Declan52

But what was put in the roof was both not enough plus was put in wrong with gaps everywhere. Heat rises and your ceiling insulation was plain crap. If it's all escaping out the roof it won't matter how long you run your heating or how big the rad is, the room won't get warm enough. All the insulation is doing is being Tom thumb holding back the water only your ceiling is Tom new born baby wee finger. It's just not capable of doing it. All the insulation is doing is slowing the rate at which it will leave your house. There is always going to be some leakage your just getting it down as low as you can. You need to roll more out end of. 300mm min depth. You can lie across the insulation it won't compress enough to burst through the ceiling. Buy some cheap ass clay pots and cut a notch out of the lip with a grinder or hacksaw if you don't have one for the cable going to your downlights. Silicone around the edge of the pot and fill in the notch so it's sealed to the plasterboard. This will stop cold air leakingn in plus heat escaping. You just need to get this done as soon as before the really cold months come or before we all lose the will to live and go out licking shop door handles in the hope of getting covid. It's not a big job just a messy one. Buy enough rolls to finsh the 100 mm between the joists and then another 200min above that. Go online and look at the coverage in each pack and use the room measurements to figure out what you need to finish it off. Stop stressing about what the builder did and didn't do it's not getting you anywhere. Realistically he's been paid so if you ask him to come back and fix it he's going to tell you where to go. So go to your builders yard/homebase/b&q and buy what you need to buy and get the job done. Finger out and get it sorted for this weekend.

Company beside me have started doing thermal bead screed. It's supposed to do away with pir insulation.

It's new to you.

The extra depth won't matter. What depth of insulation have you bought??

Think your just going to have to get up there and remove what's there in sections. If it's not snug between the joists then it's a chocolate fire guard . It will roll all back into tidy pieces which you can then pick a starting point and do it right. There's no other way around it. Depending on how much wiggle room you have to get a plank/ timber up there you could use something 800mm long and 400mm wide. Will let you lie down across the joists without going through the ceiling. If you have 2 bits of timber even better.

They should. They need stacked in rows, 3 blocks wide on their edge then the next row 3 on their edge the opposite direction and so on 5/6 block high. This will give plenty of room around all the sides of the block to get air in-between to dry them out. Then covered at the top with polythene or a mortar board.

They sink and the mortar draws the water out of the blocks and you get salt patches on the wall. And of course they are much heavier and rip the skin of your fingers much quicker. No suction on the blocks as well.

They will never dry out in stacks like that. All your going to be able to do is cover them up so they don't get any wetter.

If you pack the top of the wood that is attached to the house out 10mm this will mean the bottom section will be running up hill towards the house. This will mean the rain can't run back and will drip of.

How big are the rooms upstairs and how big are the rads. It shouldn't take hours to heat any room and yours isn't even what you would class as warm.

Why have they set the boiler to come on when it's only dropped 10 degrees. I found my sweet spot for storing hot water and using the boiler it's most efficient was 64 degrees. How much insulation is around the tank?? If nothing is used how long does it take to drop 10 degrees before the boiler would fire up?? Are all your pipes entering/leaving the tank insulated?? So on an average coldish day what way do you run it. Something like this. Boiler gets turned on in the morning and ufh calls for heat plus the rad gets a blast. This takes X hrs before the ufh stops needing heat. Then it burns for X hrs to reheat the tank.

How hot are you storing the water in the tank??

What are your set programs l? Does it come on and off when you want it to?? What way are you using the ufh and rads call for heat??? If nothing is calling for heat how long does it take to get to your set point in the thermal store?? 500l is a massive tank of water to heat.

So exactly how deep is the insulation in total. I want it in mm or cm but an actual measurement using a tape or ruler. I have Xcm between the joists. I have Xcm over the joists.

Think that's why @joe90 turned down a drink at his house.

We are always watching.

His business where in both Co Cavan and Co Fermanagh neither of which I have ever heard being held to the same level as say South Armagh. He was born in Derrylin in Co. Fermanagh that's why he set up there. He started off digging gravel out of his family farm and selling it on. With lots of access to cheap gravel he could then move into cement products and made his fortune.

What's wrong with Fermanagh and Co Cavan.

Right guys this thread is slowly slipping again into more and more personal areas. Keep it on track with facts and figures and debate away till your hearts content. But if it keeps getting personal then this thread will be closed.

The agri good sector in Ireland as a whole supplies the UK with most of its meat, veg, milk etc. I don't have the numbers but it's big business and will cause a lot of head ache for these businessess if the sea border puts any obstacles in the way of trading with the UK . One of my friends has a fairly large dairy farm and all his milk gets sent to the Republic of Ireland to get processed. Lots of meat products are processed the same. If they start loosing money then a lot of political parties here will be in serious trouble the next election.

If Brexit has an impact on the farming community here then the DUP are in serious trouble. They hold the ear of most of this party and once their livelihoods start to be negatively impacted then their dead in the water. This will then push the border poll issue front and center. As you have said I don't think it would win today but in the future if Brexit turns out to be a disaster for the NI population then the chances of a United Ireland will massively increase.

Don't cut the hole fully till the hatch is beside you and you have measured it and measured it and measured it. Draw with a pencil on the plasterboard the correct size and then cut along the line.

If they took the plastic edges of and dressed it in lead it might not be as bad looking.

Just to follow up with this I opted for the ubiquity lite access point. Used the WiFi analyser app mentioned above and took readings in each room using my current talk talk router. These ranged from 59mb in the kitchen to 3mb in the farthest bedroom. Set up the new access point in the same location and ran all the same tests. Was an improvement in each room. Moved the access point to the first floor landing approximately in the middle of the house to find the sweet spot. Now the slowest I get in the farthest room is 45mb with some rooms touching 70mb. It's fair to say I'm well impressed with the range and speeds im getting with this access point. Using the ubiquity app on my phone setup took 5 mins. Was able to change the SSID and password to the same as was previously used on the talk talk router so nothing need changed on any device.

To make one all you will need is 1 length of 3*1 2.4m long to form the frame, 2.4 m of 2*1 for the hatch to sit on , a square of 18mm ply/hdf cut to suit how big your hole is and some draft seal. Then some thing like cheap skirting to have a strip around the edge on the plasterboard so it looks nice from below. It's not a hard job to make one. Not expensive to make. Have you any off cuts of insulation to glue to the back of the hatch??