Russdl

B*ggery b*llox. Well, it looks like my repair has failed. I’ll have to dismantle it in the morning to confirm. I wonder if it’s a software issue and the motor keeps trying to turn in the same direction after the flapper has reached its movement limit??

Doesn’t it just! Mind you, I suppose the thing we have done is invest in a battery, the VPP could not exist without that.

You can, but under current tariffs why would you? Axle buy it for £1/kWh, if I need to buy it back at peak rate it’ll cost me around 30p/kWh so effectively I’ve only got 70p/kWh instead of the whole £1. That’ll do nicely.

All good here, signed up beginning of May (£25), one referral bonus (£25) and total export credit to date £105.73 from Axle. I do nothing, just let it get on with its thing when it wants to. I normally get around £5:50 per 1hr event and £11:00 per 2hr event, only had one of those so far.

Back up and running, fault code cleared. It’s a real mystery. It does a lot of moving during power up, half open, half closed, fully open, fully closed finally reverting to fully closed (or the other way around, but a lot of moving nonetheless). I’d add a video but it’s too big, is that 2MB limit a new thing? Or have my pictures/videos got bigger??

I’ll keep an eye on that but I’m sure it’s been opening and closing a fair bit over the summer, I generally just leave it to do its thing but if I select ‘night ventilation mode’ I’m pretty sure selects the bypass open, I’ll have to check the manual. Anyway, all glued up so I’ll chuck it back together and hope for the best, if it fails I think I’ll get a flapper thingy 3d printed because I don’t suspect Brink we’ll sell me just that little bit.

It certainly does and certainly is. I just can’t fathom why there would be any resistance to the flapper moving.

Clearly the motor has rotated, probably during the power up after I’d cleaned the filters, but the flapper was stuck so the motor broke out of the plastic moulding. What ‘stuck’ the flapper is the mystery.

Agreed Dave. Turns out I’ve found the problem. That little bit of plastic has broken off the bypass flapper thingy allowing the motor to rotate without moving the flapper. I shall superglue it back together, actually I’ll probably superglue the flapper to the motor, I don’t think the flapper needs to be removable from the motor. The only good thing is how easy it is to work on this Brink.

Crikey! That was easier than falling off a log. No obvious signs of impairment though so I guess I’ll just give it a quick clean (it’s not really dirty) bung it back in and hope for the best.

Looks like I may have found the answer to my second question, and I don't even need to brush up on my French

F*ckety f*ck. I've just changed the filters in the MVHR and after switching it back on all seemed normal but I've now got the little spanner symbol and 'Error E103' on the MVHR display. The full message is: Error E103 E1200 Bypass General Error The manual makes no mention of E103 but has the following to say regarding the E1200 code: Does any one know anything else about the E103 code? Does anyone know how I get at the Bypass to see where it is and what it is or isn't doing? Any other pearls of wisdom will be gratefully received as well.

Cor! Looks very much like it is indeed Eurocell. Thanks very much @BotusBuild I’ll pass that on 👍🏻

A friend of mine is extending his property and is trying to get matching facia and soffits. Does anyone know what this type is called or where it can be purchased? TIA.

A Minimax here (rebadged Harvey). No issues. No power requirements. Also, our un-softened kitchen supply is ‘conditioned’ with a Combimate to stop the kitchen hard water supply doing any damage to the Quooker etc.

Our kitchen units have this, I think it’s a very intelligent way to deal with unnoticed spills, leaks etc. 5 or so years on, ours are not causing us any issues and in all honesty I’d forgotten they were there until you posted, no dirt collecting etc. Aside from you (because you’ve seen them) no one else will notice. It looks like yours have been done well, I’d be happy with that.

@Mr Punter yep, all cut to size. Each one 100mm shorter than the previous. The longest/heaviest was 30kgs so very easy to move around.

For comparison if it helps, in Jul 23 I got 18 cold rolled C section joists delivered, all different sizes (7.4m down to 5.3m) for £1552. And they’re relatively light.

Definitely readily available, find your local metal fabricator or order direct on line. As for span tables they must be out there, I however relied on the professional help of an SE (Gus Potter of this Parish in my case) to do those calculations for me.

I used galvanised C section joist and timber firings for my almost flat garage roof. Maximum width of 7m reducing to 5m.

Yep, we went with the similar Phantom Screens, I cant remember where we found them, either the NSBRC or a www search. Wouldn't be without them.

@RedRhino do you have external shading for your windows/doors? External shading and a (very manual) ventilation strategy is without a doubt what does the trick for us in keeping the house at a comfortable temperature throughout these little heatwaves that keep turning up. We only have heating downstairs and no cooling of any description. No heat pump either so the cold UFH utilised by many here is not an option for us but, fortunately, that has not been a requirement either. (So far 🤞🏻)

If you make it easily put up-able and take down-able it shouldn’t be a massive issue. Big heat (strong sun) normally coincides with high pressure which normally coincides with slack wind. At least that used to be the norm.

If it’s just temporary then an old sheet will do, anything that will stop the sun hitting the glass will do. Long term, the sheet is probably not the best option.

The suspense is killing me!