Radian

Bluetooth Beacon detector...

To make the idea a bit clearer, here it is shown in thicker green bits:

Could you create a small space between your back to back showers and drop down into the WC, Boot room and formal dining on that line below?

Agreed. Caring for a 92 year old and 22oC is needed otherwise necessary clothing becomes too restrictive and creates mobility issues.

The flood alarm bit has got me thinking. If it were mine I'd cobble together something that used WiFi or ethernet to push me a notification on my phone using the Pushover app. This has a very fast and reliable response - I set up an alert system for my elderly mother to call for help with it. If you wanted to go down that route there are some readymade varieties at the low end of the market (I don't know what would interface with loxone): https://cablematic.com/en/products/smart-wifi-water-leak-detector-compatible-with-google-home-alexa-and-ifttt-AN13600/ For a dumb relay output sensor that you could light some LED strip with this and a 12V PSU: https://cablematic.com/en/products/wiring-detector-water-leak-LB056/#extra_product_info

When we had steels put in for our garden room extension, the builder started replacing the sandstone with a grey mortar mix. I told 'em to hop it and leave it to me. 🙄 When we had our house built I made notes of the brick type (Ibstock Chailey), the sandstone (Purbeck from Suttle quarry) and the mortar mix, 1:2:4 white cement, lime, ginger sand.

I think I can see the original buff coloured mortar and the more recent repairs (yours?) with grey mortar. The original is almost certainly made with yellow sand and may be 1:2:4 which is the same mix as my house was built with in 1998 (snap). White cement is key to matching your mortar.

Same is true of our shower when the plughole's blocked with hair. A good 33l of warm water slowly making its way to the outside world. 🙄

What would Kirsty say? But seriously, the cost of fitting out half the garage (leaving front half for storage) wouldn't necessarily be much greater than doing the interior conversion.

Worth checking. Imagine that you wanted to set a low minimum temperature, say 10oC for frost protection. You don't want the unit to actively cool to this temperature. In this case a "heating only" mode becomes essential. In fact, the minimum setpoint when cooling is involved, becomes much higher i.e. 18oC in my case. But for comfort, I guess full auto is acceptable to just trim the temperature.

Let's move this out of @Jenki's blog to here:

To pick-up from where we started looking at energy monitoring in @Jenki's blog post, I bought four of these on Monday to add to my collection. They're actually a little different to the ones I previously bought although look identical. I only mention this because I've not opened them up but I did with the other ones and the relay was printed with 16A@240V and they seemed OK with a 3kW kettle load. Although the 13A plug and kettle lead did warm up as expected. I sawed the bottom plate of those to get inside and the PCB traces were very well tracked for current and separation.

Unless you buy them on Ebay. (That sentence works both ways... not so expensive, but potentially not so good - from what I've read on BH)

I'm going to have to talk you through how to set up Tuya convert, MQTT and Node-Red on your Rpi. Grab one of these And we'll get started.

I'm a huge fan of A2A since getting a couple of mini splits in my outbuilding. I've been meaning to thank you for your blog post because I started looking into the possibility of using A2A to heat our garage extension right after reading your post back in August. The clincher was the ensuing heatwave which made the room-in-roof unbearably hot. A Solar PV array has since gone up there and now the magic combo - Sun shines, room gets hot stays cool, is a dream come true. If it averages out at around the 7W you were metering, then that's nearly 25% of the total energy use this month. Seems a little high. But then again if it does the magic work of keeping everything up at 20oC for les than 25p a day then it's very hard to complain. I'm seeing consumption of around 2.5kWh per day for keeping around 60m2 cosy but I leave it on 24/7 so similar to yours at around 0.1kW/h Your system seems to be in what my Daikin units call "auto" mode. This switches between heating and cooling to achieve the desired set-point. Mine additionally has discrete cooling and heating modes which means the units turn off once the set-point is reached. This allows a little bit of under/overshoot but saves a small amount of energy. It also widens the available range for the set-point.

Certainly the diverter is the ideal solution but £200 is about the minimum you have to pay for one, and it might prove difficult to install unless the immersion is near the main meter tails where the current clamp goes. If the water is normally heated by gas and the idea is to drop the tank stat to a slightly lower temperature (say 50oC instead of 60oC) and let excess PV top it up now and then, a simpler scheme like @Andrea C is considering might be worth doing. Going full Eddi with wireless communication to allow the CT to be placed remotely is a ~£600 proposition and displacing gas at £0.11/kWh means running an immersion at full power for almost 2000 hours with it before breaking even.

Now I don't think the electricians around here would be very impressed, but this is what you asked for: wifitu-wi-fi-controlled-fused-spur-tuya-edition Switch Rating 13A (3kW) resistive, 1000W Incandescent/Halogen lighting, 500W Fluorescent lighting/LED, 100W CFL lighting Here's a reddit discussion about the kind of thing you want to do that might be worth a read through

I've had a batch of 40 Lithium Ion cells come out of storage after at least seven years and still be fine. These were small single cells with a built-on battery management circuit. It's far from obvious that you would have a problem but that's not to say you won't. If someone is looking for £1000, it's tempting to say they're fairly confident that it will be serviceable - but unless there's some sort of guarantee it's obviously risky. Certainly I'd pay by credit card and ask what would happen if the battery refused to take a charge.

This might be of interest:

Yes the state of the chamber out in our road is quite alarming. The three conduits branching off to the houses are usually underwater and the junction box is somehow dangling just above.

Everyone seems to have their own favourite and I'd be pleased to see other suggestions, but for this job I'd probably use Puraflex.

Inbuilt cell under-voltage cut-out protection doesn't usually prevent charging, whereas when implemented in the external CMS, it may well be a preventative measure. Helps the OEM flog more batteries. Although I must admit my experience is mostly with smaller BMS.

Ah, this is where it gets a bit complicated. The ASHP will be timed to heat your HW but will also make up any shortfall with direct electric power into an immersion. That is possibly where your big consumption is coming from. The ideal would be to ensure HW heating coincides with PV availability to match this consumption, which may or may not have already been taken into consideration. Furthermore, there is scope for ensuring that HW heating is more intelligent than relying on a timer alone. Unless there's an actual demand for HW, heating it can be delayed if there's going to be Solar PV a little later in the day - or even better, a Solar diverter is employed to make sure HW is only energised when an excess of Solar PV is available. The logistics are what makes this tricky, and the fact that I'm not aware of any commercial offerings that meet these needs.

Had some goons messing around in the BT inspection pit down our end of our private road a few months back. When I asked, they said they were checking if they could get FFTC down the conduit - and it looked good, advising that we look out for a sticker on the main road cabinet. Well, the sticker has been up for a couple of weeks now but the checker linked to in this thread says no.

Still, if it were mine, I'd be sticking three or four Solar PV modules in series directly on the main terminals and monitor the V and I to see what gives.