BotusBuild

Damn. Having been filled with water for nearly 2 weeks, just hanging around at atmospheric pressure without a sign of a drip, applying the 2.5 bar showed a small weep where the brass 90 at the top connects to the manifold. Time to undo, re-PTFE and tighten up again. Will just air pressure test this time along with soapy water sprayed on the joints. Meanwhile, the other DIY manifold is on test 🙂

My DIY H or C manifold under test using my DIY tester at 2.5 bar

DIY H or C manifold being tested

Following a few threads and a YT video, I decided I was competent enough to create an air pressure tester for plumbing purposes. I will not be using this beyond the pressure shown in the picture as I deem this more than enough for the H&C water pipes it will be used to test in the house. Its first use will be on my DIY H&C manifolds - more to follow. This is designed to used on 15mm or 22mm pipework. The bend are because I used leftovers from old repair work in current house, but should allow connection to mounted equipment to be a little easier

Liking the approach of Alto Energy also. Will be interested in what they come back with also.

Or you can just get the Starlink one for £80 https://www.spacelink-installations.co.uk/shop/accessories/starlink-ethernet-adapter/

HANDY HINT: When you run the conduit leave a LOOP of nylon string in the conduit to pull new cable should they be required in the future. Or just one length of string, and if you pull a new cable, pull a replacement piece of string through at the same time 🙂

As long as you follow the distance and water table guidelines start practicing. Take photos along the way, and just don't fall in the hole (yourself or with the digger)

It is something I have considered. I got it as part of my degree (15th edition if I recall correctly) and failed to keep it current as my career took a different path. I wonder if I could retrain for free having been made redundant and now unemployed?😁

@MBT6 Been building new house since 2020, and still going. Current budget sheet is showing a projected cost per square metre of £1183.10. That is based on actual work done and projected future costs. To be done - electrics, plumbing, plastering, upstairs UFH, ASHP (although should get that via grants), sanitary ware, exterior cladding. Kitchen is bought so costed for already. Trades I've had in so far: concrete pourers steel framer window fitters GRP roofer groundworker Trades to get in: Electrician (but only because it needs certifying at the end) Renderer (before stone slip cladding)

From bitter experience this can be difficult to achieve from inside, so taking back tiles and "working from outside" maybe a clever solution. Do be careful NOT to block off any designed natural ventilation to the attic space as you could end up with condensation problems up there. I wouldn't cap off the cavity as again, there is probably some natural ventilation going on to keep condensation down in the cavity itself.

Ooh, now I know I've got a target for mine 🙂

Part P applies to electrical installations that operate at voltages not exceeding 1000 V a.c. Notifiable work includes new installations, house re-wires, and the installation of new circuits. Notifiable work also includes additions to existing circuits in special locations. The kitchen is not considered a special location if I recall correctly, and in my view you are are not adding any new circuits. Therefore, no Part P certification is required, just care to isolate the relevant existing circuits when moving or adding sockets.

OMG - the Perpertual Ocean youtube video in that article is mesmerising

I have a long (50m) extension reel with 4 sockets which I have used for the last 4 years while building. It's not let me down yet

Sounds like a need for Web- or I-joists. As a guide only (!) We have some 5.4m spans and had web joists at 400 c/c. Each joist was 300mm deep and 100mm wide. This is for a warm roof with green roof on top. If you can afford it get a structural engineer to do the calculations for you, with the caveat they will likely overspec for insurance purposes

Getting confused about which PIR (kingspan,celotex,recticel etc.) To buy. Need some 100mm to "thicken" a few walls.

Q2 first as that's easiest 🙂 Fit more PIR. Always fit more insulation if you can 🙂 Q1. My approach would be as follows: Membrane bringing it up the walls by 250mm 100mm PIR Around the edges fit an extra 50mm of PIR the width of the studs you propose to fit. (for belt and braces approach, seal the joints between the PIR) Lay pipe and screed in the resulting "paddling pool" You should now have a screeded floor with an edge of PIR showing, the width of your proposed studs Now fit your stud work atop the PIR edge, fit the PIR between and plasterboard the walls.

I'm glad I was not the only one wondering whether 114 panels was a typo 🙂

Glad to have provided some amusement on a cool Sunday. Jigsaw? Not new but doing a grand job. Which way is up? Mickey's on top Nuts dropped? A few expletives along the way today, but nuts were not in use today. Glory hole? I seem to putting holes in floor and walls for this ventilation system, right now not thinking any of them are glorious. And as for Minnie's nuts ... sorry to break the news about the transition

You can go down the LA BC route (Local Authority Building Control), in which case I recommend going and having a chat if you can to get their guidance. Alternatively you can choose a private BC company. Again, talk to them to find out how they operate. Whichever way you go, it may influence how you proceed.

The trifecta - I chose quality and cost. I have a confirmed level of OCD but we also like to get good value for money. We are doing a lot of the build work ourselves, and that brings me onto the ICF topic ... We chose Nudura for one of the reasons @saveasteading points out The guys from Fell Partnership helped us get the first couple of rows in place for the ground floor. We did the rest and it took the two of us a week, followed by the concrete pour a few weeks later (piss poor planning on my part). For the more complex second floor, it took us about 3 weeks (more openings, slopes etc.) We, and the Fell Partnership guys were very impressed seeing as we had never handled the stuff before day 1 of the ground floor build. BENEFITS: Simple to work with. Quick. A lot of air tightness issues dealt with from the outset. Insulated (it's in the name). Once your foundations are in, you could have your 3 storeys built in under 2 months with good planning and weather.

Erm, the obvious thing for me is how you will get 5 loops of 60m each WITHOUT having joints in your UFH loops. Very recommended to have each loop as one continuous piece of pipe

Nailbiter, we also have a sloping site and lower floor is partially basemented. Will look forward to hearing more