Conor

That bit of pipe you have exposed is the 1-1.m "tail" that comes out of the box that the contractor fits, that is then connected to the customers pipe. The boundary box itself usually has a push-fit connection on either side for the supply pipes. You can cut that length of MDPE wherever suits you to get the right angle for connecting to your own pipe.

Yes, just remove the existing adaptor and use a 20-25mm MPDE coupler and attach your new 25mm pipe.

A bit off topic... I see a lot of "Makita" products at less than half the normal price. Are these genuine? What's the catch?!

If you do need to connect to the iron pipe, eveno on a temp basis, I highly recommend this: https://www.speedy-plastics.co.uk/shop/mdpe-watermains/mdpe-plasson/universal-coupler-10017/plasson-25mm-mdpe-pipe-to-universal-pipe-coupler-24mm-28mm/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOfmvTGn2QEJz5OXWoFE2Q5Y-M2IGEZF57V9tSl_cs7tCZkI6u68Eg0aAmSqEALw_wcB I used similar for connecting to our old lead pipe.. dead easy and no leaks.

If you say his name three times, he'll appear and explain to you why there's no such thing as thermal mass. He lives near my sister, I'd always wanted to see his house next time I was over visiting. Don't think that's going to happen now.

Update on this... both my architect and builder think this is a stupid idea.... so back to sheet of insulation, UFH and then liquid screed.

You shouldn't use kingspan between the joists as you'll have condensation issues behind the plasterboard. You should have 100mm mineral wool between joists and 200-300mm layed across the joists. You should also put all of you insulation on either the ceiling joists or under the roof rafters- not both. Are you planning on using the attic space for storage or anything more? Looks to be a decent size. If you just want storage space, get those stilts so you can lay loft boards above the insualtion. I see you've no roof felt under your slates so that would mean no to any sort of spray insulation.

Kore don't seem to have any engineers, at least that's what I found from the technical queries we had with them. Part of the reason why we ended up with a ground bearing slab, too much time wasted going down routes that ended up not working.

Yes. Spoke to them a couple years ago under recommendation from our architect. From the casual conversation the ballpark numbers mentioned were about double the DIY route. But time and quality are important and I might not be able to deliver either... so going back to them for a proper quote I think. C.

In my last house I had an externally mounted Monsoon extractor unit. Huge extraction and almost zero noise. I'd never have a conventional hood again.

Hahahaha!

I've reolink WiFi cameras all over the site. Work just fine and not too expensive. I don't see the point in anything that needs a network cable.

As a famous physicist once said, "we don't yet know, what we do not know"

Are you sure it's not just part of the packaging?

Only thing I'd say is... You need to connect and get on with your architect. It's a creative partnership. Pick the one that feels right. The one you'd invite to invite round to dinner or go for a pint with.

The builder was round today and highly recommended steel studs... Has me convinced, esp as we're nowhere near water tight.

Quick update on this. No doors on any of these walls - they are all in the block walls in the hallway. The wall for the cold room needs to be insulated - I got a pile of 100mm PIR from @dpmillerfor the job, so now settling for 100mm studs for the basement - plus the bathroom stud wall will have wall hung toilet and sink on one side, and the other side will be in the utility/plant room so likely heavy stuff will be mounted to it! Local builders merchant has 100x35mm C16 timber... is this too thin? fair bit cheaper than 47mm. Both walls will be ply lined on one side. Thanks edit: now thinking 35mm is too narrow....

Seems the me a plethora of timber and build up options for stud walls. These are for my basement - utility, bathroom and cold room, all 2400mm tall. I'm thinking 75mm rough sawn carcassing timber, possibly 12.5mm OSB*, them plasterboard etc. Any need to got to 100mm? Or is 83mm planed CLS that much easier to work with to justify the extra cost? Do these choices affect stud spacing? *Used OSB in previous kitchen and bathroom renovation and made it super easy to mount stuff to walls, tempted to use it again, esp for cold room which will have loads of shelving. And beer. It's basically a big beer fridge.

I use Saxton blades in my reciprocating saw, easily better than Bosch and a fraction of the price. Deffo try them in my other saws when the time comes.

@SuperJohnG that would be classed as a professional service and you can't claim the vat back.

I'd go digging and find it. Maps showed a combined sewer in our back garden right where we going to build our extension. A bit of walking around looking for manholes and a bit of digging proved that the sewer was 10m behind in the alleyway. Re diameter... Anywhere from 100mm to 1000mm.....

175mm PIR and 75mm S&C screed (or 200mm PIR & 50mm liquid, tbc). So actually @dpmiller suggestion of the thermal blocks then soleplate is perfect.

@Olf @Levo I've just asked m friend that installs MVHR system on what he thinks - he often sources units like this from Denmark and Germany. Will report back. I'm keen as well as it's coming in a fair bit cheaper than the Zehnder equivalent I'm looking at.

Really goes to show it's worth doing your homework!!!

Wouldn't it be better to fit two "L" beams in through the joists? That's what we did at our last house. Then you can have a flush ceiling - worst case you have to baton our the plasterboard 50mm. Joists were cut, beams inserted and bolted, batons fitted to joists and ceiling fitted.