BotusBuild

What's the significance, if any, of the different coloured crosses? You could consider rigid ducting (125-200mm as required) from the loft to manifolds from which you run flexible ducts at 75mm diameter to the various vents. Obviously different manifolds for exhaust and supply.

Just been through this. Bought part of a field that was on one title deed. As part of the buying process, the part we bought will be on a new title, once the Land Registry get their act together 🤣

I have a blog on here outlining some experiences of our build with Nudura. Real self builders here. All gone pretty well and very pleased with it. The imperial/metric issue Nick talks about above is a little annoying but we have dealt with it. We have the outside rendered directly to the EPS using Nudura recommended render system. We are also partly stone cladding and partly wood cladding, and will end up with a couple of "steps" to contend with. Overall, I would build with it again

Sorry, I thought I'd put that in - South east Cornwall/Plymouth area

In need of someone to install screed, about 130m2, does anyone here know of a good company to do this? TIA

We have a 250mm 135m2 insulated raft, with UFH loops at 200mm cc's. A Vaillant 7kW ASHP was switched on 10 days ago and we are already at a comfortable 17.5oC. UFH loops are tied to the A393 mesh. Why 250mm? SE specified, has retaining ICF walls with an internal ICF wall. By the time I'd thinned the slab in some areas, I figured it would just be quicker and easier to mesh a single thickness slab. Good luck with your build

Screwed into 9mm hardwood ply

Same as the one you can see clearly at the front - metal clip with rubber

Agreed, but the similarity of the principle still holds 🙂

Some things put in our plant room recently

Connor, Glycol is the solution to this. 1. It is proven to work. Nit only in HPs, but also in the millions of cars on the road. 2. Once mixed and filled you should not need to drain and refill except during major heating system changes which should be very rare if the system is installed well in the first place. 3. If the system drains via the frost protection, you may end up with a non functioning HP at the very time of year the building needs heat.

I'll add mine. Hands on self building with trades brought in when necessary (groundworks, pouring concrete, erecting steel frame fitting windows, GRP roof, electrics, ASHP so far) 270m2 Costs to date (includes professional services and materials, labour as above, NOT plot, or our time, and fuel costs - 4 years@400 miles per week): £249,000 Budgeted costs to come: £110,000 Projected cost /m2: £1,320

@SteamyTea see this - https://www.co2meter.com/en-uk/blogs/news/dangers-of-co2-what-you-need-to-know?srsltid=AfmBOorKFZDWt11eb2LlY5H9o5lyfIzqouj0eAm_Xc8cbAPzbeZsuZ-F#co2-dangers In a domestic environment I guess the issue is for basements where the "heavy" gas cannot naturally escape particularly if used as a bedroom

Welcome to the site, and well done for taking the decision to demolish and rebuild - that will remove a lot of unpleasant surprises in the long term. Most of them will now be in the short term as you find out what's in the ground 😉 Good you've got tradespeople to call on which will shortcut a lot of research time that many here undertake (myself included). Crack on and good luck

I did plan for UFH both floors, but do wonder what will be on when given the way our house is built. We are getting the BUS grant, the HP is installed and working, but the UFH is not yet connected upstairs. Maybe this a way round it for you. Put the manifold into a cupboard and just isolate it 😁

Yes, just had mine installed

Just a plain old gabion (2x1x1m) with a 4 inch concrete slab poured on top with a condensate pipe embedded. The ground behind and to the side will be backfilled so it will be more at ground level in time. The side of the gabion you can see here will be th start of a pathway down the side of the house which is partially buried.

I do intend to run the heating 24x7 with weather compensation. Indeed that is how it is now running, while the 250mm slab gets warmed up. The room thermostat will be there to control when the heating pump comes on and the actuators open on the loops. Currently all actuators are manually opened, but will be switched back to Auto at a later date. We elected to go for a buffer tank setup so that if we wanted to zone this downstairs (bedrooms etc) into separate zones by adding extra thermostats we could do so without major plumbing rework.

Do the ones I was subjected to during the week count? 🙂, and thanks for your kind offer to be on the end of a phone. My electrician did this via a switch, so the installer was able to commission today. Over the weekend or early next week I'll swap that out for a thermostat. They've set all the actuators to manual (open) on the one manifold we have loops connected to, and we've deactivated the hot water and its setup to gradually changing the flow temperature over the next week. All the loops are embedded in the foundation slab (250mm) which sits on top of Jackon Atlas insulation (300mm if I recall correctly) which has been in for 4+ years so should already be fairly dry. Next week I'll be getting a temporary kitchen and bathroom setup for when we camp out there in February (long story) so both the heating and the hot water are going to be tested. Pics next week if I remember.

Thank you all, and apologies for being short. It was a long frustrating day.

Our groundworker stripped the topsoil from where the temp track was going, we laid terram, and then had crushed hardcore (50-75mm) spread on top. MOT1 tends to be a little dearer

It is what it is. I need a thermostat in there right now. I need answers to my questions, not more questions. Sorry that your response may have factual info in it, but right now, none of that helps me.

I have been left in a jam - I need your help to try to be in a position for the plumber to commission the ASHP etc. tomorrow. I bought the wrong type of thermostats and now want to make sure that what I can get at short notice (SF or Toolstation) will do the job. Setup: Wet UFH with actuators wired back to a wiring centre. All one zone so just the one thermostat controlling the lot. The wiring centre has four connections for the thermostat - L, N, a symbol with an arrow, and another one with what looks like a dial. The thermostat would appear to need to be able to send a signal to the wiring centre and my electrician has told me those latter two connections should connect to the thermostat on "clean" or "clear" contacts, and he also described them as being volt free. Does anyone have any recommendations if the following is not suitable I have found this at SF - Honeywell Home DT4 1-Channel Wired Room Thermostat. From the terrible installation manual I see this. Would the A/B <-> T1/T2 be volt free?