BotusBuild

It is being used for backfill and other landscaping in the rest of the site

🙂 so it is a big job ( in my eyes at least)

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Then why am I being quoted £600 or more??

That will be removed No older than late 1980's There is 😀 Basically sockets in one side of the house. There is another MCB for the other side. It could be labled simply " sockets, right hand side"

I know that as part of an electrical safety check (in order to get an EICR) that our consumer unit will be checked. See pictures. Can a qualified electrician here tell me if this is likely to need to be changed?

and the table and chair legs will mark it 🙂

Not the best picture, but this is what it looks like once the box is properly set in the wall

Got any pictures Richard? Assuming these are going to be walked on (patio?) they are likely to get marked and scuffed after you have laid them anyway, so if the marks are relatively minor they are likely to "disappear" over time.

I am told that standard electric cable cannot be in contact with EPS. Fullstop. The only way to guarantee that is to run it through conduit. What is not obvious from the photos is that the final conduit runs the full length (and more) of that cut channel. Hope that helps

Several months ago on a thread I can no longer locate, I committed to donating the location to create a short video of installing conduit for running electric cable to sockets in EPS insulation, specifically in this case Nudura. Well, finally, I bought a roundtuit, and we have results. For those who don't know, if you are not using the low smoke insulated cable (at 20-30% more cost), then using conduit is the way to go. Why? If the cable heats up, it can melt the EPS which turns into a glass like substance. This in turn can then cut the insulation on the outside of the cable with potentially devastating consequences. First the video (sorry, can't seem to resize this): 20240519_162745.mp4 Link for the hot knife - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F8LFRCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No extra videos, just a few follow on picture of the conduit in place The sockets have since been cut further back into the EPS so the conduit sits flat

I've got 4 or 5 litres of D4 to get rid of if your interested. In Cornwall but can be in Reading

@Thorfun - would you mind messaging me to let me know what system you used and any gotcha's that someone should look out for. Just got to convince SWMBO that the pipe into the washing machine is coming from the mains 🙂

30 m2

With those picture I would say a simple T piece would suffice instead of the double set of pipe where the bath taps are going

@Hannah82w - do you have pictures of the controls that you propose to use for the bath and shower? They may help people to answer more fully. Where on the pipework fitted in the bathroom as shown at the moment would the shower controls and shower head be fitted?

One of the problems with building stuff onto existing properties is not knowing of hidden surprises. When this happens, adjustments maybe necessary and may involve unforeseen cost. Sorry to be the harbinger of some possible doom. But you need to be aware of this upfront so you can plan accordingly. You are going to have to take a balanced approach, and I think both you and your dad are right in wanting to approach the relevant people. You'll need to talk to both, find out what the lenders are prepared to lend, and what a builder is likely to charge. If you are handing it all over to someone to build and your funds are limited then you really need to consider a fixed price quote (Note: the builder will add a contingency figure into their quote as they will be taking on the risk to deliver the proposed extension). Obviously, if you are able to do any work yourself/ves this may help to reduce the overall cost. Whatever you do though, do not hand over money for work not completed. For materials, maybe on delivery is OK, but pay for the "doing" in installments e.g. foundations complete, walls complete, roof and windows installed, first fix, second fix, completion and snagging. Good luck. Don't be put off by what I've said, just be aware of it 🙂

I would love to try and do the skimming, but having just ordered 4 pallets of plasterboard (and that is not the final total) I think I will be calling someone in to do it especially as 260m2 of that plasterboard is on the ceilings - there ain't no way I'm going there especially with my shoulders now in the state they are from the build so far.

Do you mean buck ends? I ran out but had spare standard blocks left over, which I cut up. Set the blade depth on a circular saw to cut the notches in the sides. Bit messy, but does the job - Wear a mask and goggles 🙂

Thank you all ye Thespians - It seems it is nobler in the mind not to suffer the tape and joint of outrageous fortune but to take skimming tools against the bumpy boards, and by skimming, end them.

I bought one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F8LFRCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 It was £89 when I purchased it in Oct 2023

A bit like the clip together flooring. Interesting product/business idea

Ready to order plasterboard and see claims you can decorate straight onto the plasterboard, implying no need to do a plaster skim. Am I reading this right? And if so, then the main question (a la Shakespeare) is whether to skim or not. Pros and cons?

Which adapter should I get to connect the 20mm plastic conduit pipe to the socket metal back box? Male or Female? Logic says female. But logic has been wrong before.

For transparency - LZOH/LSZH is about 20-25% more expensive on a quick internet search

Just about to do this myself. Using metal boxes with conduit running through the EPS (Nudura in my case) then an adapter to hold the conduit to the metal box. The key thing is the cable must NOT touch the EPS.