Russell griffiths

I can see your point, if they messed up their contract and it’s full of holes then go for it however I will add this if you purchased knowing there was an uplift clause then you new full well the costs involved, you have then found a loophole because of some shoddy paperwork, is that really fair, what if the boot was on the other foot, what if you had put up the question : my purchaser doesn’t want to pay me my uplift money: What does your conscience tell you, do you believe in karma ?

You also don’t need to screw into the floor to erect your stud walls, just glue your bottom plate down with no nails.

My thoughts on this would be that, if I was the vendor and I thought you had done this on purpose to avoid paying any uplift, I would hunt you down with the most ferocious solicitor I could find, I would make it a quest until you pay or I dropped dead. Would it be a case of your solicitor is bigger than their solicitor. Are you prepared for a fight. What you thinking.

Looks excellent, I’m just at about 2.7m in my icf build, I really don’t know if I’m over doing it with the temporary bracing on corners and windows, I’ve been cutting and screwing for days now, probably watched to many videos where it all goes wrong.

I sent my details to marmox and they we’re happy. I wouldn’t use ply under a slider for two reasons 1 it could get wet and rot 2 it will compress i think somebody on here already did this and found they have a dip in their bottom track

Nudura £22,000 steel cost, £1,500 i have lots of large openings and a number of large concrete beams holding up the roof steel cost is minimal compared to the block and concrete. 55 cubic metres of concrete in mine. Find a good structural engineer that knows icf and you will save a few quid.

Are you happy with that so close to those kitchen units, my wood burner would have that decor panel screaming out for help after a couple of nights, also the underside of the worktop i don’t know if yours is more insulated than mine, but anything within 600mm soon becomes to hot to touch.

Four grand for a front door, where do they get these prices.

Hi block n beam company do the design, just send them a floor layout, I picked my company by location as I new delivery would be a large cost, I used rackam house floors. 160m cost about £2000 without blocks, lightweight blocks 70p each.

Very nice, what is the cladding next to the front door. Russ.

Sorry couldn’t resist it. ??? looking good mate. ??

Is there a reason mosaic number 2 doesn’t match the rest. Report post

Ours went in a month ago and was very straightforward Things I liked. Pipe placement was easy and allowed me to move a pipe I wasn’t happy with, has given me a working platform that doesn’t contain any underfloor heating that could get damaged as I have a hundred fixings to go in the floor to hold up my bracing for the icf walls. Things I don’t like. large cold void under the floor, increased height of finished floor.

In Ian’s post @Nickfromwales he says they are for fixing his first floor.

like these.

Are you sure these are strong enough to take the load of a floor i think I would be checking a few things. My first choice would be a sleeve anchor or old fashioned raw bolt. I have just put 200 of those concrete screws in my place and found it was a hit n miss affair if they took well, I would not want to use them in a critical location.

I have just done something very similar, I mixed a mixer full of strong 3:1 sharp sand and cement, I then mixed a bag full of self levelling compound in a big bucket with a whisk , I then added the two together it did what I wanted perfectly, why not have a play with a few different mixes to see how it works for you. £10 for a bag is worth a couple of try’s

I had to re do my kitchen roof over the Christmas holidays a couple of years ago, so definitely not a good time what I did was to go and buy a big blowtorch, the sort roofers use to stick down the torch on membranes it was the type of torch that has a big fluffy type of flame not a skinny brazing type flame. I got on the roof first thing in the morning with a leaf blower and gave it a really hard blow, and then heated the entire surface until it was steaming, I wanted every drop of moisture out, cup of tea and then warm it all up again until the osb was really nice and warm, allow it to cool while you cut your matting to size and your ready to go. Mine came out superb, it was a bit of a bodge job as it’s on a house I want to knock down so didn’t bother with fanciful details. one thing I will strongly recommend if you have a drip edge into a gutter, then router this edge into your osb as it creates a lip that water sits behind, most of the instructions I have seen say water will flow over this lip as it’s only 1.5mm high. Which it does when in full flow it’s the little showers that sit behind it.

What makes you think a sips roof will be air tight, look up all the problems they have had in the states with them, lots of rotten sips roofs what span are you talking about ? I have tried to get prices for a sips roof and they couldn’t do the spans without adding extra solid timber into the web to stiffen them up, leading to massive cold bridges.

Crack on mate, you seem to have made your mind up. Who’s putting wood in their window reveals ? Certainly not me.

Of topic, the timber battens are coloured so bc can check they are the correct grade from the floor. The standard tanalised ones aren’t to spec any more

We all have to make our own path in life, so really you need to do some good research and make your own mind up. Im using nudura, would I use it again, yes. Things to look into. How easy is it to use ? when it’s up what else do you need to do to it, is it air tight? Do you need to parge coat it? when it’s up how good is it ? Is it flat ? what is your chosen finish ? how will you fix to it ? blah blah blah write a big list of things you want your wall to do and choose a product that fits the bill.

Tile nailing is dependant on tile make and wind rating in your area, I have tiled a roof before with not one nail in it anywhere so check manufacturers guidelines. Over lap on membrane, he should be sticking to what manufacturers recommend. Tile gauge will be dependent, if it is a detached house he should measure the entire roof and work out the gauge evenly, making sure he has the correct head lap if it’s a semi detached, he may have to follow next door to maintain a good marry up with there tiles, unless he has put in a vertical valley if he won’t put in the ventilation tray what else has he missed, how about the anti ponding tray on top of the facia? either way your paying so make sure you check and get it put right

Looking at you sketch, I think you need to include your finished floor, will your floor structure not continue into the door reveal area? As it looks are you not creating a straight joint in front of the door, depending on floor finish this could lead to cracking in the finished floor. I have spent a good good few hours thinking of this detail, mine is icf block and I’m going to install marmox blocks in the inner core and have the floor screed continue into the door reveal to prevent any straight joints.

Have a look on Charlie luxtons new build, he used a fibreglass angle to sit his doors on as they had a smaller thermal bridge than a chunk of steel. Or you could look at marmox blocks, which are insulated blocks but with high compression due to some inner epoxy type dowels