Declan52

Or buy cordless versions of the tools you need.

They do so really lovely tables.

Will work fine. It will all depend on how long it takes for you to figure out the delay in the heat coming through due to having 100mm of insulation. Mine takes roughly 90 mins before you would feel in on your feet and I have 150mm. But as it takes long to heat up it will also stay warm for longer. Don't forget that the house will take a fair while to dry out so it won't be till the winter that you get a better idea of your timings.

Looks like something you order from Wish and then when it arrives you wish you hadn't spent £30 on it.

Have you got a sliding bevel??? https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-sliding-bevel-300mm-11/8662v On your last full board put the bevel on top of it and set it to suit the angle in your roof. Then you measure from the wall to where the board will touch the roof, set your bevel and then Mark on the new board a line up giving you the pitch of your roof. Then it's up to how straight you can cut. It's easier to cut the plumb cut straight so if the board you need is 1800mm then measure at 1850mm. Mark with your bevel and cut. If your happy with how your cut looks , nice and straight, then cut the plumb bit that goes against the wall and that's it done. If your not happy then the extra 50mm will give you a chance to sort that out. After 1 or 2 cuts you will get the hang of it and not need so much of a safety net and hopefully be able to do just the 2 cuts. Hopefully!!

Have you no spare slips and you could stick them to timber with silicone/caulk and try both methods.

It does work. Have done plenty of recessed beds. Just used one of these. https://www.screwfix.com/p/joint-raker/16590 You just set the nail depth to suit how much you want raked out.

Yeah the brush will take off any rough bits and the sponge leaves it nice and smooth. Similar to finishing off ordinary tiles.

It will say on the back of the grout bag how long you have to work with it. How warm the room is will also effect it. Should be dry to touch but not set. Wouldn't go bucket handle as that is just jointed up like standard bricks would be finished. Sponge would look like this. I'm going for an old brick wall look that has nice modern units with it.

A light brush when it's near set then a sponge to rub it smooth and fill in any cracks. Will look more old and rugged like the bricks.

For more information on how the vibrating stone type piles work then @AnonymousBosch is your point of contact. There is plenty of reading in his blog.

Your last thread got shut down because of this type of reply so unless you want this one too follow suit keep to the subject in hand.

If you Google hand held window sampler you get a pic of me having a fun day at a power station in Derry.

It's a big Jack hammer that drives the hollow tube into the ground using a hydraulic pump. You then take off the hammer and attach a lift and clamp it onto the rods and pull it up 800mm at a time. Pretty standard operation.

If your SE will accept the results from dynamic probing then you could do away with the 20m hole and this means the site investigation company could use a much smaller rig which in turn reduces your costs. The smaller rig will easily get to 6-8m giving you samples of what type of clay your sitting on down to this depth. Once that's done they use 1m length rods and basically drive the rod down to whatever depth you need. Unless it's soft clay they won't get to 20m anyway. They count the number of blows it takes for each rod and from this can then work out the what size and depth of piles you would need. But if they require samples of the type of clay at 10/12/15m etc then there ain't any other options. At most a 20t digger isn't going to get you more than 7m and that's going to be a massive hole.

You can use a 8ft length of lath to scrap the snotts of the back of the bricks every evening. Lower it down straight then sweep it up cleaning the back of the bricks as you go. It's just a trade of between some of the mortar dropping down to the bottom of the cavity or some snotts. We would have left a brick of each corner and had a length of lath at the bottom so any droppings settled on it. At the end of each floor pull them out clean it off then put back in.

A pic from the road looking at the fence and if possible a Google maps view would help us get a better idea of your issue.

In all my years I have never seen a single building control officer come out and check where the blocks where laid on the concrete. Checked the ground before the concrete pour then another check when your backfilling with stone and putting any services in.

Won't make any difference. Built walls right out to the edge before. That's why you build on a wide Foundation as it so easy to dig slightly off line.

Do it in 1m sections so your not going up hill for long. Or If you push down on the handle so it's sort of wheeling up then it goes up hill a bit better. A trench rammer is a different kind of beast. Pull the cord and hold on till your finished our your arms are ready to vibrate of you. Make sure your phone isn't in your pocket if your swinging of one of these.

Could you use something like this to drive on. It's as temp as they come. https://www.grassmats.co.uk/product/grass-protection-mesh/

Why build such a big house though. Lovely views from the back but did they really need 3 storey.

After watching that many weird WhatsApp clips I was half expecting that zombie woman to burst through the door or the big guy with the large trouser snake standing there.

Just make life easy for yourself and widen the cavity.

Half of Belfast is sitting on sand. Not a drop of concrete to be seen.