scottishjohn

that will require a large compressor and I do not have power on site other than a generator --so will go with chemical attack first

the reply form SIKA techn ical is yes but it might take a few applictions to take it off in layers so we,ll give it a try and report results

yes that would , non local so costing will be high and i,m already worried i will run out money ,

I don.t know if chemstrip would work or if it would eat the granite away as well or if it will take more than just staing off great if i could just paint it on and let it softenen al the old ceoment render and then wire brush it off I will speak to "sika " and see

I had this problem with my 40 tube array my solution was to put a motorised valve in system which opened when you neede flow -eg circulation pump turmed on heat is always going to rise so will start a themo syhpon system on its own and I found the one way valve not good enough to stop it totally it always bled a little - so fitted motorised valve problem cured

on one outside wall of the house there was a lean to pantry at sometime this was hard cement plastered and tiled the lean to has gone ,but looking to remove the remains of the cement render from the granite walls its real bugger to chisel off and I will never get it all off all over thegranite walls are not smooth in anyway

that statement sounds suspect sounds like you hiding something If you have not increased floor area-then whats the problem ? If however it is obvious that you are intending to make it habitable --and not on the plan --thats a different story bottom line is you let her in or upset her and have problems from here on with every little detail change --she will talk to BC if you make waves

only if you could get it back and it would be in rubles --so who knows where the exchange will go If they will give you 20% in dollars --maybe ok -but who knows you could get it back?

not a chance with current planning rules -even if it were feasable --thats why i say planning blockage for wind need be binned but that would also need alot of upgrades in the grid inplaces where the wind is my plan to have 30 acres of solar panels on the jetty plot was going fine and I had a company who would give me a 25 year deal on renting the ground --but after checking the grid transformers +power lines it was found it could not take it without upgrading -and no one wanted to pay for it

supposedly plenty of gas in the e solway firth -but has not been developed cos it is ours -- morcamba bay gas field has been on line since 1985 and the solway is very close

this war is surely the sign to unblock planning applications for wind farms and tidal dams like the swansea bay project ,so we will not as reliant on gas sooner and accelerate towards a zero emissions we have to go there anyway - and yes prices will go up -- making me even more worried about my project costs and If will be able to afford to do it. anybody know an oligark who wants to fund my hpuse and can have it when I die .LOL I don,t see housing prices going up at all for a long time , maybe could make plots cheaper ?

the only thing I can say comparing durisol to isotex is that the durisol blocks are a little variable in the thickness --so decide at start which side you want perfectly flat and accept there could be a variance in the other side of maybe 0-5mm block to block - no big deal but something to think about and if hard plastering no problem at all on inside or indeed for a parge coat on the outside if you build it flat on the inside , then batton and PB for DIY I think both systems are good if you going to be stop start and if worried about bonding of one layer of concrete to the next -- just drop some rebar in where you stop . I am not saying anything bad about poly systems as you could do the same with them if you wanted ,and you would only pour one storey at a time with those ,even if blocks are built to eves in one go . even poly systems require to be have a water proof layer of butyl type stuff rolled on if building below ground for a basement all the systems work if done correctly of that I am sure

my answer is simpler and cheaper I have a small 4kw generator which I can connect to the house --turning off the incoming mains first of course feed it back in the ring main and it will run every thin but the elec cooker over 30 years never had an outage more than a few hours and watch for street lights coming back on in the town

and which one would you use for your own builds ?

that makes more sense=other wise lots would be doing it

diesel gen and batteries + solar pv +generator? how big was the pv array + storage lead acid batteries?

this is the idea for a thermal store https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKb-lKuLlpQ swop solar thermal fro extra input like oil or gas and top postion where they have the oil or gas burner have the pv heater any commments

ok wrong terminology sorry

very interesting thread I have also been considering which way to go when i eventually get started and although I have ASHP in current house and was considering this as first choice maybe that is wrong now but i would not be fitting a combi ,but a system boiler be it lpg or oil and a UVC as space will not be a problem If I go PV as well then alot of that can be used to keep UVC hot as I did with my solar water panels in this house and of course save some elec as well that tank had a solar coil and was also had underfloor coil and third coil at top for hot water supply- any heat made by what ever means went to the UVC and sent to where ever required this time If go that way it would be a taller tank to get even better stratification and that brings on the next thoughts -how far off are we from pv panels +battery prices being a viable choice -if elec grid connection is going to be 15 -20K diesel/heating oil generator ,for some winter top up of batteries as well all thoughts are welcome

I just wonder when or if it will ever pay to go off grid -if it ever will -considering mains connection will £15K+

If you are going to dig a hole and fill with hardcore --just add some cement and make them concrete +level them up at that stage when concrete is wet -then blocks -no need for a wacker ? then

In the states and other places you can get 16ft long plasterboard -so they put it on sideways - and quite often just stick it --so no screw holes to fill

better make sure you get your stud work right EG make sure all studs are straight --that will be your first mission as CLS is notorious for not being straight these days or bowed in its length -go to bulders merchants and pick some up and look down its length If you want straight then use gyproc steel studding for stud walls

the real question is how soft is your garden - will it sink and how much will the floor flex if you skimp on supports nd how big a concrete pad under each block- or no pads just set on earth ?

and this isi a load of crap yes closed cell will not pass water and it is stuck to sarking so obviously there can be no condensation on sarking or osb sheeting - and if its a cold roof there should be ventilation at the eaves and or up the cavity wall your batons and roof paper on top of sarking gives ventilation to outside anyway read the small print in any house survey and it will exclude any areas that cannot be seen without dis mantling any thing