Declan52

Bet there all out of date they have been sitting there that long!!!!

Parge coat will be a few mms depth of watery cement sand mix slapped on with a paint brush. No real skill required and it's messy. Scratch coat maybe 10-15mm deep depending on how plumb the wall is and involves a lot of skill to get it right.

My shower valve wouldn't have fitted on a single skin block wall without it poking into the wardrobe behind that wall so just check before you set all in stone.

It takes longer to squidgy the glass screen. Have to do this each time or it gets covered in water marks which is really bad looking. Now I just lift the bottles up and one swipe and it's sorted. All in maybe a 20 sec job so not much.

Have you measured up the shower unit you want to make sure there is room for all the pipes. Mine just about fitted.

Most of the water runs of mine but depending on how many empty/near empty bottles are there it can still collect a fair amount of water. The rods might be a good solution.

I have two in my main shower but mine are block. You have to clean the water out after a shower as it pools under the shampoo bottles.

Think @recoveringacademic done the same with his bucket.

A full dumper will plough the ground up very quick so plan your routes carefully. Don't get to close to the edge as the bank will go and then your in the shit. Put a plank back approx 1m from the edge, might be more or less depending on your dumpers skip, so you know when you hit it that's your limit. Most mixer lorries will have a few extra chute lengths on the side so get him backed up into at least 3 places along that front and let him empty what he can. How high is the skip of your dumper of the ground as in are you sure the lorry can tip into it ok.

I used gerband membrane and various tapes and was impressed. They where a 1/3 of the price of the pro clima tapes when I bought a few years ago.

If you have a seek thermal camera it's very easy to see where the pipes are.

If they are cold then they aren't working hard enough. Genny's are one of the most stolen tools on a site so take the wheels of it or chain it to something and never leave it on site overnight. If you are buying new buy one that has a good warranty so if it breaks down, which happens often, you can get it replaced. Try tool hire shops to see if they have any going cheap as these will be well looked after.

How many goes did it take you to change buckets. Quick hitch is the best invention for fat digger drivers.

Get them to split it into 2 pallets and your digger with lift them no bother. Use 2 bars through the pallet base and a sling from one end to the other via a shackle. Hanging a sling on the teeth of a bucket isn't a very safe option. Keep the weight as low to the ground as you can. If you are confident you can rest the pallet on the blade so it won't swing about as much when moving.

Could you do it as a sunroom but include sliding/inwards opening doors with a Juliet balcony so on the days the sun shines you can open the doors and enjoy it and on the days whens it's hurricane wind and horizontal rain you can still enjoy the view.

Think it's time to get a few accrows out and get that sorted before it's too late.

Think the cement blob is something like cement board/asbestolux that has been hit many times with a hammer.

Don't know if it makes me proud or sad!!!

It was on about 6:20 on the BBC breakfast show. Didn't catch the name as i not exactly awake yet.

I would be asking why are the blocks not plumb and why are the ties stopping the insulation??? Are the blocks poorly made and need returned or are they from different moulds with one slightly wider?? Why are the ties in the way, are the beds to tight so the ties are getting bent to get the boards in???

Bit in BBC news this morning about a company in Alfreton Derbyshire doing prefabed houses in a factory setting. Takes 8 weeks from start to craning the completed house onto site. Didn't look that bad either.

Nobody uses my front door at all. We have a normal door at the back plus a set of French doors approx 3m away. The French doors lead into the sun room and most visitors use these to enter the house. The warning about the doors swinging open in the wind is to be considered as it's happened a few times to us. Use whatever door you want people to use by keeping the other door locked so after a few months who ever visits you will be used to entering via the French doors.

The bigger they are the easier they are to drive so you will be fine. Just remember when slewing round that the boom is way longer than you are used to!!!

Mass developers will continue to use bricks and blocks because that's what people want. So it would take either a massive shift in taste or the building regs massively improved to sway towards alternate methods. The first timber frame houses we built about 12 years ago were an obsolute disgrace. In the 24 bases we built the timber frame company didn't get the measurements correct once. Some were resting on the sub floor and some were already touching the outside skin at the base. Doors and window widths and head heights were wrong,by the time we reached the roof the frame was that much out of plumb that there was no cavity. My brother in law rented a brand new timber frame build 2 years ago that I am convinced had no insulation in between the studs. I think the best we can hope for is wider cavity builds with pumped insulation and more effort to improve airtightness to get it at least half of what is the minimum rate now. That would be a start.

Bacon, nice thick sliced bread and brown sauce is all you need.