plus vat. Dont buy a wheeled machine unless you like mess. The next problem like like I have is you will want a tractor and trailer

I have read some ridiculous crap in my time but that is up there with the best. So if your window opens it has to be cleanab, but if it’s a fixed pain it doesn’t

Please tell me I’m wrong but what requirement for cleaning the windows how can that work I’m having lots of windows situated 4m above ground that don’t open how do they propose I swing them around to clean them. What a load of rubbish.

I just want to be happy dont care how far the build gets just want to stop being so grumpy.

Have you found a tile to do this pitch ? im at 10 degrees and using a raised seam metal roof. Im not sure I know of many pitched roof products that will go as low as that, from that 3d drawing I think grey metal to match the flat area would look good.

Remember to insulate under the static very well.

I would save your time, and And stick to a tried and trusted method.

I think it would depend what you painted it with. I spray painted plywood with a two pack white, then sanded then another couple of coats of two pack. It looked just like melamine smooth as a babies bum. If you spray it with 3-4 coats of a high build acrylic and then give it a good sand, then hit it with 4 coats of acrylic eggshell I think it would be fairly flat. If you pick a flat colour it will hide many imperfections.

In oz I saw a house built that was steel frame it then had thermalite block skin on the outside. The differance was the thermalites came in 2400mm high by 600mm wide and you screwed them to the frame you then applied a bag render with mesh just like over here.

If you use the new soudal foam, there is no expansion. Have a look at their new catalogue, some good new products

Why not just paint the osb.