Declan52

Go round the complete job with a piece of chalk and put a big X on any tile you have an issue with. Take your time and get down on your hands and knees and go over each tile. This is going to be your one and only chance to get it redone. All the lipping all the dips and bumps. Mark them all. As @nodhas already mentioned the bond is way out as well. They should be half bond at least. When you have all the tiles you want sorted marked up count the bad ones and then get the tiler round and explain your not happy with his work and show him all the X's. Then it's up to him and you to come to an agreement over what happens next. If there is only a few tiles maybe less than 10 then replace them but if your up to 30-40 tiles then it's lift the lot and start again.

Very nice looking.

So it's carrying a lot of weight so don't go swinging the sledge hammer just yet.

Welcome Tracey. House looks good. Post the floor plans if you want and the many eyes here can have a look and see if there are any potential issues they can see or any improvements that can be made. It's a lot cheaper to change things now with a pencil than later on with a hammer and saw.

Good result then.

The 7m of twinwall flue and all the bends and cap cost more than my stove.

I think your going to have to chip of the plaster in the circle section So you can see exactly what is there. Can you lift the what ever is on the floor in the room above to see what direction the joists go. This will let you know if the wall is load bearing. The wall might even continue upwards.

If you are very particular about the details then you can build in the cold. Everything needs covered and I mean everything. Ice can form overnight in the sand and the water. If your blocks/bricks have got wet during the day from rain then they will freeze overnight and once the motar hits the block the water in the mix will freeze up and go to fluff. Any wall built during the day will need covered as well to stop frost sitting on it overnight. As for additives you can use a rapid hardener. Depending on how many mixes the brickies go through in a day it can work out pretty expensive. Depending on what brand you buy you can end up using 1L of additive per bag of cement which won't be long adding up. So it's basically a question of how quickly you want to to get it built. Pay the money for the additives and cover everything up or call a halt to building when it's too cold. Even with additives if it's below zero all day then your better not building.

Any chance of a picture.

Don't be as rough as @Russell griffiths and wack it with a hammer. A drill and a masonry bit will tell you what's there. If it's hard going it's concrete. If it bursts through in seconds its plasterboard.

I did all that except turn the electric of as I need it to power the drill.

Fitting her dad's new kitchen I was putting up a high level wall unit. There was a socket beneath it so took the cover of and plumbed up from the cable. Took the drill out and put one bracket up moved over to the next one and about 20mm into the next hole a mighty blue flash and I fell of the stool. Drill bit melted, hammer drill never worked again and I had a blue dot in my eye for days. Who ever tracked the wall was 75mm out of plumb. There was a lot of bad language said that day.

I used this stuff to stick the airtightness tape to my block work and the pir on the ceiling. https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-fortax-6400-airtight-sealant/ A good bead along the edge then push the tape onto it. It's flexible so will move as the different materials move. A word of warning though don't get it on your hair as it doesn't come off without a razor or scissors.

Realistically you won't earn much money as your skill level won't be high enough even after 8 weeks. Your nice soft skin won't even have got used cement and bricks eating away at it. Your best bet would be to try and do a bit of site labouring or if you can labour to some brickies. You won't need any qualifications and the money is in your hand every Friday.

Do you mean the temperature settings for each room on the stat or the water temperature going into the ufh system??

They are vents. You have to have them in so they ventilate the cavity.

Only if your caught.

None taken.

How many other properties does your feed supply?? Can you trace it back along the road and find a stop valve where you could turn the water of for a few minutes and connect your Toby then turn all back on again.

Personal protection equipment. Proper goggles,ear defenders, gloves, steel toe caps etc. For using a chainsaw then you also include the correct type of clothing that if the worst happens the chain snags in the fabric rather than your flesh and bone.

You can always say you have had a rethink about the window and just want it left as is.

Just leave it as it is. Why try to make it smaller by altering it when it will just be a bodge. If you use timber no matter what you do it will move different from the blocks so will crack. It's only 200mm wider. If you go for a thicker frame uPVC 3g unit most of that extra will be ate up by the frame width so you will have the actual glass near enough what you want.

Your still clinging on for some reason trying to find a major structural fault with something which isn't an issue. For the sake of your own mental health and ours just move on.

No once the window is in and it's plastered up you won't see any of it. In the famous words of the ice Princess Elsa just let it go. Your worrying over nothing. You have been told numerous times it's nothing to be concerned about so just file it away and move on to the next dilemma. The piece of slate is just there to help them bed the lintel up so it sits level. No big deal. Happens every day on every site.

Seriously you need to take a breath and relax. You have got yourself all worked up over nothing and are only adding more stress which you can't handle. Strike the window bow of your list of things to confront the builder with and move on.