Cpd

Ok looks like gumtree will be my friend when the time comes, thanks for your input. Cpd

So after some discussion with my aging parents we have decided that the best thing moving forward is to bring them to live with me, I have an empty cottage that is available and it’s right next door to me so that’s very convenient. I will want to make various alterations to make it old people friendly and one of the big issues is the stairs. I do not want to spend thousands on a stair lift that will become redundant when my parents pass on…. My preference would be buying second hand. I am sure @Onoff could come up with a home made contraption and at the end of the day I am open to ideas as it’s all very new to me. I am just wanting to hear any advice people may have about moving this project forward over the next 12 months. Thanks. Cpd

Well that’s 13:55 minutes of my life I am not getting back………..

Rushing out of door…….

Any photos ?

No way that would pass by my local firearms officer, I thought it had to be bolted to a solid external wall.

Looking great, lovely site and in my eyes what a “self build” is all about.

Absolutely right i would use a wire brush on a small grinder, much easier to control and more efficient. needle guns are GREAT but you need a decent compressor to run them effectively. I am at this point right now, I have a cottage that I am going to convert for my parents, it’s always had exposed stone walls but I am looking at insulating them all……. I will have the conversation with them but I just don’t like the idea of huge cold bridges sucking out the heat….. I repointed them so carefully years ago and it’s going to be a shame to loose the “look” but great to see my electric bill go down ! i like to really show the stone of when pointing and brush back the mortar, I prefer to paint it afterwards as I don’t like the natural look !

As @joe90 says round are of the peg and last longer.

Just buy some creosote treated timber gate posts from your local agricultural fencing supply company. Will last 25+ years.

Just buy a roll of high tensile fencing wire, attach at one end, roll out and tension at the other end and tension it….

I used the same flashings on my tin roof and went with the 30mm gap, no way water is going to track back under the tin ! It’s obviously wrong on your roof and needs fixing, seen so many badly fitted roofs around velux windows……l

Not an expert on the regs but I would say that’s a really good set up as it makes cleaning really easy.

Reminds me of when I was a wee lad and I got told to clean the car by my parents to earn my pocket money, I cleaned with soap and water but there was bits of tar stuck all over the paint work so I had a rummage under the sink until I found a green scouring pad……. If I rubbed the scouring pad really hard on the little spots of tar they eventually came off……. As did most of the top layer of paint. Needless to say I was never asked to clean the car again.

Not sure I follow, can you draw a picture. Are you using the tee as a way of cleaning the flue ?

I just use baby wipes and then a standard glass cleaner / polish …… I find it hard to believe that the glue on the tape can penetrate the glass….. are the windows coated in something fancy ?

I have done 4 bathrooms with the multi panel and I really like it, it goes up really well and is very solid. Not had experience with the others.

Standard practice with home grown food, at least I know what I can see on my garden veg, I wonder what unseen bacteria and chemicals are on shop stuff……

By the time you batten and then counter batten I think either will work fine, not quite sure which one will hide any movement better……. If it was me and I had the budget ( I don’t) I would go slate but that’s going to be soooooo much more expensive than a tin roof. I now just use tin as it’s so cheap and quick and is great quality these days.

Sounds grand, it’s all pretty straight forward and it’s easy to work with, tape the junctions and try to put them where they will get sandwiched between frame work and battens or plasterboard. I have seen it in both semi transparent clear and semi transparent green…… not sure what the difference is beyond the colour !

For my vcl I just use light weight plastic sheeting designed for this purpose….. it’s really easy to handle and is a lot cheeper than DPM

As an example….. I have 50mm PIR sheeting on the inside of my roof joists (over the ends) 170mm rockwool between them on the cold side, I have found it to be very effective and when I stick my hand between the PIR and the rockwool it is toasty warm….. now I am no expert but I am assuming rock wool actually stores a lot more warm air than PIR and if the rockwool can be made to work on the warm side without causing condensation build up on the PIR then I think you could be onto a winner….. yes 70mm of PIR between the joists would give you better performance on paper but (and this is just my observation……) you would miss out on how rock wool performs by storing heat within its layers, ( I am well out of my depth in technical terms and knowledge now) I just think that 100mm of PIR bellow the joists will be your main insulator and the fully filled joists with rock wool will solve your problem about pipes and it can easily be compressed from the top so that it does not interfere with your UFH and subsequent floor layers. personally I don’t think that rock wool suspended below the floor joists will be as effective. anyway this is just me chucking some ideas around……. They need verification !

In the perfect world you would put 100mm or less of PIR below the joists and fill the rest with rockwool, however it’s always recommended that the most breathable insulation goes on the cold side and then the less breathable materials on the inside. BUT I have recently seen a new build where they put PIR on the outside and rockwool on the inside……if this can be confirmed as acceptable then this would be an easy and cost effective way to do it.

As above, the boards need to be independent to move as needed, it’s pretty easy to pre drill a hole in the centre of the top batten so that your nail has the best chance of going through the joint in the boards below, should it miss it will only go through the very edge of the lower boards and any spitting due to expansion and contraction will be hidden behind the top batten. I have done the back of my cabin like this and it’s been up for over six years without any boards spitting, the same with my shiplap single line nailing, totally stable after 6 years with absolutely no splitting. All the holes on both the shiplap and vertical cladding are pre drilled, the shiplap are oversized by a mm to allow a tiny bit of movement. I have seen lots of board on board with spitting and cupping and that’s why I use this system - it works and has not failed me yet and I like the look.

wise words I feel……