BotusBuild

In this diagram from SWW's Site Manager Guide , what does "DT" just above the Double check valve stand for? What size duct should I be looking for? 63mm external? I'll be using 25mm MDPE pipe. What insulation should be used, and how easy is it to install? Would it be sufficient to put up a wood frame with the standpipe and tap attached to it? Or do I need to create a box with the standpipe inside?

I like the general idea. I wonder how long it will take for the many participating members of the alliance to reach agreement? Who will create something based on a draft, which then spawns a branch "standard" and it all ends in acrimony (did I mention I've seen this before? No? Oh, sorry about that ? ) And with a Chinese entity (Wulian) in the pack , I wonder how long it will be before some Western state nation screams foul?

I know, I know, just can't find a Round Tuit ?

The same happened to us when the cowboys came round and put in 300mm of rockwool insulation in our loft, effectively blocking the draft up the gap into the loft. As the rockwool has settled it has got a little better, but we still suffer a little.

I was in a slightly different situation in that I had no mortgage on the current house. We have ended up remortgaging current house to purchase out plot and have about £50K to get started on the build. Our new mortgage is with Metro Bank. Buildstore Mortgage Services brokered the deal

Mid/Late 70's - Some Genesis, Beatles, Dire Straits, and making mix tapes on a Sunday evening from the Top40 countdown

I was reminded recently when going through old family photos, of the time when I was 14 or 15 digging by hand the foundations for an extension. Had to go over 9ft deep to go underneath storm and foul drains, wrap them in EPS, install more rebar than I care to remember, and then mix and pour all by hand. The BCO said afterwards that we could have built a 5 story block of flats on what we (I) had done. And all I got was a new stereo !!

1mm should do - BUT - what do the instructions say? Dare I say RTFM ?

Only if the stove is in an alcove. If its out in the open, let convection do its thing

I like simple solutions ? How about leaving out one side piece of the insulation to let any water flow away naturally? Then put it back in place in when you are ready to perform the concrete pour.

My architect is submitting the garage as a separate application for similar reasons as yours has suggested

Riddler, @Jeremy Harris's comments notwithstanding (which I agree with), your proposed approach to installing the ground pipework first and then connecting when you are ready is a very common approach. Some comments:- Try to avoid putting them under anything that will end up as a solid surface like "the new concrete pad for the stable", just in case there is a problem in the future and you need to access it (unlikely, but it falls in the "you never know what might happen" category and you state you have plenty of other ground to work with anyway) Regarding the tank in the Bosch unit, I am assuming that is the hot water integrated tank? For your underfloor heating, you may need to consider a buffer tank as well. I recommend that you do not go by the rule of thumb for the coils in the ground - get someone with experience and the right design tools to determine what it is you will need. Fo this they will need a good set of plans and details of build to determine heat losses of the dwelling. Welcome to the site and good luck with your build

Thanks Peter

I have a quote from South West Water for a new connection that includes VAT for 3 items under the heading "Non-Construction" - an Application Fee, and Administration Fee and Contribution toward general cost of Water Regs Inspections. Can I ask them to zero-rate these items (total VAT amount is £29.80)? FYI - the other £1,356 of the quote total is zero rated.

Thanks - that confirms my worst fears - childhood trauma's of touring caravan holidays and being the eldest sibling (therefore apparently in charge of doing the emptying). And why was every holiday timed to coincide with the wettest weather the location had seen in the last 4 millenia?

What has anyone done when no mains sewer is available and the planned sewage plant/tank has not been installed? We are at the very beginning of our build.

Any Yorkshiremen want to extend a welcome ?

My approach FWIW - Try once on fleabay, gumtree or your favoured selling site. If they don't go, then fling them.

Yasir - your budget will not come from the lenders - it will come from knowing what you are going to build, which itself comes from your design. This can be a circular process until you settle on a design that you is acceptable both from a "needs" perspective and a "I can afford that" perspective. This is a balancing act. I like to keep in mind the builders triad (at least that's what I call it) of Quality - Cost - Time. For quality don't think just Good vs Bad, but think Need vs "Would really like". Also within that triad, think which two are moderately inflexible and which one can flex most. For me the big flex is Time with cost and quality being only partially so - you can't afford to be completely rigid on any of them IMHO.

I see three "valves". Could you explain the one in the middle (the brass one). I assume the upper and lower ones are simple isolating valves.

When I spent a few years in the renewables industry I did my G3 course because of designing unvented systems. I had no previous experience but this did not seem to matter. I did mine through Mitsubishi Ecodan because they were one of our suppliers about 6 years ago. It was too difficult - got a decent set of notes and we also did a little practical work as well. For the two trained plumbers on the course it was a necessary but boring day off the tools

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere, but my searches are obviously not good enough ... I have a new water supply site survey arranged (for a single dwelling of 3 bedrooms), and some of the documents I've read on the SW Water website seem to indicate that a plumber is needed to provide the pipework from the property side, but this seems to be something that any competent DIYer can achieve. My intention is only to connect to a stand pipe to start with (along with the appropriate non-return valve or check/double-check valve), and I figure I can dig a 750mm deep trench and drip a few metres of 25mm blue pipe for SWW to connect to their equipment. My question therefore is - am I allowed to dig that trench and provide the short length of blue pipe? Follow on question #1 - can someone point me at a specification for the width, depth of the trench and what infill should be used below and around the pipe (pea shingle?) Follow on question #2 - can someone point me at the spec for the valve/s need on my side before I get to the standpipe? Thanks

Hi Yasir, and welcome to the crazy world of self building ? My advice would be take your time (if you can), and ensure that you settle on a design you and your family are happy with, not one the architect would like you to build. Always keep in mind, or ask how is that going to be built? how is that going to work? how much is that going to cost? Being close to your new plot is fantastic (unlike my 400 mile round trips) but I guess it could be very tempting to fall into the "just going to site, dear" trap. This forum has many aspects to it, and you can dip in and out as you deem necessary. Generally the forum structure is great, but if you are unsure, then use the search facility. One thing you will find is the use of acronyms and abbreviations peculiar to the build industry. There is a thread on what they mean Good luck

Although you can't see in the photo's, I did tie the top of the ladder around the tree before performing any removal of branches, however I was never on the ladder when removing significantly sized pieces. It was a PITA untying, moving ladder, retying etc. but necessary for safety. The ladder never left the ground apart from when I was moving it, and never ended up "in the tree" ?

Your right, I could have done that. However .... For the first tree there was the small matter of a power line to considered ? Despite the neighbours on that side having sold their property recently, I didn't really want to upset them ? For both trees there were other trees and plants in their vicinities that I wanted to avoid damaging, particularly those belonging to the other neighbours who we do want keep happy ? Also, I had some leave needed using up, and some stress that needed relieving. Seemed like a good idea to combine both ?