BotusBuild

Done, same speeling error seen as above

Wow. That is all

Welcome back. Glad to hear you came through the depression - can be a difficult time. Good luck with the new project/s whatever they might be

@Jilly - already on the plans and designed for 🙂

Some years ago I listened to a talk about creating a green roof from recycled materials. It started with old carpets as the protection layer, and used crushed demolition materials mixed with top soil as the growing medium. I can't recall what they used as the edging to separate to the drainage stone from the greenery. I wonder if anyone on here has done something similar. What was your experience and would you do it again? I do also wonder if there would be any affect on BCO sign off when something else (Bauder) has been specified.

We just used B&M white matt (Turner&White) mixed 1:1, then 3 more coats on top unmixed. £10 for 10L Anyone want some free buckets?

Thanks, but what is shown in the photo is the "after" and is not shifting with just water and sponge. Looking for suggestions as to how to remove the afters.

Done that. What was left after is in the photo

Most of the mess is down to us on door steps, so I'm not putting this on the render company. They taped and covered well. Most of the dirt is accumulated over the last 18 months, with a little bit of render. "Some render" in the OP may have been misinterpreted 🙂. Sorry.

We have suffered some render getting on those nice new aluminium window frames and cills. I'm looking for a gentle way to remove this causing no or as little damage as possible. I've seen there are cement removal sprays - would these do the job and if so have you used one that you would recommend. Is there another better way without having to scrape, sand and respray?

What type of joists do you have? Solid, i-joist, web joist (asin picture above)? Do you have open access to the joists still or will you have to remove plasterboard etc. to fit the ducting? The former we all hope

What's the significance, if any, of the different coloured crosses? You could consider rigid ducting (125-200mm as required) from the loft to manifolds from which you run flexible ducts at 75mm diameter to the various vents. Obviously different manifolds for exhaust and supply.

Just been through this. Bought part of a field that was on one title deed. As part of the buying process, the part we bought will be on a new title, once the Land Registry get their act together 🤣

I have a blog on here outlining some experiences of our build with Nudura. Real self builders here. All gone pretty well and very pleased with it. The imperial/metric issue Nick talks about above is a little annoying but we have dealt with it. We have the outside rendered directly to the EPS using Nudura recommended render system. We are also partly stone cladding and partly wood cladding, and will end up with a couple of "steps" to contend with. Overall, I would build with it again

Sorry, I thought I'd put that in - South east Cornwall/Plymouth area

In need of someone to install screed, about 130m2, does anyone here know of a good company to do this? TIA

We have a 250mm 135m2 insulated raft, with UFH loops at 200mm cc's. A Vaillant 7kW ASHP was switched on 10 days ago and we are already at a comfortable 17.5oC. UFH loops are tied to the A393 mesh. Why 250mm? SE specified, has retaining ICF walls with an internal ICF wall. By the time I'd thinned the slab in some areas, I figured it would just be quicker and easier to mesh a single thickness slab. Good luck with your build

Screwed into 9mm hardwood ply

Same as the one you can see clearly at the front - metal clip with rubber

Agreed, but the similarity of the principle still holds 🙂

Some things put in our plant room recently

Connor, Glycol is the solution to this. 1. It is proven to work. Nit only in HPs, but also in the millions of cars on the road. 2. Once mixed and filled you should not need to drain and refill except during major heating system changes which should be very rare if the system is installed well in the first place. 3. If the system drains via the frost protection, you may end up with a non functioning HP at the very time of year the building needs heat.

I'll add mine. Hands on self building with trades brought in when necessary (groundworks, pouring concrete, erecting steel frame fitting windows, GRP roof, electrics, ASHP so far) 270m2 Costs to date (includes professional services and materials, labour as above, NOT plot, or our time, and fuel costs - 4 years@400 miles per week): £249,000 Budgeted costs to come: £110,000 Projected cost /m2: £1,320