BotusBuild

I've put conduits in to run extra cables from plant room on ground floor to roof level for things like solar and aerial cabling. All have draw chords ready to pull cable

Spinny, The pipes will most likely all be push fit. It might be a fight to get them apart, depending on how your builders fixed them in the ground (hopefully they didn't set in concrete). If you do get them apart check the rubber seals are not damaged before trying to re-use them - if they are, then easier to replace the whole fitting fo peace of mind. You will likely need to do some pipe cutting to be able to move the trap/gulley closer to the Y-branch. Lots of measuring and checking and imagery in your head as to how it will all fit back together. Take you time with the refitting and it will all slot into place. Don't beat yourself up if you end up having to recut pipes a couple of times

Three things that might help: 1. Some photos of what you have currently (the as built situation) 2. An index of what those numbers in the diagrams are (for example 8. Insulation) 3. An indication of precisely which pieces you are expecting to get fabricated

Err, yeah. Asking for recommendations before making a choice 🙂

Are the bulbs replaceable in those?

But today we have YouTube to get trained. (Dons tin hat and exist stage left)

The three must have criteria are the subject line 😉 We have an open plan area that has a 100 slope. We need tilting downlights, something with about 900 total - 450 each way. We know this will only be available in 1 plane (unless you know otherwise) Looking for recommendations- thanks

Marc, Thorough write up. Well done for taking the time to do this. Sounds like Samsung have chosen to rename what the majority of ASHP manufacturers refer to as Weather Compensation (WC) to Waterlaw. The settings you describe are the details of what that majority refer to as a WC curve (strictly a few straight lines).

Thank you all. May go for the concrete sealer for now and properly floor it if it gets turned into a bedroom later down the line. FYI- Nick, it's heated so things'll be warm. I'll save the expensive epoxy for MY garage 😁

We have a large room that will initially be used as our attic (as we don't have one). It will have a Cemfloor screed poured next week, and we want to stop the dust that might/will occur from general foot traffic. I'm thinking of using something like a garage floor paint, or possibly an even more resilient resin or epoxy resin coating. Any recommendations for what to use? Seen this in FB advert land - resincoat.co.uk - anyone used it?

I know what I would be doing and it doesn't involve a repair of any kind. If the installer/manufacturer insists let them do it on the proviso that they fully understand that if the repairs are not satisfactory then a replacement will be installed instead.

22mm to a hot a cold manifold in the plant room, then 15mm to each room/item. Two pairs (H&C) to each bathroom, a pair to the kitchen, a pair to the utility. Just spent 5 weeks camping out, and the rain shower had plenty of water.

Just what we did for our sewage treatment plant

At last, I'm tall 😁

I'd have to keep ducking down to use those, and I'm only 5'9"! Neat idea though

What we had to do for ground floor because it was going to be a retaining wall part way round (horizontal and vertical). But the SE insisted on extending the horizontal rebar through the top floor as well

An update (after the fact) Plastering finished in the open plan area this coming week (by others) DONE (see above) Remainder of stone cladding arrives and work begins to get the most inaccessible (high) parts put up before the scaffold gets taken away - this means cladding two 7m x 2m wide walls. It arrived and I did get the stonework done on the high parts Plumbing pipework ready for ASHP installation DONE Gabion basket and pad for ASHP to be installed on DONE Mist coat and first coat on plaster (SWMBO is at the ready) DONE Begin fitting upstairs UFH (Not done) Front door being fitted (January) by others DONE Take 3-4 days off for Xmas DONE and appreciated ASHP installation (January) by others, that will allow for hot water and the downstairs UFH to be available ... DONE Fit a temporary bathroom ... DONE Fit out utility room as temp kitchen ...DONE Its been a comfortable month in the house (in fact we are staying an extra few days while it is cold overnight!). We fitted an over bath shower, and done a lot of other work since. and that'll be part of the next blog entry.

So, no solids to move? If so, then a 100mm pipe could give you a better fall than a 150mm pipe if I have visualised this correctly

@nod, @Nickfromwales, Clarifying Q. You tank before tiling? Can the tiles be applied directly to the tanking or do you need something else (tile backer board) in between? FYI - I was going to do just backer board then tiles, but reading your above tales, I now want to know from the best, what is the best build up (from studwork). This is not for a wetroom, just a bath and shower tray area of bathroom and ensuite Thanks in advance

Talk of plaster implies internal reveals? We have plaster board and plaster right up to the frames, no gap.

My personal opinion, mainly based on the term "do it right first time", is to do small tweaks that don't cost a lot but make it usable in the way you want it. Start saving, and in the meantime think up the options for where things can be placed taking into account where things like gas, water and electrics are currently located, and how easy to move them to where you might want them. Settle on a design, get quotes, then save more, or re-design to get within your budget 😉 Finally, move ahead to install the open plan design of your dreams

Would nylon washers be better? Smoother to twist and no chance of corrosion.

We have about 130m2 of foundation slab that 1) needs to levelled and 2) needs to be raised by an average of 55mm. The foundation slab already contains the UFH pipes so there would be no intermediate insulation layer - the screed can be poured directly on the slab as far as I am concerned. I have read that Cemfloor can be used in this manner and the min thickness is 25mm for such a bonded application. All the installers I have contacted want a membrane installed first and I have pushed back quoting from a document they sent me as part of their quotation packs. Their also asking for an edging strip to be installed as well, but this screed will sit up against the EPS of Nudura ICF, which surely itself will absorb any "movement". Awaiting their response, but I would love to hear if anyone else has applied Cemfloor just as a levelling screed with no membrane between it and the foundation slab.

I guess I'm going to be cutting away the bottom edge of all the plasterboard I've installed 🙂

Phew, I answered correctly