Big Jimbo

Do that myself, as I couldn't think of a better way of doing it. I agree with @Dave Jones. I works well.

I think the value engineering is One of the problems. Rather than the best, we want the cheapest. Things are now designed to last for a certain period of time. There will be nothing to show on the Antiques Road show in 100 years, and Fiona, will be out of a job.

easy access to that for a regular fire. Insurance, if they have any, will be impossible to get. Just saying. couple of burned out customers cars inside, and people will stop using them.

yep, just wrote up to 8 meters.

Large pieces of masonry falling from a commercial building onto my land, just missing my small child. HSE will be round within a few hours.

@torre Forgot about HSE. That is a great call.

As I said on the other thread. I think Banham do them in the London Area.

That makes sense, as timber will be much less of a heat conductor than screed.

You can no longer embed glass on the top of your wall either. @nod is right I'm afraid. Get a big dog, a geese, lots of outside lights, quality locks, and lots of visible cameras. The problem is. You are a nice guy. You have a nice car on the drive. Your house looks nice from the street. That means that you have probably got a few nice watches inside, and a couple of laptops. Some decent bling. As you have been burgled, you are now more likely to get done again. The local crack heads know where to go when they need another baggy. I feel for you. That's London I'm afraid. I see that Tony Martin recently passed away. Limping Scum Fearon said he understood why Martin shot him, and killed his 16 year old pal. I kid you not. My friend, many years ago, got Six years inside for torturing a burgler who he caught in his house. The only other thing I can think of, is some of those concertina grills. I think Banham used to do them. You close, and lock them when you are out, and have them on all ground floor openings. Bloody ugly though, but a second defence. You are going to have to turn the place into a bloody prison to try and keep the scum out. When I was in London, I was always told. "Make your place look like a pain in the butt to get into, and hope they go nextdoor"

@DevilDamo Previously, when I applied for a NCS rear extension, I just stated "Up to 8 meters" If any of the neighbours had a problem they could have brought it up with the council.

O.K I expect that what you now see is what will remain. That has not been put up as a temp until the roof is built underneath. These type of yards litter London. The good old back street garage. Council planning enforcement, Your local councillors, Your local M.P. You will be told, that's it's been there for years, and there is nothing that can be done about it. Would also be worth a call to Council environmental dept. They will be storing all sorts os $hite in there, oil, fluids, paints etc. They won't be complying with fireproof cabs etc. When I was a kid in London, a lot of my mates worked in places like that.

It's such a shame that Warmcell seems so hard to get done, and costly. In America, they seem to sell the stuff in Home Depot, and have the machines instore for hire. DIY in a weekend.

I know these look smart, and have been around for years. However, I have never fitted them for myself. I wouldn't call it open heart surgery, more like keyhole surgery. I'm not going to start fitting them anytime soon. They are a pain in the butt IMO. Best of luck with it. They are not fit for purpose with my size hands.

My own thoughts are that, I would do nothing, and if planning come back to you, show them the picture above, and wave goodbye.

First of all I think you are right to consider moving the steps. They look like proper ankle breakers. A double, double garage. You lucky blighter. A wall about a foot away to hold back the path would be good, or perhaps an injected dpm above the part height.

The first thing I would say is that if you intend using the same gates, you are going to be replacing the existing posts with something the same size ? It does not look like you have the width for meatier posts, if you want to use the same gates. If you are not taking high things through the gate, you might be better off having the posts extended to above the gates. Fitting a crossmember to keep the two posts apart, and stop them bending in towards each other. (Think goal post)

Indeed, and those little blighters, love to chew through wood, wires, underfelt. Spreading out and reaching places that have never heard of them. Coming to a house near you soon !

There is clearly "Bent pieces" The bottom flashings bent up towards the sky before being folded over the row of tiles below the window ! You ask whats wrong. You are clearly told by more than One person..............They have been fitted incorrectly, recessed too far into the roof. Fitted by a muppet. These have not just started to leak. They have been leaking since the day they were fitted. If you don't believe us, send the pictures to Velux. They will confirm "Fitted by a muppet". They will be able to supply you with the hardware and a set of instructions to enable you to have a competent person take these windows out and re-fit them correctly. Scaffolding for access, and a couple of days work maximum.

The front plate usually pushes slightly to One side or the other in order to remove. Hope that helps.

You are supposed to be able to get to everything inside, by taking the front plate off......I have never fitted these because, "Not with my hands chum"

@SteamyTea I hope you are going to re-emburse Costa for the obvious theft of the stirring sticks.

If you are in Hertfordshire and have Glis Glis, the above won't do. I would be looking at stainless steel woven mesh. With Glis Glis, the above won't do. They will be through that in seconds.

That won't cut it I'm afraid. not enough flashing to enable you to cut enough of the tile away. You will then risk wind blown driven rain. Just have them put right, and have no further problems. Anything else is a bodge, they have been fitted wrong. I will stop commenting on this thread. Seems like a bodge is what the OP is looking for, rather than dealing with what is actually wrong, and putting it right.

I will probably get shot here, but my 12 year old Physics tells me that heat rises, and therefore whats above stopping heat loss, is more important than whats below. At my daughters, because I was going to be gluing down LVT, i simply when over the floorboards with 9mm ply making sure it was tight and left no gaps. Just doing that, seemed to make a big difference to how the floor felt underfoot, as opposed to the bare floorboards.

I have never done this, but I have seen No2 done. The problem on older properties is that the floorboards are quite ofter tongue and groove, and getting them up without breaking a lot of them is hard work. Would you have room for 20mm pir on top of the boards, with 9mm ply on top of that ? 30mm loss in room height ? I don't know what the difference in heat loss between 20mm PIR, or even 10mm PIR against the fluffy stuff laid between joists ?