Big Jimbo

The weight of the screed will help, as would a full size snooker table. They will have been designed to have a maximum deflection.

To be fair to the chippie. He is booked to do a job. Turns up, and this is the position he is in. He has tried to get over it, but just badly. It would have been better if he had said, mate that timber in the web ain't deep enough. We are going to have to sort that before we start hanging joists. For future reference, i always get posi joists over length for trimming. Even if You are using the metal web one's they will put on a trimmable end if you ask them.

How much better does that look.

The wood within the web of the steel is simply not deep enough. It should be at least as deep as the web, and in an ideal world, extend a few mm beyond. The joist at 90 degrees would then be fully supported in the joist hanger. Don't accept that crap work under any circumstances. If the wood in the web is not deep enough, and needs a packer to bring it out clear of the steel, ply would be fine, but I would expect it to be glued and screwed onto the timber behind, and specified by a structural engineer. No problem using packers, but they have to be done correctly.

Then that will be fine, and much better than cutting into joists.

As the two front rooms are offset, I wonder if the water could be getting in at the top. Was a cavity tray fitted ? Either that or could it be something to do with the wet areas on the other side of the wall ?

Not seen that type myself. If it is hard water scale it will take some shifting. I would be taking the bowl out to make life easier. Its why I have never used the built in the wall ones. I have never fancied trying to change whatever through the hole in the front. Best of luck.

Is the pipe from the sink going under joists or through them ?

What ever you do, don't drill the bloody floor. Unless the plastic feet are complete cheap shite, they will be fine. 100 plus kitchens fitted with granite on plastic feet. Never had a problem bud

Love it, looks fabulous.

Just be careful in relation to what you put on the wall. I usually use sticks of timber to stand units off the wall. The problem you have to avoid is chunky deep timbers in the wall may well prevent your washing machine going back far enough into your unit. Ie; they hit the timber that you have put on the wall.

I saw some of it. It was good. If I remember she was from the States. did a great job where others would have just given up.

You had a lucky escape. Trying to unblock a saniflow that takes turds ain't no fun my friend.

If they are not 30mm into the cavity, they are a building control fail. However, BC will probably not even notice. If you have ever seen black mould and damp around a window reveal, it will generally be because the windows are not fitted within the cavity. This is also a cold bridge, and ultimately it will cost you more to heat your house forever. You might be able to get over it by glueing 20mm pir to the head, sides, and bottom, followed by plasterboard glued to the pir. The pir would need to be sealed with airtight tape to the window, and to the internal blockwork wall where it meets the reveal. You will only be able to do this if the frames are chunky, and can accommodate the extra build up. For anybody reading, if you have full fill cavity, you are not required to fit those worthless (fit after) cavity closers. If you do need to close a cavity, you would be much better off with a 50mm plus, bit of pir, and a foam gun. Hope you get it sorted. I would be asking for a copy of the written instructions that the window company received from your builders, getting Fensa involved. not paying any outstanding monies, and taking out a small claim against them. Best of luck getting it sorted.

My SE has speed 300 bearing each end for my steel, and 200mm for another. Even concrete lintels over internal doors have to have a 150 bearing if the door opening is wider than 900. I would check with the beam designer. Less than 100mm sounds iffy.

If the back wall is external ? North facing ? Could be as simple as a core drill, and an outside and inside bug grill. A second core drill and a humidity extractor. Simple, but might work, although might be too cool.

It would imo be better built from the aggregate blocks. Stronger and no cracking. Probably cheaper than the Celcon blocks.

I like the look of the grids.

100mm cavity with full fill cav32 probably won't get you to building regs. I expect you would need insulated plasterboard on the inside. That will reduce your internal usable area.

Welcome, it's a great place to be. Enjoy.

As @ProDave said above. Have your sparky on stand-by. From the meter it is up to you.

Or, as in my case. No earth connection at the fuse board.

I like it. Perhaps i'm odd.

I expect they will only be purchased by people who do insulation for a living, as a high ticket item . I doubt you will find one on Facebook or marketplace, so take care of getting scammed.

No, I can't see that's it's clear. I'm about to start building a new self build. I can't see that a new self build would get a grant. How am I missing it when reading ?