Declan52

This might sound a bit obvious but have you tried hitting the pump a gentle tap a few times when it is running. You should feel vibrations when it's running.

I would draw a big middle finger on the condensation on the window and make even more noise.

I thought it was on the inside!!!

Bond a strip of plasterboard to the underside. Then fill the front edge to form a straight clean edge.

Don't forget you need to be able to get to it to change the filters.

When you say your ok at DIY what exactly do you mean. 2nd fix is all the nice bits that aren't hidden so they need to be right or you will be looking at them forever.

You need to look at it in terms of what aspect of mhrv is the most important to you. In my case it's the clean fresh air. I have had sinus issues for a long time so moving from a stuffy old 1960s house with its fair share of condensation and mould to my new build was a massive leap. I couldn't really care less if it recovered any heat to be honest. Once a year I spend about 30mins changing the filters and washing and drying the heat exchanger and the rest of the year it just works away doing it's job.

Have you actually went and looked at these doors and took them away to a tile shop and held them up against various different tiles.

Or if it is bothering you that much then buy one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Power-Squeegees-Kitchen-Car-Green/dp/B07B7KVY1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=squidgy&qid=1576678080&sr=8-1

There is nothing your builder can do to fix it. It happens to most good quality Windows at this time of year and in the spring when the outside conditions are roughly the same. Now you have 2 choices continue to fret and waste time over something that you can do nothing about or move on and try to get solutions to what ever else is stressing you out.

Did you even do a search on Google before posting that spiel. A simple search on Google of "condensation on outside of double glazed windows"will bring you up a months worth of reading. So it's a case of the air outside containing a lot of water turning from a gas to a liquid on a cold pane of glass. If you have some way of reducing the humidity of the outside air or increasing the temperature of the outside pane of glass then there ain't nothing you can do. It's just one of them things that happens during this time of year and during the spring. Once the sun comes up and heats the window up it disappears.

That's how I did it when I used to work for a company doing this. The long bars across 2 trestles. Using chalk measure out the required distance between each ring. Slide the rings on and then just go along and tap tap tap away. Slide the 2 bottom bars in through the rings and put a spot on each end to hold in place then flip over and tap away till there all welded up. You could do a 6m length cage in 10 mins once you got the hang of it.

It's nothing to worry about so just park it. If you Google the issue it will come back with a proper scientific explanation. It's just due to a specific set of circumstances due to the time of the year basically. Would you rather it was on the inside or outside???

Open the window and look along the frame to see if you can spot some screws.

If it's forming on the outside that means they are working as they should. To put it simply the outside pane will be the coldest as no heat is escaping from inside so once it gets below the dew point you will get condensation.

So if I see Paul Clark telling me about another delicate ATM removal involving a telehandler in the Hollywood area I will know whose site it got borrowed from.

I used to weld for these guys. Done plenty of this type of work when I was there. https://www.rom.co.uk/contact-us/

Just hammered in tight.

Did you get a brand new window custom made for your opening or did you get one that the builder sourced that was close enough and required a bit of adjusting??

Be nice and polite no matter how much it is making your temper boil. Explain that for the money you have paid you aren't happy. Then show him each and every tile that you aren't happy with. Give him a chance to put it right. If he does then great if not then if you go down the small claims route then you can show that you tried your best to come to a solution and where nothing but accommodating but sadly the tiler wasn't.

I done mine. 500mm deep strip foundations all poured in a single day. As above measure and measure and check and check and get some else to measure and check before you even think about moving on to the next stake in the ground.

I have it on a few sections of my house. You can get everything from Z style blocks to real stone cut down to 40mm slips and obviously these differ widely in cost.

I just used standard lightweight blocks on all my inside skin of my cavity . When you cut them you could see everything from glass to ash instead of normal aggregate to keep the weight down. As long as you soak them prior to wet plaster being applied then they won't suck all the moisture out of the wet plaster and cause the wall to crack.

You phone up and ask where is your delivery. They say it's been delivered already and you go well it wasn't too my front door so you need it send it out again and this time request that a signature is required when it's handed over. You then put the first delivery to use or eBay which ever suits the most.

I would get a price for going along the route which takes you through the fields of the farmer that said no. Say for talks sake worst case scenario £5k. Go back to the farmer and offer him a starting bid of £5k and you have a bit of leeway to increase to a max of maybe £10k to get access to his land. Your still going to be under the initial cost of a borehole with out factoring in any running and maintenance costs over the years. As having read @Jeremy Harris blog you will have seen the steps he had to go to inorder to get his system working. Don't forget the borehole will be costed out per meter of depth they drill. So if they have to go deeper and deeper as the water flow isn't strong enough at 50/60/70m then the bill goes up and up and up.