Russell griffiths

My mate just did his man cave in these white panels that are used inside caravans and motor homes and horse boxes 2.4 x1.2 white some sort of melamine type face, he just screwed them on with the plastic caps that cover the screws, little plastic joining strips. Expensive though

Top banana @A_L have not seen that site before.

Not worried about battens coming loose @Mr Punter will all be screwed down. Roof is metal sheets with a 50mm breather gap @ProDave even with a breather gap I’m anticipating a bit of condensation on the back of the sheets, which will drip onto my membrane, so I’m trying to put the best most watertight membrane on I can, the Swiss manufacturers recommend a nail strip under the counter batten, it is probably over kill but I would kick myself for scrimping on a detail and then have problems i would rather leave out a fancy tap in the kitchen to build a better roof.

Just added up all my batten length and it looks like I would need 700m @£1.20 a m i think i will put a line of cheap pu adhesive under them. Can get boxes of 12 tubes for £3.30 a tube. Belt n braces I think. Probably over doing it, but I do intend being buried in the back garden when I go so don’t want to be looking at a leaky roof as I lay in my box.

Morning all it has been suggested to me that under my counter batten I fit a foam strip to protect against any water penetration around nail and screw fixing holes. Having found some eye watering products I wondered if anybody has used anything cheaper. Ta.

Could you install an insulated cavity closer and then clad the reveal in something like a cement board, or plastic facia to match the colour of the door.???

I think he is probably stuck in 1980, if he suggests you render the out side in a sand and cement render, kill him quickly and bury the body in your footings. Im not familiar with stone walls but from what I do know I think it should be allowed to breath i would look for better clarification from a stone/lime pointing type body.

Is this a detached garage, or attached to your house. Two very different sets of answers.

The holes in the osb that scanda hause use are about the size of a 2p why not fit your membrane directly onto the osb with holes then counter batten. No wind washing then.

Put them where, spread sheet ????????? oh how I laughed, I’m a silly navvy not a mathematician membrane picked by trying to tear it apart, poking my finger through it, and how many free t shirts and knives the rep gave me.

Better stainless, ridiculous markup because they have a fancy name. TBH it’s a stainless trough with a grid on top, any good fabrication shop could knock one up for £50.

TBH I’ve picked the dearest option, I just put this up for others reference.

So the snow turned up, and being a soft southern sod I needed to find something to do that didn’t involve going outside. So 72 hours later there’s not a drop of water passed through either of these roof membranes. How else do I decide which one to use, both from the same manufacturer, difference in price between the two is roughly £300. Its not just @JSHarris who’s the scientist, can I have an OLOGY.

Here’s a random idea why not install a sewage treatment plant, and then just pump cleaned grey water instead of lumpy poo water. Would only require the digging of a shallow, narrow trench to take the 65mm pipe, no fall needed

Er er er can’t help it, can’t hold tongue nope it’s shit don’t do it.

i Was taught that if you have nothing good to say then say nothing. So im sitting here trying not to say anything.

Have you got a link. Lots of things look good on paper, but I always think from the point of how are you going to fit it

Only put about 1 minutes thought into this, could you put up steel track n stud wall and spray foam the back side against the granite fully filling to the face of the studs. Stud wall 70 mm, gap behind for wobbly granite 10-15 mm total 100mm with plasterboard so 88mm of closed cell spray foam. I really can’t think of anything you can use that will go that thin do you have to comply with building regs as I don’t know what the minimum would be for that.

On a more sensible note i take it you need the trailer for something else as you shouldn’t be mixing any sand and cement in this weather but you know that don’t you.

just an image to understand metal studs with insulation.

Think from a practical point, not an insulation point how will you build this, how long will the screws need to be to fix to the wall ? if the walls aren’t perfectly flat your battens will be all over the place and will need packing out to make level my thought would be to build an internal stud wall either in light steel track n stud or standard timber then insulation behind this and in between studs, leave a gap for services, fit a clever two way vapour membrane what ya think.

I normally put it in the microwave the bird indoors gets the ump with this, so I have my own in the garage now

You will need some careful details at the sole plate if you fit sips down onto a cold slab. Lots of planning to make them work properly without lots of cold bridges

You need to add a vapour control layer between the 40mm celotex and the batten this can be achieved many ways a vapour control membrane taped on with all joints taped and taped to walls or tape all joins in 40mm celotex with the aluminium tape and seal to walls. That second roof makeup is probably a million times better than the first with just a little bit of juggling.

IMHO that looks like a really stupid design so yo install bloody expensive insulation and then cut a hole in it for a light DUR. might as well leave the window open pull the 100mm celotex down and touch the 40 mm against it, then find a shallow light or increase the batten depth, how is she proposing to provide your airtight layer if your going to cut a sodding great hole in it. Sorry that’s rubbish. You can have the best insulation in the world, but if it’s leaky and gappy you might as well leave it out.