Conor

I used bituminous paint on all of our door thresholds and not one issue.

It sounds like you are talking about heating rather than ventilation? An MVHR doesn't have zones, air flows through the building from supply point to extract point. That's how they are designed to operate. View it as a flowing stream through your house. Water flowing from bedrooms to bathrooms etc.. if you shit off or reduce one of these points, you mess up the flow through the whole building. You have different flow rate modes for different circumstances. Right now, ours is on a low rate eco mode, to reduce heat loss and drying effect.

I've mine set for running all day, ending at 4pm. In reality it does 90% of its recharging overnight on cheap rate. Maybe a top-up middle of the day. Plans to get rid of your electric showers? Costing you 2-3x more than your ashp water. Not sure what the different settings mean, in my heatpump eco means weather compensation mode and flow temp is set for best COP. On fill mode the heatpump will push out the max required flow temp, regardless of the return flow or outdoor temp.

You're over thinking it. You don't want to reduce flow to rooms, the building needs to be continuously ventilated as a whole system. When you shut off a valve, the flow rate just increases at other valves, the fan speed stays the same (generally). You're just adding cost, complexity and work!

Don't worry about NIE, if they can give you an 80amp or 100amp connection then ASHP won't be an issue. Tell em naffin. When I did our connection card the max theoretical load was only 48amp... And that includes a 7kW car charger.

Zones are not turned off or on. It's a continuous system. If a high rate is required, fan speeds adjust accordingly and ventilation rates at all outlets / extracts change proportionally. When commissioning, flow rates are set at each terminal at the standard fan setting to what the design requires. This is done by adjusting the aperture at each outlet

Welcome. We finished our ICF house in Co. Down March 2022. 315m², passive levels insulation, 4.5pkW of solar PV, 9kW ASHP. Super cosy house. Electric for the year was £1200. Definitely don't miss a fire /burner in the slightest. ICF, good build method, tho not many builders here doing it, just the three or four. Don't see any advantage of woodcrete tbh. For the love of god don't put in bottled gas. ASHP is the way to go, and you'll have no bother with NIE as highly likely the one you put in will only have a max load of ~4kW.

We've the PVC as well. Don't see why you would want wood, unless for the look or you wanted a different colour.

We stuck on 50mm PIR then alu flashing over. Out posts were only 80mm tho and set back so minor surface area. Build out the insualtion, foam and gaps, tape up, until the right depth just to be covered by the flashing.

Could be 3-way valve not wired up properly and the heatpump flow is going through the cylinder coil instead of directly to the heating circuit. In practice means the hot wat tank will be cooled to the flow temp set for heating, e.g. 35c, rather than the usual 50c or whatever for hot water.

What's at the other end of the gap? A piece of plastic trim? Looks like window is way too small. You'll want to rake all that out and get a plasterer in and put a new bead and build render to meet the frame.

Is this a full, proper loft conversion? Habitable room? Reason I ask is the original joists may not be up to the job and thicker floor boards might not make a difference.

45c min. We had our setpoint at 40c. When it got that low it wasnt hot enough for the likes of a bath. Now have it set qr 42c.

We have a three story icf house with concrete floors. We use four Deco mesh units. One in the basement that acts as the gateway. It's wired in to our network switch. We have one unit in the middle of the ground floor, and two upstairs, one in bedroom and one in the office. All supplied by the network points. Works perfectly. 120mbs WiFi throughout the house and totally reliable and seamless. I would have a network point in all rooms.

We've our tank set to 45c. We've four thermostatic mixers. All work perfectly except one which doesn't go cold. Just very hot to warm. It is a complex concealed unit it just as likely that I didn't put it together quite right rather than an issue with water temp. If you have tank set to 46-48c, won't be an issue.

Bet you there is a jumper somewhere it shouldn't be. Have a look at the circuit diagram and see what jumper / dip switch options there are. I have a totally different heat pump but that's how I forced on the heating at the start, by a bit of copper wire between two contacts.

Holy sh1t, somebody followed my advice.

If it's a 165mm blade, go for 40t+. I use these. 24tfor ripping and first fix, 40t for fine. Trend CraftPro Triple Pack of Medium/Fine Finish TCT Saw Blades for DC390, DWE007, DCS391, DC391N Circular Saws, 165mm x 20mm Bore, 24 & 40 Teeth, Tungsten Carbide Tipped, CSB/165/3PK/C https://amzn.eu/d/hp07Ddg

Circular. Fine tooth blade. Brand new.

Or fit an PIR sensor to the lights.

Face down and use masking tape. Not sure how much the tape really works tho, bit no harm. For the cutting, high speed, low pressure.

If unvented yes, no Legionella risk with chlorinated mains water that's not exposed to atmosphere or contamination.

Dig the slab out and get a build up that has a min of 100mm insualtion (ideally 150-200mm). Now's the time to do it. What's the build up of the extension?

Our spark put in three fly leads (insinkerator, dishwasher and quooker) all on their own fused spur. Switches are in adjacent cupboard.

Save your money, cut out with a grinder - it'll all be hidden by the pan.