BotusBuild

Finished connections to cold water manifold yesterday (last job of the week). Think I should put stop ends on the ones on the future proofing slots? (Rhetorical)

Fair enough. This seems different to everything else I've absorbed on the topic. Let us know how you get on - i hope it goes well. For my stone slips I think I'll stick to having what is recommended by Nudura.

Are you certain about this? Everything I have read (I'm also doing Nudura but with stone slips) is that you need to have a scratch coat render applied first

Thank you @dpmiller, that seemed the logical way.

And before you ask, there are no instructions in the box

Should the red plastic knurled screw on the top be loosened off after fitting? left tightened? removed?

It was a rhetorical question 😁 But answer your Qs: Yes it's been planned. HWC Buffer tank for UFH UFH manifold for lower floor The electrical CU's A comms cabinet The MVHR (already there on the right) H & C manifolds ( to those pipes on the left)

Welcome to madhouse 🙂

The whole "planning advice request" is a con trick to collect unnecessary fees from unwarranted members of the public 🤑

Run away, leave them to their own devices.

That's not going to plug the £20bn black hole 😁

Just recalled our BCO (Stroma) said next time he wants to visit if completion. No first fix had happened at that point 😁

Or, gradually add 2p pieces until you get level, then you can measure the depth of 2p pieces. If it's 2cm (10x2p pieces), you've got a 2% slope. Other coins are available.

From the second photo, it would seem you are replacing an existing gate. JFDI 😁

@Omnibuswoman, knowing your back story, and who is doing your electrics, I agree that you should get your first fix electrics all in one go, and use hot and cold manifolds or plenty of isolation on the plumbing. FYI, just had our house electric first fix done. It took him 4 days. I had put all the conduit in place, and the sockets where we wanted and marked up where all the lights were going. This approach is likely to be cheapest in the longer term. PM me or call if you want a sanity chat

That'll be a nice drive 😁

Stephen, Is there a simpler way of just taking a spur from an existing socket? Or inserting the new socket in an existing ring ( this should be done by qualified electrician, but your suggested solution will also require qual. leccy as well)

If you can get the screed pourers to float it level then you might be able to lay flooring directly. Otherwise, a little levelling screed mixed as runny as feasible 🙂 to make sure it finds the dips

Does you LPA (Local Planning Authority) provide a"pre-planning advice" service? It may be chargeable.

Welcome Dave. What is/are the reason/s that you will need planning permission for the workshop/garage? Size? Location relative to house? Conservation area? Something else? You may fall under permitted development and therefore no planning application required

That sounds like a reasonable way to do it. It will work. The key is whether there is enough insulation. Can you add 50mm PIR on top of the EPS and then the screed with the UFH pipes. This would increase your overall U-value and make the heating a little more efficient (= cheaper to run). Insulate as much as you can now before the screed is poured

I've seen this at NSBRC - https://www.tilingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/product/jackoboard-plano-tile-backer-board Seems to be a good alternative. Not sure on price in comparison to the yellow gypsum board

I did that on our brick retaining wall when our kids were toddlers. Removed later as earlier stated by someone. Would re-used on several other projects over the years. Only recently took the last of that wood to the tip (26 years later)

The sister-in-law always brings her dogs 🙂