Cpd

I have been mulling this over for some time as I also have an old stone building that I am renovating, no DPM in the wall but DPM coming up from the floor I laid, 5 years ago I had intended to extend the floor DPM one meter up the wall on the inside to prevent any water ingress but am concerned this will attract condensation…. The project stalled 5 years ago so nothing has happened and last I looked it was actually now very dry……. I thought about swapping out the black plastic for something like building wrap / roof membrane but am now just thinking that if it’s dry I should not over think it and just ignore it ….. build the stud work, insulate between and over the studs, vcl and then board it out…… my own house has a vented void between the inside stone wall and stud work with internal insulation over the top, the stone walls are damp behind the studwork but it’s vented and is still standing over 100 years later so I just left it alone and moved onto the next job….. i think you need to eliminate and water ingress from above, clear anything around the outside of the building that may be stopping air flow and scrape away damp earth and vegetation to clean subsoil / sand and see what happens, i did all this to my site as well as power washing both the outside and inside of the walls to leave very clean stone and no loose mortar, i then repointed and left it for 5 years…..(not intended) but it’s all now very dry. my walls are the typical outside stone, rubble core and inside stone - walls about 6-700mm gables 1000mm

This is not always the case, I have a gable wall that was repointed with cement instead of lime and it’s a disaster…. It is very well vented on the inside but it’s like a sponge now. The only way forward for me is to either re point the wall or clad it. @Bex don’t rush into making a decision, continue to look into the matter and be 100% sure of what is needed before laying out hard earned cash.

I made my own doors and I am a stonemason NOT a joiner and I would be frustrated with myself if I produced this. Yes it’s a really good attempt and if you had done it yourself you could live with it and chalk it down to good learning but this is a meant to be a professionally made and installed door that probably cost more than my car. As much as a full refund would be nice I expect the write of cost for the joiner will be to much for him to stomach and he will drag his feet before finally just refusing to accept it’s below par. As Gus says you might get a significant (25%- 40% max) discount but that does not resolve the problem in your eyes. Very tricky situation.

I dropped out of running my business in Australia 10 years ago and purchased a run down property in the middle of nowhere…. I work away for two solid months of the year and make the rest of my income from renting out accommodation to visitors. I need to get another building finished and available to rent before I am of the breadline but the quality of life is excellent, I wake up and the day is mine, everything i do is about maintaining or improving the property I live on, if I work hard my goals get closer, if i work less then it’s more relaxing. It’s a good life and I hope I never have to go back to working 9-5.

This is a really good bit of advice, my cabin is tiny but I have the kitchen tagged on as a separate room as well as the shower also tagged on separately, this means that both the kitchen and shower can have good extraction and be well vented and your not getting excess moisture and smells in the living / sleeping area. Creating something small and unique will be far more attractive as a selling point than just a standard shepherds hut or square box…. Quirkiness can be tagged on at the end but would be far better if designed in at the begging, it’s what catches peoples eye when they are scanning through the endless list of accommodations, it definitely works for me as I am getting over 100 people a day clicking on my page and it’s only January ? and I don’t open until April!

And one in the kitchen as well, it could be a Quick fix, this is what I did in my rental and it sorted out the problem, yes you loose heat but the air is dryer and dry air is easier to heat than wet air…. I don’t mind paying a bit more for electric as long as the lace is clean and mould free. Insulating all cold faces is another very good way at reducing damp.

i am not up to date with the regs but I think all you need to do is be able to show that theoretically it can be moved, is this not what @Crofter did, and comply to the size restrictions…..

There are various resources out there that might give you some ideas, I see this lot on Facebook quite a bit, may be worth following up - I do not subscribe, I just like the stuff I have seen on Facebook- https://tinyhousemagazine.co/?fbclid=IwAR16mUA1XbYlxNUXUJFMFBF-89Yk6IvFr2MlF8_yz08rpG0zqL_MSRyto50 what is your budget ? As soon as you start paying professionals your budget will start to fall - fast ! i have done various projects and have a very small cabin that I rent out which is very successful. I am in a similar position where demand outstrips supply and I can’t see this changing soon, if your in an enviable position then then do the sums, if you can make £10-20k a year then use this in working out what your prepared to invest to get things up and running ASAP rather than doing it on a shoestring budget and taking longer. my market is singles and couples, i don’t allow kids ! can your house electric supply cope with the additional requirements. lots of basic stuff to work out before you get to involved in design.

Looks really good….. got it sitting in my Amazon shopping basket next to https://www.delonghi.com/en-gb/ecam22-110-b-magnifica-s-automatic-coffee-maker/p/ECAM22.110.B However this one first came out in 2011 and the one you linked came out in 2021 so probably benefits from more modern improvements.

I have done both, one I created a shelf as this looked better and was more functional as the window is quite low down, the others I have done to maximise light as they are higher, not seen them with splayed sides….

I am another coffee lover and for years I had a Delonghi caffe corso but left it with my partner when we went our separate ways, it’s still working and now is 8 years old. I moved into a small space and went with a compact BEKO but would not recommend this…. I will be upgrading to a Delonghi magnifica but have yet to decide which model so will be following this thread ! - just to add I am also a black coffee drinker and would prioritise the quality of the coffee and the crema it produces over a fancy milk frother.

Are there not rads specifically designed to work with the lower temperatures that ASHP provided……. I hope so as this is where I am heading…..

This is what I would do, you could easily take 50mm back without a drama and then go 50mm PIR and plasterboard stuck to that.

?? ……. Well you can scrub that of the “to do list”

This is where I got to and you also have the cost of maintenance to consider, I will look into it again in the years to come but for now I will keep adding insulation!

Maybe try tracking down a local saw mill that have there own equipment for preserving timber, failing that could you not just treat it yourself ? Have you considered addressing the cold wall to eliminate this problem ? Could it be insulated? Limited information on the bigger picture so hard to advise but addressing the cold areas would be my priority.

Use OSB…… or sarking

Great stuff and good progress ?

i should know this but why is the air gap so important @nod is it just to do with the reflective property of the PIR boards ?

My ex partner lives in the house and claims family tax credits to top up the care work she does, just being on the register made her eligible and as I do not charge her rent I did not have to pay towards the upgrade.

Just had 75mm of PIR backed plasterboard put on my internal walls and it’s made an amazing difference, still a long way from perfect but it was a free government instal so not to be sneered at. The house is very old traditional Scottish two up two down with stone walls air gap and wood panelling on the inside, the installers used a both foam glue and screw fixings to to attach the sheets straight to the wood panelling and the plasterer came in a few weeks later and did a fine job covering up all obvious imperfections. I am a fan of PIR over rockwool when space is a premium and you can control the detailing but rockwool is a lot more forgiving if detailing is going to be a problem.

This sounds a bit steep …… but maybe you have a very BIG bungalow ?

Great advice above, can’t see from the photos but need to check the wall plate, I expect it will be in average condition and may need repairs or replaced if it’s anything like mine…..

If all the other buildings have concrete tiles and yours is the odd one out is it worth considering this as a reason to go concrete? my own roof is 120 years old (local Scottish slate) and was classed as a write off 10 years ago when I got the place, I just keep replacing slates each year as I can do it myself and quite like doing it…… can’t afford to re do it so just keep kicking the job into the long grass…….

@Caddy interesting to read your post as I am having to plan something very similar with a small stone cottage that I want “ready” for my ageing parents should the need arise in the next few years……. I won’t ramble on about my situation as it’s a mirror image of yours and I am still in the late stages of contemplation…… I will be adding DHW to the ASHP and just insulating the hell out of the tank as my parents are also minimal hot water users but want to future proof the system. I got my ASHP of eBay some years ago so will be doing a self instal (where possible) and not claiming RHI.