HerbJ

We also have an Ark Residential New Build Defect Insurance Policy, underwritten by Elite Insurance and TDI were the insurance brokers, who arranged cover. The Premium of £2968 was also paid on CC in May 2015. Our Building Completion Certificate was provided to Ark in February 2017, in accordance with the Policy Documents, and we received the Residential Latent Defects Insurance Certificate on 8 March 2017.This is defined as "practical completion" in the insurance policy.The endorsement on the original Policy Documents issued in May 2015 states: "The insurance will commence on completion of the Residential Property, the issue of the Approval Certificate and the payment of the premium in full. The Certificate of Insurance will then be issued in confirmation." We've had no correspondence from TDI, so I spoke with them this morning, following @Bitpipe post yesterday and a brief conversation with him this morning. There was nothing on our file to indicate that there was a problem and TDI confirmed they had received no communication from Ark or Elite Insurance relating to our LDI policy. TDI have now followed up with Ark Insurance Group to determine the status of our insurance cover, and reported as follows: We are still covered, as we provided the Completion Certificate in February 2017 and a valid Residential Latent Defects Insurance Certificate was issued by Elite Insurance before they went into administration in July 2017. The Elite Insurance risks were taken over by Armour Risk Management, who are now the insurance underwriter for our LDI Policy. The difference between @bitpipe and our situation is that he has not been issued with a Building Completion Certificate to date and so had not been able to provide this to the underwriters before July 2017. This is was what @Bitpipe and I thought may be the case when we talked earlier....

Our linen cupboard is a similar size and configuration - in fact a bit smaller 1800X500MM internal dimensions with 1300mm side double doors. We faced the same problem and in the end went with a steel modular system . It's a well known system called ELFA - see www.aplaceforeverything.co.uk/elfa‎. We're happy with it though it's not a perfect configuration for the space, which has the 1st floor UFH manifold located in it . It saved a great deal of messing around and worked for us. This system may work a little better with your slightly bigger cupboard and allow a slightly more efficient configuration of shelves.

Review your floor joist locations and clash check against various penetrations and interfaces, such as MVHR ducts shower traps, especially if you have a wet room or low profile trays 110mm sewage piping etc We had to move some joists, not much but some at standard 400mm centres would have clashed ......... Even though I thought ahead and had the joist layout revised, I still had to check and check again, as the TF erectors didn't pay sufficient attention to this detail. You;'re doing great! Keep going.....

Time to create your Sealed Bid Form, so that everyone submits all the data in the same format and also provides all the data you require for moving forward. I attach a typical "Offer to Purchase - STC" Form used by EA's , which you can adapt and improve for your purposes. Offer to Purchase - STC Form.pdf

I agree with this and my 6/8 weeks was just something for @JSHarris to think about, having a better idea of what he can support from his side. When we bought the house (that we demolished for our new build) we offered a bonus of £20,000 to the seller if they exchanged by a set date. There was some history with them procastrinating with sellling and they wanted a higher price than we really wanted to pay. So essentially we agreed to a lower price but with a bonus to take them to their asking price, but only payable if they exchanged on a specified date,. They missed the date by a day because they/ their solicitor wasted weeks. So, we paid less, with a lot of moaning and groaning..... It something to consider in your price and sealed bid process to keep the focus on the exchange date

You could set out a simple sealed bid procedure, which outlines your of selection criteria and may be based not only price but also: 1) cash buyer and ability to proceed quickly - they must give your their solicitors name and details with bid. No solicitor provided would put them down your list! 2) firm commitment to exchange/completion date - state your preference, say 6/8 weeks to exchange and rank their ability to comply etc On your part, you need to be able to meet your side of the deal and get all the paper work and solicitor in order asap

We installed minimum 926mm wide on the Ground Floor, with some of the rooms having double doors = main entrance, lounge, dining room and kitchen. Principally for wheel chair access but we wanted good size doors our design and "look". The 1st and 2nd Floor doors are mainly 826mm wide for main bedrooms with some 716mm wide for ensuite bath and shower room.. All the doors are 2040mm high.

Do you mean the filter on the kitchen extract grill, which is a grease filter and, at least in our system? This is the only room grill with a separate filter on our system and we change this filter at the same time as the MVHR inlet filter. It is only 200mm approx square and is in a metal farme, so standard filter material can be cut and fitted to suit -in fact, we saved a load of such material used for packing the G7 filters delivered from the Netherlands.

I have used Tops Filters www.topswtwfilters.nl . They are in the Netherlands but their service is pretty good. I have been changing inlet filters every 100 days but the extract filter stays relatively clean and doesn't need changing for a year or more . I use a F7 filter in the inlet and G4 in the extract. The inlet filters look exactly the same after 100 days as the photo posted by @JSHarris

Yes, Openreach removed my overhead supply before demolition in late 2014/early 2015. As I remember, they were remarkably efficient with virtually no lead time and it cost nothing. One guy was on site and it took 30 minutes max.

I have been thinking about this since I completed my house, in a similar way to @JSHarris and @jack above (in fact using a variation of his detail for my sliding windows), as I always felt that I could/should have done something better..... Anyway, I still get regularly emails/newsletters from Greenbuilding Store and in a recent Newsletter they detailed an improvement that they have made to detailing of door threshold to reduce cold bridging using a product called Compacfoam - https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/compacfoam-200/. This product may offer a good solution to cold bridging for various different construction methods, including the passive slab and I can see how I could have improved my detail for door threshold. I have no idea of cost, but Greenbuilding Store would appear to be stockists.

I believe this the case and you may be able to save the cost of the pre-heater, if the enthalpy HE is fitted. I couldn't do this on the PAUL Novus 450 because the preheater was not an additional unit that but part of the standard design and included as part of the MVHR unit. This may be possible on some MVHR units, FOR which the preheater is an "extra" feature and installed separately.

I agree with @peterw. When I was getting proposal for my MVHR, the cost of the Enthalpy HE was only £350( excl VAT) extra to the standard HE. This was for a PAUL 450 MVHR unit, a large volume and relatively expensive unit. The cost of a replacement enthalpy HE from Germany for about 850 Euros, at the time. So, I am a little surprised at the costs being quoted to you for replacing your HE. There is no labour involved. it will be simply taking out one and fitting the other back in its place - just like the routine cleaning and maintenance for the HE. There is no set up work or adjustments to be made.

We have a PAUL Novus 450 with the Enthalpy Heat Exchanger. The HE was specifically recommended by PAUL Scotland because we have a relatively large house - 337m3, excluding garage, but only my OH and myself normally live there and the concern was that the air would get too dry, in this situation. The HE seems to work well and we are very happy with the air quality ( we use F7 Pollen Inlet filters). Internal Temp and RH are currently 25 C and 43%. The fan setting is currently on 2, the normal setting (actually the 100%, BR Setting) to give us a little bit more air flow in these hot and sunny conditions. We normally have it on 1 Low ( 60% of Normal) for most of the year .

+1

Yes, @Bitpipe is correct, we spent a lot time checking and double checking all our openings - windows and doors - as part of our detailed acceptance and approval of the timberframe design. We had a detailed door schedule, which was used to calculate all the tolerances and openings for ordering of door sets, for all the doors except a few doors on the 2nd floor, which were bought from Howdens - in retrospect a mistake, for all the reasons listed by @Bitpipe. We matched all the ironmongery on these doors and found a really good supplier - the same one used by FSN Doors, who supplied all the doorsets - see https://www.morehandles.co.uk

This is essentially what I installed for my 1st Floor. I used a relatively expensive system, with some focus on the sound proofing aspects, but there are much cheaper systems available with different floor buildups. i enclose the Firmacell flooring info and the integrated product I used ECO-10U Pt E.pdf Fermacell_Flooring_brochure_s_1109.pdf

+1 to @newhome The first fix plumbing and electrical ( and the MVHR ducting ) on my build were installed with the same care and attention as the finishing work. It was a clear sign of the quality of my contractors and was often commented on by other contractors and visitors. It's the sign of a poor builder/ contractor (and supervising architect/project manager) if they ignore and accept poor quality work because it's going to be hidden later. There are plenty of stories on BH and elsewhere of major developers not installing insulation etc because no one is checking and it's hidden in the fabric of the build.

When I needed to reconnect the phone line on my new build, I had to go with an overhead cable ( which had been disconnected by BT for free prior to the demolition of the old house). I wanted to get a line installed early, as I needed to get it routed through to my equipment rack as part of the electrical 1st Fix. I phoned around to get an idea of prices. BT were a pain to deal with and insisted on going to them for the service, as well as charging £150 approx for the installtion( from memory). I eventually went with TalkTalk, who installed the line for free and much quicker (in a week or so)than BT were promising. I only paid the line rental during then build but it came with free internet, which was useful for all my contractors. Again from memory, the new connection was installed by a contractor, who I was working for BT but it was all organised by TalkTalk. I could have gone underground but BT were quoting £1500 for connecting into a line with their excavation being only a metre or so.

+1 to We installed two Access points, powered by PoE, in wardrobes either side of the house. We also have a outside Access Point, to be installed at some point. We have multiple points adjacent to all TV's, for connection to Smart TV'S but also for distributing 4K TV a central point to every TV from a 4K HDR HDBaseT™ Matrix ,and at least two other points in every room. Also outside for Security Cameras.

There was a good thread on e build in 2015 - see http://www.ebuild.co...hop#entry105591 . Most of my contribution is still relevant , as follows: I haven't bought kitchen appliances from Megabad, but I have bought bathroom ceramics, bath and bathroom fittings/accessories (V&B, Duravit, Grohe,Geberit ) for 5 bathrooms and 2 cloakrooms ( 2 houses) new build recently and old house in 2010. Good service and terrific prices but strangely they don't seem to be competitive on shower enclosures, shower trays. There is another German supplier Reuter that my son has used Reuter http://www.reuter-shop.com/ - this is their English website, which is an advantage as I think Megabad have only a German language website and takes a bit longer to navigate ( though you can through Google Translate). There are dozens of German, Dutch and Belgian websites offering everything you might need..There a some tips from my experience that may help: Plan carefully before you order and ensure that you ordering the exact Model No as you would buy in the UK (go to showrooms to choose your stuff and make detailed notes and get the catalogues) . It's not so much of a problem with ceramics, taps etc but it can be problematic with anything electrical. Two examples - i bought a Keuco Bathroom cabinet and it did not meet UK Wiring Regs for installation in a bathroom. My son bought a Grohe Red Duo boiling tap and it was German model, which did not meet WRSA regulations (one of which is that the highest temperature must be less than 99.5C ( if I remember correctly) Also, it came with different fittings and without the filter included with the UK version, which is why it was cheaper. One very good thing is that these two suppliers, and almost certainly all similar German suppliers, have very good and very efficient returns policies.My son returned it quickly, they sent him a Returns Label and instructions by email and received a full refund with no hassle. All the prices are in euros. I have a SAGA Credit card (no comments please...) that has O% Sterling Transaction Fee (usually 2,75% for Visa and 3% for AMEX) and also charges best market exchange rates. So, this is an instant 2.75% saving over a normal credit card or FX sites..... There are a few companies that offer this benefIt - MoneyMarket,com comparison site is a good source We have also used AVOLTA, VOLTUS, eibMARKT ( Germany)for KNX and electrical items, VIEFFE (Italy)for Elica Kitchen Extractor Fan, DACHMAX(Poland) for FAKRO 3G rooflight,

Not as a specific one off commission but they are all hand blown icicles, each with individual LEDS's, see the Contemporary Chandelier Company for more details - www.contemporarychandeliercompany.co.uk Not cheap but they do have a wow factor and the large hall needed a feature to make it all work. They were my OH bit of bling...My bling was the AV systems( still to be finished) and the lighting control system.

Our glass balustrades were fitted in a similar manner but with rubber washers and threaded bolts.

Very nice stairs. We installed something similar, using 12mm toughened glass with similar fittings. It was designed, manufactured and test fitted in the works by a great company in Dublin, Jea Stairs. It was installed in the house, a timberframe build, and fitted perfectly.One of the photos shows the test fitting on a steel plate fitting base, in the works. the stairs are oak and Jea supplied all the glass, handrails, landing capping pieces and installation materials. My two cippies installed it, with a bit of additional muscle for some of the glass panels.

I agree with this. I was PM my build and I was on site every day, including evenings and weekends when deliveries got delayed and when suppliers/subcontractors needed to be there. My OH was also heavily involved in looking after key elements - bathrooms, selection of tiles, colours, fittings etc. She also acted as the Project Accountant. It is a huge commitment and I was retired, in the fortunate position to drop everything and treat it as a full time job. By the way, Project Management was my profession, major construction of offshore installations and LNG facilities - multi $billion projects with huge a huge staff support. I found it very demanding, as I did not have a managing contractor but I managed and coordinated all the trades. I did not have the specialist building knowledge but I was very experienced at managing contractors, budgets, schedule, legal/contracts, etc. and, crucially, I had a few friends who were developers and builders, who provided recommendation and advice when needed. So, think long and hard about taking on the PM role by yourself, unless you can stay on top of every aspect of the build project every day. On the other hand, it's not clear to me what exactly your architect role will be , if he only spending 1 to 2 days a week on your project. So, I would recommend that you establish his roles and responsibilities, including Budget Cash flow and payment of contractors Selection if contractors - how will you be involved with selection and approval Legal and contract negotiation Contract and scope changes Resolution of technical issues - electrical, etc Project insurance, including review of all contractor/subcontractors insurance Interface with BC Selection of materials and fittings - sanitaryware, tiles, kitchen, etc etc Delivery and receipt of materials Commissioning etc etc I compromise solution might be for you to employ a PM but first you need to establish and define the architect/PM proposed role and responsibilities. This will allow you to develop and agree an interface responsibility matrix for what the PM and you are responsible for and what your key decision/hold /approval points need to be as the client. This should allow you to set a sensible working arrangement and ensure that the PM is fulfilling his responsibilities to you as the client. Best of luck with your house.