Conor

Yes. wall plate was something like 150x100mm C24. The guy doing the roof had them chamfered and planed to suit in his workshop. Yeah, they are something like 200x10mm thunderbolts driven in to the set concrete. Every 600mm I think. They spent a lot of time chiseling away and filling in the top of the concrete core. When you're doing your last pour, make sure the guys trowel and float the top of the concrete nice and smooth and flat. I think the two guys spent at least a full day tidying up. If I'd known that was needed, an extra hour with a float when the concrete was wet would have saved me £500 of extra labour.

Nothing under, as we used a SIPs type roof system, we used airtight foam between the wall plate and panels. then foam in the gap and finally a good wide strip of airtight paint at the join between wall and roof panel. Obviously totally different from what yu are doing!!

We have a Bosch serie 6 washer drier. Would not reccomend it - very noisy and bounces around on full spin. Had them come out an look at it as they say it's because it's sitting on a timber floor and would be better on concrete. Load of carp but they say the machine is fine. Our whole mezzanine shakes in full spin.

Self drilling screws might work if the steel is thin enough. Pilot hole helps. Out of interest, how much insualtion are you putting in? Only looks 25mm battens? Assuming insualtation boards over them, then plasterboard?

Ha, best thing is you'll need get to the stage where you're painting walls and you'll still be making changes 😜 Our kitchen is open to the rest of the house, BC won't allow this, you'll need to close it off somehow. Planners might have an issue with the balconies. Be prepared to drop them if needs be. It's a good fit to the plot. Is that an existing entrance or new one? You look close to a road junction/laneway? Windows don't look right at all. What going on with the roof? That's a lot of skylights. Is this your design or an architect's?

Correct answers: 1. That's for your SE to decide. 2. That's for your SE to decide. Guesswork: 1. For that kind of opening, highly unlikely a single steel resting on existing 300mm nib wall will do, I'm almost certain your SE will spec a letterbox (portal) frame. 2. Dig a trial hole at the corner of the house with your SE present, they will then determine. Cost less than £1k. If this is a relatively new build, then I assume the footings were out in at that depth for good reason and BC will likely request you do the same.

We used 100mm stone, anything smaller and the lorries just spin their wheels if there is any kind of slope.

@SuperJohnG you don't need a blending valve. You set the better set temp to a couple degrees above what you need for the UFH. Mine is set to 34c to deliver 30-32c at the manifold. My setup is roughly: Flow from ASHP goes to plant room, three way valve then splits flow to either the HWC or buffer. Return pipe from HWC and buffer connect and return to the ashp. Pump on the buffer sends flow to the UFH manifolds via 28/22mm pipe. Controls. Hot water demand is set by the DHW stat and the ASHP controller. Nothing to do with the UFH. Heating demand comes from the wiring centre, sends signal to ashp to start running, opens valves depending on zone calling and starts the main pump and appropriate buffer pump. Ashp heats water and modulates to the stat temp in the buffer, ramping down as target temperature approaches. As ahsp don't "fire" when your UFH stats call for heat, the ashp wake up from standby regardless and start getting pumps going etc etc. At least mine does. So it's always pumping to the buffer when there is demand. Don't know if all ashps do this tho . You'll not need the heating past March or so, heating up time of the buffer isn't an issue.

It's not telling you to conduct a soil investigation, it says in the event of "suspected" contamination, you need to adhere to the noted guidence. Of course, how you come to the decision that there is "suspected" contamination is not clearly defined, so unless you find lumps of asbestos, or the reek of pretroluem, I don't see why this would be an issue. Crack open a beer.

No, but would have saved me HOURS messing around with blocks of compactfoam. Wouldn't expect them to be cheap tho.

Yes, plus is nicer to work with and has much higher load bearing capacity - remember on an insulated raft the insulation has to take the loadings from the entire building.

The critical issue here is not the type of AAV, it's the location. It needs to be on the same stack as the toilet as that's where the vacuum will be generated, i.e. behind the toilet, so the AAV needs to be on the same pipe and "upstream" and above. A sketch would help here to see where the sink is in relation to the toilet.

As nod says, put in 150mm and thinner screed if needed. 150mm is really the min you want really.

As I said on the other similar thread, some lenders don't ask for a warranty, so check with a broker before shelling out £ks.

I've three 18mm holes to drill through a beam with 7mm web. Obvious choice is a mag drill but I cannot justify the cost (drill hire, transformer, annular bit) for just three holes. So, 18mm HSS twist drill, TCT holwsaw or traditional bimetal holwsaw? Thinking this: https://amzn.eu/d/h48Y2ur I'd thought of a HSS bit, but then I'd need to buy a 12, 14 and 16 as well ideally. Also, I've approx 80(!!!) 9mm holes to drill, as per below. The 80mm SHS is already welded to the 203UC. Don't see any other option other than using extra long HSS bits (4, 6, then 9mm) in a normal drill. I doubt I could drill the flange from below. I do have a portable stand/press that I can clamp. Any other smart thoughts?

I'd say so, if they are still offering the product. Go through a broker (we used mortgage shop) and give them your criteria and needs. Once you hit the two year mark after signoff you then access a whole load more products. A two year with virgin now is probably your best bet, then remortgage (at a lower rate) once you pass the two year mark.

Yes, straight up, with a little side to side wiggle.

@pocster how are you getting on with the doorbell? Does it work ok with the cloud apps etc? Don't suppose you have it linked to an NVR?

Mesh is the way to go, with LAN backhaul. I've a TP link Deco 5 setup and it's excellent.

You're in Donegal, you'll not need to worry about active cooling. We used ours for a few days in the July heatwave and that was it. You'll not need much in the way of external shading either. Spend your money on better glazing instead, and dont put too much on your southern elevation. PHPP told us we needed all sorts of shading, was coming out at £6k. We winged it and didn't bother, depeened window reveals a bit, extended a couple roof over hangs and seems to have coped well. Fact is, even if you do get really high daytime temps, that close to the Atlantic you'll easily be able to cool the house down in the evening by opening a couple big windows. And on the odd occasion that's not enough, your UF cooling will do the job, and just set it manually to during the day and your PV will run it for free! Makes no sense at all to spend thousands on shading and shutters. In our coolenergy system it's all setup and programmed to go, just a matter of selecting the cooling mode on the control and setting the timer. Don't worry about controlling it with room stats or anything, just have it on from 11am to 6pm and let it do its thing, it won't get too cool as your flow temp will be 12c or so.

Just pull it hard, it's how mine work, took me bloody ages to figure it out.

An insulated slab is fairly simple tbh, and any ground works company with somebody that can follow instructions should be able to manage it.

Similar situation to us, basement is a great bonus and don't regret it. We came in at £1300m² but that was a lot of work from ourselves and me taking fair bit of time off work. And we finished a year ago, prices are still going.up. Budget for £2k m² and hope to come in lower.

From my coursory searches I didn't see any jumping out that had IP rating. They will be under a 2m deep fully waterproof overhang so I could chance an indoor one.

@Sparrowhawk how do you find the IR panels compared to the old fashioned radiant (glowing red hot) heaters that you find outside a pub? We've a covered patio area and I'm thinking the IR panels are a better option than the incandescent filament type heaters. Latter is a no go really.