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Everything posted by Declan52
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Nope Def not. No Virgin option in my village yet.
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Will check it when I get home from work.
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They are reduced today as well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tenda-Coverage-Compatible-100Mbps-Configured/dp/B07H3CXJBH?ref_=ast_sto_dp
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If I run speed tests on the wired network using a laptop or firestick I usually get around 50mb. It's just with the 5 of us there are plenty of things using the WiFi and some days it's fine but some days it's barely 5mb.
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It's the lites in looking at. Have you tested the signal strength at different ranges. Trying to figure out would 2 be enough or as my house is L shape I might need 3.
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So after months of nagging by the kids about poor WiFi speeds in going to have to try and sort it out. Am I better install something like a ubiquity access point or a mesh system like the Google nest or Amazon eero. House is 2500 sqft chalet bungalow with block walls on both floors. All rooms have cat5/cat6 cables in them. Can't remember what one I used.
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Looking for long straight edge to align hip rafters.
Declan52 replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Tools & Equipment
A length of box section is what screed guys use. How long will depend on your budget. -
Monobloc: neat idea given the Ozzy Osbourne treatment
Declan52 replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Plumbing
Yours,mine,tomato tomatoe . Just twist till it stops. -
Monobloc: neat idea given the Ozzy Osbourne treatment
Declan52 replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Plumbing
They only go hand tight so just twist them to they stop. -
You need to listen to what is being said. Get some thermometers on the go and record the daily temperature outside and inside at morning, noon, evening and night. This will give you a base line to go to the installers and say that your heating system isn't fit for purpose. By having actual readings you can prove that it's not capable of keeping your house at a reasonable temperature over the winter. While you wait can you not use the stove in your house to heat some rooms and spend your time here while only doing work in the new section. Invest in some thermals, trousers and a long sleeved top really help to keep you warm.
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Yep. Didn't notice what was happening when I was taping the roof windows and ended up with a fair amount on the back of my head. After a few washes took none of it off it escalated to the scissors.
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Your best bet would be to look around your area for some one looking a labourer as a start. It would get you in through the door and be earning decent money and open your eyes to how hard physically it's is to do it each and every day. You could even end up driving a digger, dumper or telehandler which all pay a decent wage. The problem with starting it at your age your not going to be able to build enough bricks and blocks to cover your wage for 2-3 years and like most of us the bills will keep rolling in and need paid. It's fine when your only earning £100 a week when you're 16 and have no out goings. Different story return you have kids to pay for.
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Stud walls - 75mm, 100mm, rough sawn, 83mmCLS?!
Declan52 replied to Conor's topic in General Joinery
Don't think it would make any difference going with 35mm as you are using ply and plasterboard on each side as well which will strengthen it up . -
Don't use the concrete versions as they will fade in the sun. Buy the real stone cladding.
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This is what I used. You put the split tape on your window/door frame then peel the back of the tape and run a good bead along the block and push the tape into the glue. Do not and I can't stress this enough get it in your hair. It's a scissors job to get it out. https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-fortax-6400-airtight-sealant/
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Dry Hip and Dry Ridge problem on new build
Declan52 replied to Tomfromsurrey's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
It's your money at the end of the day so it's your risk. Just by looking at the pics you have posted it doesn't paint a very good picture of the quality of the work that has been done already so could well be a very good indicator of what you will find inside. So it all boils down to how much you and your family really want to live in this house in this location and how quick the builder will be to remedy any faults that arise in the coming months. -
It's a 30 min job to clean them out and put new filters in place once you have got it clean for the first time. Turn the power of to the unit. Around the edge of the front frame you will see small screws. You will need to remove these. Be careful as the plastic cap that holds the spring clip in place is flimsy. Once removed you will see a large hexagon unit, heat exchanger, with a handle on it that you remove. Pull it out and clean inside the void with a bleach wipe. You will see where dust has built up around the pipe inlets and outlets. Rinse the heat exchanger in the bath with warm water till it runs clean. You then let it drip dry for an HR and then use a hairdryer to fully dry it out. It all goes back into place fairly easy with just care taken around the screws again. It will make sense when you see the crap clips. You will also need new filters. Google the make of your unit as different ones need different filters. If your landlord wants to pay towards it then happy days. They aren't dear though, £20 ish. For the vents in the ceiling pop the plastic cover of the roof, they are only pushed in and then use a Hoover to get it cleaned out and rinse the cover and use a bleach wipe on it and into the pipe in the ceiling void. Google the make of yours and you will be able to download a manual which might give some pics to explain it better.
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Trusses going on to fresh mortar
Declan52 replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
Get them all delivered on Tues and store the garage truss somewhere safe, sitting up against scaffolding tied in a few places. Without anything to lean them on your not going to be able to load the garage roof out which will give you a week or so to organise the crane to return and for everything to go rock hard. Don't let the brickie build them in one go either if it's not a rush. Build the blocks one day,prop them, go home and return and set the steel and finish it the next day. -
Trusses going on to fresh mortar
Declan52 replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
The peaks are the gable walls. They are triangle shape so look like a peak.So there is nothing to lean the truss against then at either side?? If so then you can't set them all up on Tues to spread at a later day. -
Trusses going on to fresh mortar
Declan52 replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
I take it the rest of the corners and peaks are built and rock solid. If so rapid hardener in the mix, pray for a warm calm day and hope it sits in place. Your really rolling the dice though. Load the house up first and do the garage last but don't spread them. Let them sit there propped up till the house is done by the joiners. Should be at least a few days so maybe Fri or the Monday before they get to the garage by which time it should be solid. -
Trusses going on to fresh mortar
Declan52 replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
It's expensive. Even with rapid hardener your still relying on decent weather. A cold Day and frosty night is not what you want. With a 150mm wide wall you have a small chance of getting the wall built in one go but it will be very wobbly until the beam holds it in place. If it's at all windy then no chance the pillars stay in place. What's the weather forecast. Are the wind posts in place??? Is the truss company relying on your crane to unload the truss or can they unload them by hiab on the delivery lorry?? If they can unload them then still get them delivered on Tues and wait a few extra days. -
Trusses going on to fresh mortar
Declan52 replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
Put some rapid hardener into the mix which will help it cure much quicker if you really want it to. You could just load the truss up on Tues and rest them against the peaks then spread them on wed. This will give it an extra day to fully cure. -
Dry Hip and Dry Ridge problem on new build
Declan52 replied to Tomfromsurrey's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
I have never seen tile verge caps used like that before. Not sure if it's a clap for solving the issue or a slap for solving it, putting them on and standing back going yeah that's great looking. Obviously got the pitch wrong for one and ended up using end caps and lead to hide it. As @Russell griffithssays walking away might be best. If they can be bothered peeling the backing of the roll out section or driving the screws in fully or using lead and end caps to hide the balls up between the porch and garage roof then what else is waiting to be discovered. -
Huge difference in costing from Flemings vs Scandia Hus
Declan52 replied to Helen Vowls's topic in Timber Frame
Put the kettle on,sharpen the pencil and dig deep and if needed send them an email asking further questions. -
Huge difference in costing from Flemings vs Scandia Hus
Declan52 replied to Helen Vowls's topic in Timber Frame
Have you made sure that both are quoting for the same things. Is scaffolding and crane hire included in each for example?? Is the frame for both the same depth?? Who are they using for Windows, one could be cheap crap and the other Rolls Royce?? Insulation and membrane both included??? There could be lots and lots of differences in the quotes.
