Russell griffiths

You would need to insure your concrete pour was accurate to within 3-5 mm over the length of the wall, or your joists would all be out of level, you would then need to cut every block you put on next to accommodate the joist in the way. I really don’t see what benefit this method would have over the standard fixing method of a pole plate bolted to the wall and joist hangers. The canadians and the yanks have been doing it like this for years, can’t see any reason to change it.

Larry Hunn, proper old school framer, I think if you stick to the correct framing process but add in some new cad design and some new better fasteners then timberframe can be a very good method.

Screws aren’t a no no, you just have to use a screw specific to the hanger. Look at the manufacturers spec. @recoveringacademic don’t try and reinvent the wheel mark the plate up with a hanger and a set square, and as nick said a piece of timber to act as a shelf, then just drop all the joists in after you could have fitted all the hangers while the pole plate was on the deck, but now it’s up just do as above. You will find it easier to swing the hammer without a joist in the way.

How about I contact him and ask for a bulk purchase price.

I will see if I can put a link up, but I’m a bit of a Luddite when it comes to the computer.

Evening. A lad near me is selling hundreds of second hand solar panels off a solar farm,the surface of the panels are all scratched and marked, he said they are all working at about 80% capacity. Now im not thinking of the house, but can anybody think of uses around the garden, 3-4 of them on the shed 1 to trickle charge the electric fence 1 to run a pond pump come on you boffins are they of any use.

I can see your point, if they messed up their contract and it’s full of holes then go for it however I will add this if you purchased knowing there was an uplift clause then you new full well the costs involved, you have then found a loophole because of some shoddy paperwork, is that really fair, what if the boot was on the other foot, what if you had put up the question : my purchaser doesn’t want to pay me my uplift money: What does your conscience tell you, do you believe in karma ?

You also don’t need to screw into the floor to erect your stud walls, just glue your bottom plate down with no nails.

My thoughts on this would be that, if I was the vendor and I thought you had done this on purpose to avoid paying any uplift, I would hunt you down with the most ferocious solicitor I could find, I would make it a quest until you pay or I dropped dead. Would it be a case of your solicitor is bigger than their solicitor. Are you prepared for a fight. What you thinking.

Looks excellent, I’m just at about 2.7m in my icf build, I really don’t know if I’m over doing it with the temporary bracing on corners and windows, I’ve been cutting and screwing for days now, probably watched to many videos where it all goes wrong.

I sent my details to marmox and they we’re happy. I wouldn’t use ply under a slider for two reasons 1 it could get wet and rot 2 it will compress i think somebody on here already did this and found they have a dip in their bottom track

Nudura £22,000 steel cost, £1,500 i have lots of large openings and a number of large concrete beams holding up the roof steel cost is minimal compared to the block and concrete. 55 cubic metres of concrete in mine. Find a good structural engineer that knows icf and you will save a few quid.

Are you happy with that so close to those kitchen units, my wood burner would have that decor panel screaming out for help after a couple of nights, also the underside of the worktop i don’t know if yours is more insulated than mine, but anything within 600mm soon becomes to hot to touch.

Four grand for a front door, where do they get these prices.

Hi block n beam company do the design, just send them a floor layout, I picked my company by location as I new delivery would be a large cost, I used rackam house floors. 160m cost about £2000 without blocks, lightweight blocks 70p each.

Very nice, what is the cladding next to the front door. Russ.

Sorry couldn’t resist it. ??? looking good mate. ??

Is there a reason mosaic number 2 doesn’t match the rest. Report post

Ours went in a month ago and was very straightforward Things I liked. Pipe placement was easy and allowed me to move a pipe I wasn’t happy with, has given me a working platform that doesn’t contain any underfloor heating that could get damaged as I have a hundred fixings to go in the floor to hold up my bracing for the icf walls. Things I don’t like. large cold void under the floor, increased height of finished floor.

In Ian’s post @Nickfromwales he says they are for fixing his first floor.

like these.

Are you sure these are strong enough to take the load of a floor i think I would be checking a few things. My first choice would be a sleeve anchor or old fashioned raw bolt. I have just put 200 of those concrete screws in my place and found it was a hit n miss affair if they took well, I would not want to use them in a critical location.

I have just done something very similar, I mixed a mixer full of strong 3:1 sharp sand and cement, I then mixed a bag full of self levelling compound in a big bucket with a whisk , I then added the two together it did what I wanted perfectly, why not have a play with a few different mixes to see how it works for you. £10 for a bag is worth a couple of try’s

I had to re do my kitchen roof over the Christmas holidays a couple of years ago, so definitely not a good time what I did was to go and buy a big blowtorch, the sort roofers use to stick down the torch on membranes it was the type of torch that has a big fluffy type of flame not a skinny brazing type flame. I got on the roof first thing in the morning with a leaf blower and gave it a really hard blow, and then heated the entire surface until it was steaming, I wanted every drop of moisture out, cup of tea and then warm it all up again until the osb was really nice and warm, allow it to cool while you cut your matting to size and your ready to go. Mine came out superb, it was a bit of a bodge job as it’s on a house I want to knock down so didn’t bother with fanciful details. one thing I will strongly recommend if you have a drip edge into a gutter, then router this edge into your osb as it creates a lip that water sits behind, most of the instructions I have seen say water will flow over this lip as it’s only 1.5mm high. Which it does when in full flow it’s the little showers that sit behind it.