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Russdl

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Everything posted by Russdl

  1. Without a doubt, SketchUp. For the lay 'person' it is (IMHO) the best way to visualise what your future house will be like, all in glorious 3D. It takes a while (well, it did for me) to get to grips with it, but when you get the hang of it's incredible. CAD is beyond me, I've tried and failed, but what CAD can't do (can it?), is show those intricate details, just beyond that 'section' drawing. The joints and the corners, where the roof and gable end meet the wall (or can it?). For me it was probably most useful in designing our recessed blinds, how that all comes together, up in the corners and with the cladding etc etc would have been mighty difficult/expensive without me spending numerous late nights knobbing around with SketchUp and realising where gaps would be and it just wouldn't have worked based on the limited information contained in a sectional drawing. And it's free.
  2. Sorry, haven't read the whole thread in detail but we have tilt and turn inward opening windows, and sliders. Not lived there yet as it's a work in progress. We went with Internorm because they undercut the next best by a large figure (which we thought at the time were Norsken for what we we wanted) which made it a no brainer. The windows/sliders seem to be spot on, but it's too early to say definitely. Thats the windows. The installation was a shambles, and it looks so simple. With enough muscle around to lift the things, we're I to do it again I'm pretty sure I'd opt to fit them myself (is that permitted??) We had the installations manger on site. I'm not sure he'd read any installation instructions. Aftersales is reasonable. They will come back and and refit a window vertically instead of at a jaunty angle. They will come back and move a window to the correct position in the timber frame. They will come back and re-do the mastic on all the windows that look like it's been applied by a three year old (that's the ones where they arrive unglazed and the glazing is fitted on site, sliders, picture windows, etc.)
  3. I bought a Dewalt laser level a few months ago, can't recall the model number but it was a self levelling one, circa £80. Didn't really have a clear idea what I was going to use it for but it's invaluable: Checking up on shoddy window installation, running a line round the outside of the house so that the first floor cladding stopped at the same height all around, checking the dips and bumps in our power floated slab etc etc. No idea about the cheap detectors but I think I'm definitely in the market for the DeWalt detector that goes with my laser level.
  4. Ours is being struck on Thu, I’m out of the country. My main defence is my good lady being on site to scare them into being bloody careful. I hope it’s enough! I guess you could get a load of OSB to try and protect them if you feel there is a risk - we haven’t...
  5. It would make your existing speakers redundant but a few Naim Mu-so’s scattered around the house will tick every other box... apart from the price... https://www.naimaudio.com/product/mu-so-1st-generation
  6. Thats the plan Nick. The idea of the box was to have a much greater surface area for the filter so as not to restrict the airflow too much, the boxes in the link you provided would seem to filter the air as the duct enters the box. I have no idea but wouldn’t that potentially restrict the airflow too much?
  7. Thanks. Seems like I'll have quite a choice of pre filter material to choose from. I'd better get on and make the boxes.
  8. That looks like a great idea, I especially like the washable aspect. My fledgling plan has the duct from the external vent entering the box horizontally and a separate duct then leaving the box vertically (en-route to the MVHR) with a pre filter horizontally mounted between the two. When I open the door to (Pandora’s) box I will be able to inspect/clean the horizontal duct to the external vent, and slide out the pre filter to clean it. It seems great in my head...
  9. Sounds like its a goer then, I'll get cracking. ? @Conor Do you know exactly where/how that coarse filter is fitted?
  10. My MacBook Air has been running Skectchup since mid 2013 without a hitch and I have some very detailed models. The more textures and layers you use the slower it gets.
  11. My MVHR vents will be going through the gable end and the current terminal of choice has a very coarse mesh that may stop a horse, but not a horsefly, which means the horsefly will be stopped by the main filter within the MVHR unit. I was thinking of making a couple of large boxes to go inside the thermal envelope, positioned just after the ducts enter the thermal envelope and just before the MVHR unit. Within the boxes I would have a fine filter (net curtain, stockings?) that is easily accessible and cleaned and will keep the horseflies out of my MVHR unit. Has anyone done such a thing? If the home made filter box is airtight enough is this a viable plan?
  12. We've got some fairly tricky little areas to 'mesh' and noticed the roofers using EPDM sponge under the ridge as an insect mesh. This would be ideal for our needs and I've found a supplier who will cut a 2000x1000x50 sheet into 50mm strips so we'll end up with 50x50x2000 strips of the EPDM sponge to squeeze into a 30mm gap and let it expand and do it's job. Does any one see a fatal flaw in this plan before I go for it? Here's a small section of the sponge the roofers used (the stuff I'm looking at is flat, not undulating).
  13. What on earth are they? Isn't that something to do with wine making? (Google says its a game of some description)
  14. @lizzie Thanks Lizzie, I guess it's looking tip-top. How long has it been on?
  15. Never heard of it! Everyday is still a school day. Sounds horrible...
  16. Thanks @Mr Punter It will have to be on render carrier board. Does that mean 'use a cement render and paint it'?
  17. @nod Thanks, and the "too much movement - it WILL crack" comments, are they unfounded?
  18. We are experiencing lots of teeth sucking regarding render and timber frames, which is a bit of a worry as we planned on the ground floor of our timber frame new build being rendered. We've had comments from numerous individuals which sum up to something like "you shouldn't render on a timber frame, far too much movement'" etc. Looking through BH it looks like there are plenty of MBC frames out there with render, is it lasting well? Is there a preferred system that will look crisp and smart for decades and can you invisibly repair it should the need arise? Is there a system to avoid at all costs?
  19. @Stones @Declan52 thanks for that feed back, it seems more 'quality' issues than 'performance' issue then.
  20. I'm in the process of choosing our MVHR unit and whilst scouring this resource for insight I found the above comment from @Stones. Stones, would you elaborate on why you would look for something other than the Vent Axia if you were to do it again?
  21. @JSHarris Excellent. Just that little tip is probably going to save £50 going in to the swear jar!
  22. I'm resurrecting this thread in the search for advice on getting cables through the timber frame, we clearly are not so far along the build process as @ragg987 , our MBC timber frame has only just gone up but we have no cellulose insulation yet. There are various places where we would like outside lights, power for blinds and sockets etc. What is the best way to do it? Just get a chuffing great long drill (as per @JSHarris) drill a pilot hole all the way through the frame and then a hole saw inside and outside and slide the conduit in, or is that old school and there is an even smarter way of doing it these days?
  23. That's good thinking, I'll file that one away for future reference. ?
  24. Just holding the GRP in place.
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