Conor

Yes, between the door block and screed.

What do you need done? There's not much servicing needed.

since this has been posted, my partner has moved the air fryer from the island and in to one of the larder units (has worktop in it) and relegated the coffee maker to the utility. See how it goes.

Did we have our house rendered when you visited? It's Sto, part silicate, part acrylic, can't fault it. If you need a renderer, I can pass you Kevin's details.

No, just meant a space for a countertop airfryer. I think we'll remove our second oven and set the airfryer there instead of on the island. Really no need for two ovens! We have our microwave in the pantry / utility and works out well.

UPS for a computer? How often does your power go out? Am I the only one who's power only goes off like once every 5 years, for a few mins?!

Kitchens are to be worked and lived in, not looked at. A hob on an island, with a sink, and oven behind / adjacent is a great arrangement. We've had about 4 different kitchens over the years, this arrangement is by far the best. Our induction hob is white, our worktop is white. Hardly notice it. Either way, don't get a gas hob.

Why? Keep the heras fencing until you've finished everything. You'd only have to remove the wooden fence again when you start the main phase.

What exactly do you mean by connected?

You can't. It'll be a grid tied system. So it's sitting there doing nothing until it's fully connected up.

1. Hope it's just the rendering, but really do not go for a high gloss finish. 2. Hob (induction, recirculating) in middle of island. Other wise what's the point of the island? 3. Go for side by side ovens at the correct level. What you have there is neither of them at an optimum level. 4. Do you need all the overhead units on the long run? At very least drop them where your sink will be. Always feels closed it and you will bang your head some day! 5.whats with the gap where the plates are? Looks like an ideal nook for an air fryer. One thing I miss in our kitchen.

Can't comment on price, but assume it needs to be replaced and negotiate a reduction in the purchase price accordingly. This topic comes up all the time, try a search.

Rent. Save your energy for building your home. You'll need it.

Put another 25mm insulation on, then UFH pipes, then 50mm screed.

What's your full floor build up?

Pedestal system e.g. Wallbarn. You can install them on well compacted stone + membrane and adjust as things move.

We've been wracking out brains for two odd years now and none the wiser. We're likely going for a bi-fold shutter type thing hinged on one side of the reveal. Gonna cost £2k

Said this a few times before, but if you can, install UFH in every room, including upstairs. It's the simplest and most cost effective solution (assuming run as a single zone.) if you don't need it, it's not taking up space and only cost a small amount of money. We did the for every room except one... And turns out to be too cold in winter and we need to use an electric oil heater.

If the door is sitting on a concrete beam/slab that's bridging from the outside to the inside, that easily explains the heat loss at the bottom. Can you remember the buildup?

you can lay your own 32m pipe from your internal stop cock up to where Thames will be replacing there comms pipe to. This will then downsize to 25mm at the meter box. Better than nothing. Have they confirmed that are replacing only to the property boundary or does their scheme go to your internal stop cock?

Modern toughened units don't tend to crack unless you hit them very hard with something like a lump hammer. The glazing unit is often the best thermal element of a door, so doesn't make sense to break them up with less efficient frame.

You could probably remove everything while leaving it in place. Take a bit out, prop it up, take the rest of it out, prop it up. Reverse the process when putting insulation down.

It'll be off a schedule of rates for the type of works, road, duration etc. they are making assumptions and taking all the risk. 3month notice will be a road closure. It's a fairly straightforward job and will be done before you know it.

We (the entire utilities industry) don't install meter boxes in driveways as they get f*cked up from traffic. That main is too close to the road to avoid closing it. You might get away with it, and probably could, but as a contractor I'd be playing it safe. A 15mm meter is standard for all residential connections. 25mm MDPE is as well for most scenarios.

You need 120mm. The concrete screws need a bit more depth compared to other anchors. I've used 100s of the things over the course of our build. Or, if you want to make life easier... Forget the 50mm batten and just fix each board on with something like this with a 5x50mm pan head screw. https://www.screwfix.com/p/simpson-strong-tie-reinforced-angle-brackets-galvanised-30mm-x-55mm-25-pack/652tj?ref=SFAppShare