Russell griffiths

Your best bet is to look on e bay, facebook, look out for a job lot of bandstands and boards from someone local who has just completed a project, I picked up 6 bandstands and 10 boards for less money than just the 10 boards.

@Tom's Barn treated sawn 25x100 got it in BPS IN CIRENCESTER, really nice lads, the branch manager Wayne has been to site a couple of times, he’s keen on new business. Raised seam roof. In the pic of the stainless mesh I also covered the edges with sikaflex to stick it down because of the gaps created by staples. You could have come and had a look a week ago, but it’s all covered now.

They will only be half as good.

In 35 years of doing one of the most dangerous jobs we have in this country, the thing I always considered to be the most life threatening thing I did every day was. Drive my car to work. I know we are saying woodburners are dirty, but c,mon we aren’t all dropping dead because we sat by the fire in the pub last night.

According to our letting agents, a woodburner is the biggest selling point in the English holiday rental market, the second is a hot tub.

There is an installation guide pdf, any good.

@PeterW you never cease to amaze at your all round knowledge. ????

Is this any help. Stainless mesh over counter batten gap. then 100x25treated batten to take the sheets. Not corregated but it is metal.

Why not use a rest bend, they are so cheap it’s not worth trying to use an alternative.

I think ct1 would work but why not use a product designed for air sealing windows i have just had a load of ILBRUCK AIR SEALING FOAM delivered and sausages of air sealing sealant. The correct sealant was £7 a sausage for probably 1-1/2 times the quantity of a tube of ct1.

Nope glue only, try sticking to sheets of eps together and then pulling them apart, you will tear chunks from the eps before you separate the join.

Is your basement heated or unheated, if it’s heated then I cannot see why you need an insulated floor. If unheated then yes I can. I believe @Patrick has just looked into this and the pre formed insulation blocks are very expensive, so he is thinking of making his own from 100mm eps sheet.

I would look at your house insurance, what are you going to keep in it of value, you may find a timber building is limited on getting contents insurance. Instead of timber cladding why not use a cement or composite board type cladding. Then do what you said build the frame clad it and raise it.

Dig out after, get it nice and flat, then it’s a nice surface to set out on, shallow trench, re level and compact. Others will I’ll probably say put them in first, but 600mm is a lot of stone, that will put your ducts very deep and may make for some awkward angles coming up through the slab.

OFFS. IS THIS APRIL 1st.

Buy a top loader, my neighbour who is disabled has one, no bending at all.

I would think that if you insulate it too well you may find the woodburner unbearable to have lit how big is the cabin? we are fitting woodburners into cabins that we rent out, but they are badly insulated, I think if I increase it too much the occupiers will probably need to keep the door open. We have a woodburner in the house we live in now and find that with the oven on also on a Sunday evening we have to open the back door to let some cold in.

I have been wondering this also.

Why not, that’s exactly what you would have done if you had of created a drop down in your slab before you poured it, you are just creating the drop down after the pour, abit backwards for a new build, but exactly what you would do for a Reno. Have you not thought of forming your sloped section like @Onoff did by hand with some shutters as a guide. I will I’ll be leaving 3 lower sections in my floor and hand forming the trays ready to tank. It really isn’t very hard.

If you fit that I will come up there and rip it out with my bare hands. Stop worrying and do it properly

It really depends on you and how you use your house. Our last house had a large en-suite connected directly to the bedroom, no door nothing, the thought of somebody doing a no2 in there whilst their partner was present just doesn’t happen, en-suite for a nighttime wee and a shower not for no2s. When we sold that house we had a dozen views from Australians who didn’t bat an eyelid, however the few English that viewed found it very odd that there wasn’t a door. Really depends on lifestyle.

If you have aluminium windows, I believe they shouldn’t be in contact with the concrete i seem to remember being a corrosion issue.

There have been some pretty bad reports on MGO board, do a bit more research.

Cut the disc larger than the light fitting, spray the same colour as fitting so it looks like part of the light, easy Peasy.