Conor

Ours are del Carmen prime.

You need to contact the local water company, they might be the ultimate owners. Do not trust any drawing of any underground utility, or take anybody's word as reliable. It could be anything.

Are all you electric cables wired in to a modern consumer unit with RCBOs etc? Then I'd argue the risk of electrical file is minimal and if the ceiling is 30min rated then you're golden. We've only painted two of our steels, the main mezzanine steels are protected by 30min rated ceiling. The point of fire protecting steels is to ensure that the building stays up long enough for escape. A smouldering electrical cable isn't going to bother an RSJ.

What's the steel doing? Strictly only needs protection if it's supporting a means of escape. But otherwise, your BCO is correct, 30mins fire protection needed. Are you ceiling panels not easy to remove to get access?

Daily and weekly inspections can be done by any competent person. I.e. yourself. I only got the scaff company round when something needed to be changed.

Reduce to 25mm MDPE. You can then fit a 25mm tap. You don't need 32mm for a site supply. Do you need a double check valve? Surely if this is a new connection you'll have a modern meter box with integrated non return valve?

We've the Del Carmen and love them. Went through loads of samples. We paid £1.50 ex vat for ours, albeit three years ago, from local builders merchant.

Mine's fine, I meant the opposite of what I wrote 🤔

What was the issue with the doorbell? Ours is going wrong, but it's in a very sheltered spot which helps

No, which is why we went with virgin. We're ICF with 100mm EWI... I wasn't having somebody attempt to fit a box and ruin my lovely render.

What size is the gap? We had to go with a concrete door block for our bifold, so I left a 50mm gap between the screed and then lined the block in aerogel and laid the leftover compact foam in the gap. Foamed into place. Then underlay and laminate on top. Still a slight cold spot but no issues with the flooring. Oh and think I painted the door block in airtight paint as well at tape between the door frame and block.

@Gordo how old is your boiler and are you having any issues with it? Might be a case of waiting for something to go bang, then replace it with an ASHP. And for sizing an ASHP here in NI... A huge factor in performance is frosting. It's so bloody humid here, my pump struggles most around just above freezing. I'm in Holywood and I can count the number of frosts each year on my hands. We don't do cold and dry here. Worth a bigger heat pump just to mitigate that issue as that's when you'll be needing the heat the most.

I've a 2j Makita and a 5j Titan. The Titan is now never used. Very little the Makita can't do, unless hardcore demolition.

Do you have a shower tray or a former for tiling? If it's the latter, you'll have to tile the room. Our es, we have a former, and have the room tiled. Used a mapei tanking kit. Our basement bathroom has a ceramic tray and we've left in.

we went for 1200mm wide steps, 150mm rise, 350mm going. split with a 1200mm landing every third step. three sets in total then transitioning to a ramp / path. forms part of exit from house via balcony so has to be BC compliant. Feels fine to walk.

Easiest thing to do is to buy two lights, replace the original, wire up to original supply. Then run a new cable from the replacement light's terminals to the new light on the other corner. 1.5mm cable should be enough.

At 8mm gaps you won't see the fabric (unless right up close and square on) so I wouldn't bother. Here's a pic of my shipping container cladding, 25, 70, and 100mm boards, with 5-8mm gaps. Theres light grey membrane behind but you can't see it.

The company and their reviews are largely irrelevant. Of course they are going to tell you it's going to work, they are trying to get a sale. As other have pointed out, at times you could be sending a significant amount of the heat energy in to the ground. It's an incredible waste of energy and you can't get round the basic physics. However, it would be worth getting a hole drilled to see exactly what is under the slab. You can then calculate the direct heat losses and take it from there.

Don't. It simply won't work. 25mm insulation isn't near enough. You want 150mm. Stick to your existing radiators.

From the collective experience and wisdom here, the consensus is stick to standard, proven methods of construction. You have to take account of the what most builders and trades are used to working with. Start doing something unusual, and somebody down the line will cock something up.

What are you retaining and how high?

Evolution is great,.I've the 255mm one. For second fit stuff, get a 80tooth TCT blade instead. The multi purpose one does not cut smooth at all. But it does cuts like this....

Ground mounted?

You set yourself as both client, principle designer and possibly contractor as well. However, if you are getting a builder in to organise more than a single piece of work, they should be the principle contractor at the time they are working. We did it that way, the off guy was principle contractor until he left, then I assumed the responsibility as I was directly contracting people in. (CDM 2015, Northern Ireland)

Good luck. Definitely highly unusual to fit a door like this. It's not a terribly difficult fix either.