Conor

Why are you removing them? The best practice for asbestos is to leave it be. Will the window installers work involve them cutting/drilling in to the soffits?

App restarted itself last night and had to enter credentials again. Message saying site not communicating. Yet... Status LEDs on inverter show connected to monitoring platform (constant blue) Anybody have this or ideas to what is wrong if the inverter thinks everything is ok? I've not entered the inverter in commissioning mode yet.

Well done. I had to do this once with granite copings that didn't come with a drip groove. Horrible job. Learnt my lesson and we cut them before fitting this time round.

Quarry dust (0-5mm typically.) compacts and holds together better than paving sand.

Use a rainwater collection system for flushing toilets and watering garden. That'll slash you mains water usage. A borehole will have annual operating costs, and you take 100% of the risk if something goes wrong. It really is crazy the amount of effort that goes into treating water, for 90% not to be used for potable purposes.

Yes it's fine. It's normal for the water company to fit a meter box, leave a ~2m tail on the customer side, which you then connect to using a straight coupler.

Yes. Just timber and ply box a bit bigger than your intended shower tray. Need to carefully plan these things now. Will the floated concrete floor be your finished floor? If not, it's a simple matter of bringing the sewer pipe up to where the water trap will be and shuttering off a big enough area to fit the trap. A fall, if needed, can be done via tiling. Unless of course the concrete will be your finished floor, in which case all of the above is a complete pain.

1. The estimate of £2k is high. You'll find it'll come out less. The same works for us came in at a total of £2.k for the initial disconnection, relocation to kiosk, and final connection to house. You'll do the digging and ducting, the network's contractors will just do the cable side. You don't need 3ph, unless you plan on running simultaneous car chargers or having a very large PV array. 2. Ditch the gas entirely. You won't need a gas fire, and an induction hob is superior to a gas. Also means your ventilation works are simpler and your house is more airtight. Other than that, the existing supply would need to be found and isolated, then a new one fitted. Spend the saved £££ on more insulation. 3. Don't bother speaking to the water company. You own the pipe after the stopcock / meter box. Won't be hard to find. Before you demolish, find it, isolate the supply and just fit a tap on a post at your boundary and remove the old pipe. Then for the new house, you simply lay your new pipe and connect in to the old pipe at the boundary. Your ground works people will be able to do this. Ditto for the sewer connection. If your supply pipe turns out to be lead, apply for a new connection once you have completed all your works, it will be free. They'll then for a new connection from the main to your private pipe to edge of your property. 4. Internet. Nothing to do really until you are fully finished. Just lay a duct with draw rope to where the supplies will come in from. Virgin are useless, you need to tell them what to do. Don't worry about the existing supply, we ripped ours out with the digger as the concept of disconnecting a service did not seem to exist in their call handlers dictionary. Open reach will likely want an overhead service anyway. I carefully disconnected our phone cable and coiled the cable up. It was dead anyway.

Loads on here have done this with no issues. For shower areas, just shutter off the area. Do you need to have a drain in the middle of a room and then have a fall to it?! We've two bathrooms with walk in showers and didn't do anything like that.

Shipping container is perfect. I stuck a dehumidifier in ours on a timer for a couple of hours a night through the winter. Also some extra vents. Worked brilliantly

The spread of fire element seems to be the biggest issue to address, which can be done with the right cladding and roof material. Otherwise, looks to be well made. Keep asking questions! I needed up making mine out of concrete blocks with fire retardant fibreglass roof to comply. House since sold, and new owner uses it for his laser etching hobby/business. I did a basic soakaway to the RHS for the roof drainage. Worked well.

That'll be a building control fail and you might be asked to remove the building (if you are reported and it's enforced). Assume flat roof? Looks like it might be a tad over the max height of 2.5m? I'm assuming this is like a garden office / workshop and otherwise building regs exempt?

One issue, needs to be made out of largely noncombustible materials within 1m of a boundary.... So I assume you'll be cladding with some sort of fire resistant boards?

As you can see, there aren't enough specs or details. What's the wall construction? How much and what type of insulation? Ventilation? Go back to your designer and get it detailed out. But wait until you have planning granted. Because any drawing changes will cost a lot more.

Yes, if you have planning drawings they should be enough for a QS to get an estimate for financing purposes. That's what we did. For rendering for a builder, you'd want full building control / construction drawings from your designer. Otherwise, builders have to make a load of assumptions and prices will come in all over the place and generally higher than if you had a nailed down spec. Generally, the three levels of drawings with ascending levels of details are planning, building control and construction.

Welcome! You need to speak to an architect first. Nothing, literally nothing can happen without correct drawings. With planning drawings, you can then get a cost estimate from a QS, then approach a lender. And also submit planning. Once that is granted, you can draw down your funds and go shopping for a builder.

Have you devalued the properties or made them harder to sell? If no, then the lender won't care. Just get the paperwork right as advised.

Hi. There's a fair bit of work of you want it to be habitable space. You have to comply with various parts of building control regulations. Your main challenges will be insulation, ventilation, and access (fire safety). A few questions. Can you access the house already from the space? Do you plan on keeping the separate study at the back? And if so, how is this accessed and does it have external access? Have any of your neighbours done a similar conversion? To quickly answer some of your questions. Highly unlikely you'll get a set of used doors to match that opening. You'll likely be building up the floor level anyway, so you won't know what size door you'll need until you have that detail sorted. All doors and windows are custom made to the opening, it may not make economic sense to make an opening match a door, it's usually the other way round.

Need to see photos of the full roof and details of construction to comment effectively.

I have a 10year+ old 42" LCD TV I got off gumtree that gets as hot as a radiator. Genuinely warms a room. Perfect idea.

Risk assessment and method statement. What are you doing, and how are you doing it once you've assessed the risks? Basically.

Photos please

I can't comment on your competency There are scenarios you need to cover that might not be obvious to a non expect. E.g. how do you control for ground level changes (e.g. machine operating on a rubble pile) or visiting plant / vehicles? For context, how high are the lines? I'm assuming as HV they are well out of the way? And are you building directly under the lines?

It's part of the process. You need to budget for these things. I had a H&S expert do a site risk assessment and provide template documentation and recommendations. £250. Pennies in the big scheme of things, I spent more on spray foam. So far this year in our company, we've had one electrical fatality and at least one other near miss. The near miss would have been a fatality if it wasn't for the use of an insulated fibreglass shovel, as specified by the RAMS.

Don't wing this. Think you'd be best speaking to an expert on this, and getting the DNO to approve the RAMS. It could be as simple as goal posts and restricting machine type so it cannot reach within the min safety distance to the HV line.