Declan52

Is there any of these type of hobs that would fit a standard 60cm hob cut out. My worktop is quartz so not easy to cut in situ.

Quote 2 is 6mm thinner that's why it's cheaper. Have you priced up using P5 chipboard. Will be water proof plus much quicker to lay.

My bro in law bought a brand new Peugeot 308 with the full sun roof that leaked from day 1. They had it back numerous times trying to find the leak with the full glass roof removed and resealed 3 times. Eventually managed to get it sorted.

Can you lift a corner in the other room and get the brand of that underlay.

Welcome. Your going to be paying a lot for a site in that location.

9 inch ones tend to give me blisters but I found these really help. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07X53W18D/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What power is yours rated to @recoveringbuilder??? Mine is a 22kw rated with around 15kw dedicated to just heating the water. The rest is blown out into the room which can be adjusted to suit your needs. They are no where near perfect but no heating system is. If I had to start again though I don't think I would go for this type of system again. At the time I made my choice the main reason was the vast lack of people in NI with any heat pump experience. But this has changed over the last 5 years for the better so would be much more confident in getting an ashp installed and commissioned correctly.

They still have augers to get the pellets from the hopper to the burn box. Mine doesn't make any sound when it's feeding them in. They will jam up if the pellets get wet as they will expand and block the feed pipe to the burn box. They do still need to be cleaned out each week, empty the ash tray etc. Mine could run from full for approx 8 hrs till it's empty but that is going flat out all 8 hrs. I would get 3 days heating of my Central heating and dhw demands for a full hopper. You need the programme so you can set it to come on in the morning. Mine will fire up at 6am and run till 9. First 2 hrs is to service the ufh needs. Next 30 mins to give the rads up stairs a blast and the last 30 mins to recharge the tank for the throughout the day.

They will give you a plan of what they want it to look like, length width height etc and what brick bond they favour. Then what kind of finsh is at the top, concrete coping, slate or soldier course. Then it's up to you to make it happen. If there is something that you think won't look good then you can help them by explaining what ever it is that might be wrong and let them make the final call.

It will have to be deep enough so the founds are on solid ground or they will sink and the wall will crack. If that's the same depth as the house then that's how deep it needs to go.

When they have the window out I would take the cill out and reform dpc at the back of it, chances are there isn't any. You will just need to cut out whatever stone pieces are above the edges and it should slide out with the mortar removed at the sides. Can also redo the reveals if they are bad. Won't really know till the window is out.

How big is the opening??? What's the outside skin , brick block or timber?? How much out of level is it??? A pic would help

You could use a mat type system. https://underfloorheating-direct.com/polypipe-1200mm-x-1000mm-floor-panel-31512-p.asp

Your allowed to use the immersion to top it up. How could they stop you.

I heat mine to 64 for my thermal store and it keeps long enough for my needs. If I would change to an ashp I understand that I would either have to adjust my use to suit that lower temperature. The only time you would notice it would be using the shower or bath but for ufh it would still be fine. For the cost of replacing the tank you could programme the immersion to come on to boost the temp higher to overcome this issue. Plus with excess pv I would only be paying for this boost 5 months of the year.

Why would you need to change from a thermal store to a uvc. If it works now using an electric boiler why would it not work with an ashp. Your only changing the method you use to heat the water.

Cordless circular saw would do one of these joints in a min.

Welcome Paul. There are a few members interested in ICF so an sure your experience and knowledge will be most welcome.

Have you enough fall if you connect that pipe into your storm drain system. If you put a manhole at the back so that pipe connects into it then have all your normal connections at the back also go into it then bring it round the side to the front and out. When you get to the front will the depth be high enough to give you enough fall to connect into where ever you had planned to connect into.

With nights getting colder you run the risk of frost so could have patches that don't fully harden. You shouldn't be able to crumble the mortar though so that would be a worry. See what the other builder says and take it from there.

Unless you have access to a small mixer your best bet would be to get concrete delivered. If you get a fairly dry mix you can use it to form your base plus set the edgings. You going to need to have your tile, adhesive bedding, concrete and then compacted hardcore. As for depths your looking at 150mm compacted hardcore, 100mm of concrete, 30mm adhesive. The slabs are 90kg so they are very very heavy so you can't skimp on the sub base or they will sink. For hardcore your going to need 5t and concrete 1.7m3. That should be enough to form the base plus have enough to set to edgings and haunch the back. But this all depends on the actual size you finish with plus how level you can get the hardcore and then the concrete. With each step of this process you need to get more and more accurate. After you dig it out you could be 60mm out. After the hardcore maybe 30mm out. After the concrete 10mm out. You don't want to be starting to bed these tiles and find your 50mm out as due to the weight of these tiles it will be very difficult to take that out in the bedding of the adhesive.

Yeah if you have a leaky pipe just screw one of these in, twist and call the fire brigade.

If you have a service void you can use plasterboard screws that can hold a fair amount of weight. These are good. https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-25-x-205mm-25-pack/630hp

But if there is no electric going to the pump then it can't run and you can get some sleep. Will buy you some time to let the installers come out and try to fix the issues. Just let it sit for an HR after you heating turns of before you switch it off to allow it to cool down.

The pump will continue to run to allow the hot water in the system to be pumped round so it cools down. Turn it on during the day for 6/8 hrs to get the rooms up to temp then turn it off at the wall so the heat pump can't fire up at night. Then when you wake up turn it back on and let it run till your rooms are warm. The main problem you have is you got a system installed that won't work unless you run it 24/7.